Right hand Pull

**Mikes2** · 17 February 2006, 10:13

After an alignment the steering wheel should be straight. If not, they've not done it correctly.

Check tyre pressures and consider swapping the tyres around.

**Azman** · 17 February 2006, 16:11

THats what I thought, But their machine that does all the measurements was showing the correct settings. I will try swapping the tyres about a bit to see if that helps any but other than that it looks like a new set of tyres may be needed after I get the alkignment checked again

**Keeper of The Kitten** · 17 February 2006, 17:40

You can get correct alignment but have the steering wheel not straight! If the track rods are adjusted long on one side and short on the other, but the total length is right, the settings will appear correct.

Similarly the wheel can be out of position on the column but the rack could be straight ahead (less likely I think).

Ideally a car needs rocking backwards and forwards to settle everything. If the rack was self centreing it wouldn't be a problem, but I don't think it is. Should probably have the engine running during setup too, so that the power steering is functioning.

Is the camber the same on both sides? If it isn't, there will be more centreing torque going through one strut than the other (because one wheel will effectively have the centre of contact at the ground in a slightly different place to the other one, by virtue of the way the tyre is sitting more than anything else). I don't know if it would notice much on a road car? It would certainly make the car pull though if it was a big difference, but otherwise I am unsure.

Definitely worth swapping the tyres around, you'd be surprised what difference that can sometimes make.

__MDC__

**Azman** · 17 February 2006, 19:01

Cheers Keeper,

I will have a play with the wheel swapping over the next few days to see if that helps. If not I will make a journey back to get it rechecked.

I have the alignment print off with me. Shame I cannot scan it and post it for you to see. Here is the figures anyway
Specs
Front - Camber - Left = -1.40 Deg -1.2 to -0.2
Right = -2.12 deg -1.2 to -0.2

Toe - Left = 1.9 to start - 0.9 after set 0.0 to 1.1
Right = -3.7 to start - 0.9 after 0.0 to 1.1

Rear - Camber - left = - 0.11 deg -1.15 to -0.15
right = -0.41 deg - 1.15 to -0.15

toe - left = -1.0 deg after set = 1.3 deg 0.5 to 1.6
right= =1.0 deg after set = 1.0 deg 0.5 to 1.6

Not that this makes any sense to me at all. But after they had adjusted and they had set the steering wheel straight all was within factory sets except the camber which they cannot adjust without a camber bolt.

I am at the moment running with slightly smaller bolts through the carriers as I have yet to get some sleves so that they fit the 3B carriers or drill the strut holes for the larger 3B bolts which i the reason for the camber, but the right hand pull is still confusing

**Azman** · 17 February 2006, 19:03

That doesnt look right now. the figures at the end of each line with the 'to' in the midle are the manufacturers specs. Sorry I did have it laid out as a table but everything has been bunched together when posted

**PeterS** · 17 February 2006, 21:12

Azman:

A proper 4 wheel alignment is complete only after the technician ALSO performs a road test...if the job was done correctly, the steering wheel should be properly centered and the car should drive straight if you were to let go of the wheel.. If the road has a lot of taper (crown) then there might be a _slight_ pull to the lower side, but that's it.

**Keeper of The Kitten** · 17 February 2006, 21:33

Clearly there is more camber on the right front (greater negative camber), I am not sure where the axis of strut rotation would intersect the ground but there is a difference. I am still not sure if it would be as serious on a road car as it is with a race car.

I am in full agreement with Peter here, the steering wheel should be aligned straight ahead within reasonable tolerances (I hate a wheel that is off centre), and it makes sense to perform a road test on a flat road with minimal camber to test the effects of self alignment.

Aaron, do you mean the steering wheel is actually not centred or are you referring to a pulling effect that requires steering input to correct? Like Peter I assume that if you hold the wheel straight the car is steering to the right, which would signify incorrect centreing of the wheel. This would also suggest that the car will drive straight with your hands off the wheel but the steering wheel is not straight. However if the car is actually pulling right and you need to forcibly steer it to the left to correct it there is clearly still something of a problem.

__MDC__

**nothelle300** · 17 February 2006, 22:38

hi just had mine tracked today and when the set it up the sort of lock the steering wheel in the centre to stop it moving!The front wheel are toeing in 1.5 degrees and the rear 2.5 degrees is this somewhere near correct!Car feels alot better anyways!

**CP951** · 18 February 2006, 04:35

Azman
Your front camber is off. Theres too much difference between left and right, ideally should be kept the same even if both are not within the factory spec. Your car should be running to the left. Is the road surface you tested on flat and straight enough? Its also often difficult to judge whether the steering wheel is actually straight when the car is pulling to one side. I often find the steering wheel straightens out once the camber is corrected. Its also worthwhile doing a quick "caster" check yourself, just get a piece of string long enough and measure the distance between the wheel centres. There shouldnt be much difference between left and right. The caster is not adjustable but that will at least tell you whether car car is straight or not. In any event it looks like you need a realignment.

**~~Corey~~** · 18 February 2006, 07:20

had my S6 aligned at my local Audi dealer's, after 3 hours of trying to figure out how to align it they took it for a test drive. Car is now spot on.

**Azman** · 18 February 2006, 07:53

Well I will go back to them on monday and see wht they can do.

With the wheel straight it drives to the right and quite some at that.
The camber will hopefully be sorted when I sort the bolt sleves out which I should get done this week hopefully along with alot of other stuff.

Cheers Guys I will keep you informed.

**Mikes2** · 18 February 2006, 20:30

These figures are nowhere near where they should be. Both sides should be identical and in the middle of the spec when possible

Think the specs are on http://20v.org

**Keeper of The Kitten** · 18 February 2006, 20:57

Something else which is very important is that you have decent bushes fitted (as in new or uprated), because a lot of these settings will be meaningless if the suspension bushes are worn - this could potentially explain the camber variation.

__MDC__

**Azman** · 19 February 2006, 08:40

Keeper - I take it you mean the wishbone bushes. Mine apear okay with little/no movement in them at all. I have just replaced the top mounts on the front to Greens. My only concern with the wishbones is the bottom ball joint on the passengers side which has a rip in the rubber. Other than that all is and should be fine. Other than the bolts of course. Unless I have a slightly bent wishbone on one side?????? All apeared okay and straight.

There are some wishbones on the bay for Â£15 each inc bushes. Does anyone know if they will fit the CQ20 or the S2???

If they do they may be worth getting as they come with bushes and so I could replace all the parts at the same time all round.

Right hand Pull

Right hand Pull

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