SuperFlex Subframe bushes ?

[macspring]

Can you post what you think of them once you get to drive the car with them fitted ?

Thanks.

[caterpillar]

some people did have some issue with noise from the subframe bushes.... did they use the white grease who was in the packagekit..??

[Fat Audi 80]

No noise from my Supaflex subframe bushes. I used the enclosed grease provided. Perfect fit, noise, excellent body control. Very happy.

[Zeus]

Mine don't have any grease supplied with them...
Should there be grease with enclosed with them? Mine are packed in a bag, no grease...

No noise from my Supaflex subframe bushes. I used the enclosed grease provided. Perfect fit, noise, excellent body control. Very happy.

[Zeus]

Sure, but i'm also doing new bushes in the A-arms and fitting new droplinks to ARB, CV boots, Meyle HD strut mounts, engine-,transmission-and rear diffmounts, so it will probably be a combined influence of all the parts together.
I'm hoping for some good improvement

Can you post what you think of them once you get to drive the car with them fitted ?

Thanks.

[Mr.Crossfire]

Subframe bushes do not need grease, as there is no rotational movement between center collet & the bushing.

[Zeus]

So one of my superflex kits came with 3 shorter steel tubes and one longer one.

The other set came with 2 long steel tubes and two shorter ones, the longer ones are for the straight bushes, the shorter ones for the camfered ones..

So my question is: Can I fit the shorter steel tube in the straight (taller) bushes instead of the longer steel tube which normally is supplied with the set?

Or should I order a new tube from superflex?

[Zeus]

So I have fitted all the suspension parts and have done about 1500 kilometers since everything was fitted. I still have to fit the engine mounts and some other engine related stuff...
Things fitted so far:
-Subframe bushes front/rear by superflex
-A-arm bushes front/rear by powerflex (old type without any grooves)
-rear diff center bush by powerflex
-transmission mounts and rear diff mounts by meyle
-new strut mounts front and rear meyle hd (green ones)
-new shock absorbers front and rear Bilstein Sport
-new front anti roll bar bushes by superflex
-new rear ARB bushes OEM Audi
-new drop links to ARB front by QH
-new rear diff seals and new oil OEM Audi
-replaced worn bellows on front ball joints and steering rods and replaced grease
-replaced worn bellows and grease on rear droplinks
-new cv-joints and grease all round by Meyle and Febi-bilstein
-new exhaust system from catalyst Fox 70mm 304 stainless steel
-new paint on subframes, driveshafts, springs, struts, steering rods,...

So one of my superflex kits came with 3 shorter steel tubes and one longer one.

The other set came with 2 long steel tubes and two shorter ones, the longer ones are for the straight bushes, the shorter ones for the camfered ones..

So my question is: Can I fit the shorter steel tube in the straight (taller) bushes instead of the longer steel tube which normally is supplied with the set?

Or should I order a new tube from superflex?

I sent an E-mail to Superflex asking if they would send me a new tube, to replace the wrongly packaged one I had in my set. However, they never replied, perhaps because I did not buy the set directly from them, but that shouldn't matter anyways, so pretty ****** customer care as far as I'm concerned... I ended up making myself a new one on a lathe from some type of stainless I had lying around...

Can you post what you think of them once you get to drive the car with them fitted ?

Thanks.

Well, with all the parts I replaced, steering has become a lot more direct (mainly because there was some slack in the connection between steering links and steering cylinder on my car). The bilsteins and new bushes have firmed up the car quite nicely, if you drive on roads with lots of pits or really bad condition, it's probably too stiff and will get annoying. However, the setup is less stiff then my brothers 2004 factory stock BMW 330d with M sports package (firmer factory suspension, different seats,...). The S2 now feels sporty but certainly isn't extreme. To me this is ideal, as I find my brothers car a bit too firm for normal road use, but ideal for motorway use (which is where he mostly drives ).

To sum up: it makes the car sporty, but not too stiff for cross country driving, your regular bad road or occasional dirt road.

About the new exhaust, it sounds slightly deeper than the original, but my original had a hole in it near the end piece, so it probably already sounded slightly deeper. But again, the change isn't drastic, it won't turn your car into a tuned Honda.
However, it doesn't come with a bracket near the catalysts (the original one does), so I cut this bracket of the original exhaust and welded it on the new exhaust in the right place. You can probably fit the exhaust without doing this, as it weighs a bit less than the original one, but I like things nice and sturdy . The original exhaust is also made from some type of stainless steel until the first damper, so the bracket shouldn't rust either.

Hope this helps

Btw: My car tends to go to the side of the road when I let the steering wheel go, nothing drastic, but it tends to make a slight curve to the right. Does anybody else experience this? Is this typical for a Quattro car?

Regards.

[andy10v]

Btw: My car tends to go to the side of the road when I let the steering wheel go, nothing drastic, but it tends to make a slight curve to the right. Does anybody else experience this? Is this typical for a Quattro car?

Regards.

Have you had the car aligned since you replaced all the parts?

Also if the car is aligned straight and the road is cambered for water run off from the centre it will drift to the downhill side of the road, you can check this be driving on the other side and see if it goes the other way (on a suitable bit of road of course )

[Zeus]

Yes, the car has been aligned, the car already went to the side before I changed the parts, I always thought it did this because of the slack in the steering which is now solved. The car now does it less than before the refit, so slack in the links did make it worse.
Perhaps it could be due to uneven thread wear on the tires? (inner side of the tires has less thread than the outer side, they are worn this way because of the slack between the steering links, which is solved now. Basically, one side of the tire resembles a slick, while the other side still has about 5mm of profile left).

It tends to go to the right about 30cm over a distance of about 50-70 meters, which seems a bit much for water run off. It also varies with the amount of power that's going to the wheels.