Originally posted by s2dude
wheel bearing setup pix?
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Well my first design of the puller used M16 mild steel stud bar and they just managed it, so Fine M20 high tensile will be more than enough to pull out the tightest bearing, using ordinary ring spanners (30mmAF). Another pointer is to maybe put 2 nuts on the back side and use them as locking nuts with a socket and breaker bar to react against the car body 30mm AF deep reach is ideal.Last edited by Graham; 18 August 2006, 14:50.Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein -
As for fitting the new bearing, i advise you clean out the rust in the hub with a light polish up with some fine emery as the rust will increase the interference and not give a true solid mounting surface. Use the second lot of mounting discs made (74 for the back or 81 for the front)
First gently tap with a copper or brass dolly the bearing just into the housing so it is entered (before it is torqued the bearing has 0.005mm interference which is fook all), assemble the pulling kit so it looks like the pic below using the discs mentioned above, and pull it together watching constantly that the bearing is going in square, if it does coggle to one side slightly, gently tap the disc not the bearing on the highest point to bring it in square, once it has entered in more than 10 mm it cannot coggle over anyways and will only go in true.
Wind it together and rebuild.
As discussed earlier on another thread the design, although works well relies purely on the compression given by tightening of the bolt to the correct torque to hold the bearing in, THIS IS VITAL if it is not tightened enough the bearing can and will come out complete with hub disc and wheel and drag the driveshaft into the hub destroying them both, only the calliper would prevent total catastrophy as it will not allow the disc to move off center too far. In my opinion Audi should still have the added safety of a circlip for engineered in idiot proofness, as the torquing of the bolt squeezes the 2 inner races against one another and forces the balls against the outer race expanding it to a 0.04mm interference with the hub bore locking it inAttached FilesEverything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert EinsteinComment
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I also advise that to be completely sure you dont damage the new bearing, use the 66mmOD or 72mmOD disc on the inside of the new bearing with some 16mm screwed rod and washers on the rotating part of the hub to pull it into the bearing, this will eliminate the chance of popping the inner inboard race out of the new bearing.Last edited by Graham; 18 August 2006, 14:51.Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert EinsteinComment
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Originally posted by jases2Guys could someone please confirm that the rear wheel bearing set up shown here is the same on the Avant ABY. Thanks I found this thread very helpful
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Im pretty sure they are the same mate.
I got my rear set from Eurocarparts... @ £26 per side (full kits )
and fronts from GSF. v@ 22 per side (bearing ONLY!)Last edited by s2dude; 3 September 2006, 17:25.Comment
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also has anyone got the part number for an Avant ABY rear wheel bearing?
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