BTDT for top mount change

[s2driveruk]

I have the dreaded knock which i am guessing is the top mount on its way out. I've got bilsteins and H&R's on so with a shorter spring and from memory when the car is off the ground there is no tension in the spring which would suggest i could drop the strut without the need to use a spring compression thingy to avoid it taking me out

However, anyone got a BTDT on how to change a stock (blue) top mount and replace - sure it can't be too difficult can it?

Cheers
David

[iain1067]

You may still need spring compressors, i am assuming that the strut splits in two parts like they do on the 90q 20v, if so then unbolt them half way up, undo the track rod end (decent splitter needed not a fork type but a screw type) you will need a 19mm cranked ring spanner, allen key to stop the shock turning and also when it's out a special slooted nut tool to undo the locking collar, if you have the right tools then it's 45mins a side.


iain

[Ross]

David,

When this was done on my car there wasn't any need for spring compressors. That was with new springs. The only hassle is that funky VAG tool you need to unbolt the top, though I think you can improvise if you have a good set of tools... don't quote me on that one though

Other than that, IIRC it was a fairly simple procedure... famous last words an' all that when you planning on doing this?

Ross

[Jas11n]

Easy enough, we use an deep offset 17mm ring spanner instead of the special tool. Also have one of those ebay speacials for the slotted nut.
No need to seperate the hub carrier from the strut which also means no realignment.
Use MikeS2's guide, missing out the spring compressor stage if like Ross, you find you don't need them.
As Iain points out, avoid the fork type splitters, they wreck things those.

Mikes guide >>> Linky

Jas..

[s2driveruk]

Cheers guys and Mikes guide is just what I was looking for!


Better get ordering some parts

@Ross: Sooner rather than later I think

[4WheelDrifter]

Make sure you jack the car up so both wheels are off of the ground. That should give you enough room to work, and give enough movement on the strut to get the top mounts out.
I usually use spring compressors, but I have used a couple pieces of cable and screwdrivers in an emergency.
I have found the trickiest part is threading the top of the damper through the new top mount, then locating it in the turret. But with Bilstein dampers it should be easy, as the dampers shouldn't sink under their own weight. I find it helps having a friend to help direct you, and to put the nut on as you hold the strut in place.

HTH

[Ross]

Cheers guys and Mikes guide is just what I was looking for!


Better get ordering some parts

@Ross: Sooner rather than later I think

Let me know when you do it mate, if you need a helping hand Drop me a PM... I'm on nights this weekend, so could come into Basingstoke a few hours early if you wanna get it done.

[s2driveruk]

might just hold u to that once i've got the parts

Cheers
David

[4WheelDrifter]

Wrong thread.

[s2driveruk]

just reminded me i need to do this still. Spent this morning having fun rounding bolts holding the prop to the rear diff