Loose Wheel Bearing Bolt

[AAH!]

I think I got to the bottom of the groaning and vibration on the o/s wheel, but not until after the n/s wheel started to make a scraping noise when turning right and I noticed that grooves were being cut into the disk

When investigating the scraping noise I took off the n/s wheel and found that the disk had about 10mm of side to side play and the caliper was touching the disk!!!

It seems that when the front wheel bearings were fitted 3 weeks ago the garage didn't fully tighten the big bolt that goes through the hub, the wheel bearing, hub carrier and into the drive shaft. B'stards.

The o/s wheel only needed 3/4 of turn to tighten it, but the o/s need about 5 turns. A bit worrying as I had just blasted up the M1 the day before at 120 and visions of the wheel coming off came to mind.

I found a local garage who checked with a VAG dealership and the bolts have now been tightened to 160nm plus a quarter turn, but I have just checked a workshop manual and it seems that they should actually be tightened to 200nm plus a quarter turn. Can anyone confirm what the actual torque should be for these bolts on a 1995 RS2.

All the groaning, vibration and scraping has disappeared and the car feels far better.

Thanks ... Angus

[4WheelDrifter]

The settings I have are:

M14 Bolt - 120Nm +90° (1/4 turn)
M16 Bolt - 200Nm +90° (1/4 turn)

So your workshop manual tallies with mine.

[s2dude]

I think I got to the bottom of the groaning and vibration on the o/s wheel, but not after the n/s wheel started to make a scraping noise when turning right and noticed that grooves were being cut into the disk

When investigating the scraping noise I took off the n/s wheel and found that the disk had about 10mm of side to side play and the caliper was touching the disk!!!

It seems that when the front wheel bearings were fitted 3 weeks ago the garage didn't fully tighten the big bolt that goes through the hub, the wheel bearing, hub carrier and into the drive shaft. B'stards.

The o/s wheel only needed 3/4 of turn to tighten it, but the o/s need about 5 turns. A bit worrying as I had just blasted up the M1 the day before at 120 and visions of the wheel coming off came to mind.

I found a local garage who checked with a VAG dealership and the bolts have now been tightened to 160nm plus a quarter turn at , but I have just checked a workshop manual and it seems that they should actually be tightened to 200nm plus a quarter turn. Can anyone confirm what the actual torque should be for these bolts on a 1995 RS2.

All the groaning, vibration and scraping has disappeared and the car feels far better.

Thanks ... Angus

For your car I believe it is 200 NM + a 90 degree turn

I put this onto mine when I did the bearing last week......it takes quite a tweak on a big breaker bar!!!

Also.......DONT FORGET you must fit NEW BOLTS//

They are stretch bolts and the idiots that did yours at the garage have already stretched them....(but not enough!)

Really dangerous to risk using the same ones as they have lost a lot of tensile strength once tightened then loosened.....

[AAH!]

Thanks guys.

I will order some new bolts and get them fitted.

Angus

[Graham]

Jesus , as i posted last week, the wheel bearings rely on that bolt being tight as if it comes loose there is nothing to stop the rotating part of the hub coming out as the bearing is not held in with a circlip, just compression induced interferance, the grinding could be the driveshaft touching the hub as that can be pulled into the hub by the bearing.