Replace front top mounts

[quattro estate]

Is it possible to drop the strut far enough to replace the top mounts Or do you have to use spring clamps. Any info massive thanks

[John.]

You mean not take the strut off the car, leaving it attached to the hub carrier ?? It would be a bit of a faf.
Taking the strut off the car will allow you to check the condition/operation of the shocker.
From memory the spring needs very little compression to safely remove the strut top.

[quattro estate]

I kind a thought that with the strut dropped to its max you could just pull the Mount off the strut but if you’ve got to actually remove the top nut
that keeps the springs cap in place I guess I will have to remove the strut?

[Lago Blue]

This 2nds John's reco to remove the entire strut. That top Nyloc nut can come off (without releasing the spring, as there's another unique nut underneath it) when you're ready to drop and catch the strut, and after you've disconnected the strut from the steering link (1st) and the hub (2nd).

Do you have a Bentley manual? If not, go to Forums, Guides and Top-Tips, there is a sticky near the top of the list which contains a link in the first post to a site where you can access the Bentley (factory B3) manual, which is good enough for this purpose.

That site is the famous Internet Archive, log in (perhaps make even a very small donation) and access the following:

- archive page 629/1865, which has Bentley page 40.10 to see your type Fr. strut and how it can be disconnected from steering link and the hub.

- archive page 629/1865, which has Bentley page 40.13 to see the needed tools (your also expected to have a spring compressor) and how to disconnect the strut from the fender turret. Note there is a special tool necessary for that unique slotted nut.

This link by Mr. Paul Nugent (see also his http://S2central.net) re strut removal in much more detail, is to a sticky from right here in Suspension & Steering:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...strut-assembly

Here's a link to some posts on the importance of top-mount choice, reasons why, the best recent choices and sourcing:

- see posts # 39, 40 and 64 (full disclosure, these posts are from a long thread on a reinforcement for top-mounts that have now recorded a 10-year history of preventing mount collapse, a mod I've sold to members here on the forum), you'll also see a photo of part of the mod in this thread.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...55#post2083755

Hope that helps.
Cheers.

[John.]

....and you'll need something like this for the fancy nut/collar ........ Audi VAG Suspension Strut Go Thru Socket Tool *Brand New* Free Rapid Post* | eBay UK

[K Simmonds]

I did the job on the front of my old 3B on the car as I'd recently had the car's alignment done and wanted to avoid altering the set up significantly, it wasn't at all fun and took considerably longer than simply removing the complete assembly.

[quattro estate]

I finally fitted my 2 new top mounts on the front struts….without removing the wheel or strut I simply clamped the spring, removed the top nut and collar, dropped the strut down and then pushed the damper down allowing the old Mount to drop out. By pushing the damper down again and quickly removing the screwdriver I could just push the new mount into place. Reassembly job done less than 30mins?

[K Simmonds]

My old oil dampened Koni's started dropping as soon as I undid the slotted nut inside the top mount which is what I found annoying and time consuming, with decent gas charged shocks that constantly want to be fully extended I imagine it's straight forward enough. Good idea leaving the wheel on to pull the assembly down, I didn't actually think to try that, well done for having a go and getting it done in no time.

[Lago Blue]

Well done sir! At the rate that even the best OEM top-mounts fail if not reinforced, having a short-cut to replace them is going to be handy.

I hadn't even considered the more simple type of main spring compression tools, my Strut-Tamer (photo below) is my go to.

When I reinstall the strut, I always push the strut to hub bearing carrier joint to max. inboard as possible (something that was also done pre-alignment), with the two through-bolts still slightly slack, then they are tightened; to re-establish my alignment's settings.

As an alternative, consider Strut-Stops - a 10-year history on this forum of preventing OEM top-mount failures.

I'm going to link your method to my top-mount remedy thread.

Strut-Tamer w: Fr. strut, Pro-Mount and 2nd boot Screen Shot 2026-07-08 at 8.45.27 AM.png

[quattro estate]

?? thanks