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the other way to do it is to use a lamda probe socket on an extension to undo the nut and the allen key to hold the shock. The tool that rob needs is the nut with the two prongs in it, you dont need fancy tools to do the first bit like has been said.
You still require a spring compressor to ensure the top mount is in the correct position
Hi Mike, can you provide some more information about the mount positioning please. I don't remember anything mentioned in the Haynes manual. Not that they're much use!
Hi Mike, can you provide some more information about the mount positioning please. I don't remember anything mentioned in the Haynes manual. Not that they're much use!
David
If the spring is not compressed, the mount will be too high up the shaft. The top plate sits against the stop on the shaft and the top mount sits on top of this - you then tighten the slotted nut to 50 Nm. This is threaded on the shaft and once in position does not move so the position of the mount is fixed. You then release the spring compressor.
If the spring is not compressed, the mount will be too high up the shaft. The top plate sits against the stop on the shaft and the top mount sits on top of this - you then tighten the slotted nut to 50 Nm. This is threaded on the shaft and once in position does not move so the position of the mount is fixed. You then release the spring compressor.
I think I'm going to have a look at my strut tops, I don't remember the slotted nut!.
You still require a spring compressor to ensure the top mount is in the correct position
hi gents,
what happens if the top mount is not in the correct position? I am wondering if this is the cause of some lugging type noise i get when pulling away or coming to a halt. I have had the mounts done recently but cannot vouch for the workmanship.
I have also been advised that suspension springs can slip out of there seated position, is this a result of porrly fitted mounts also?
Or should i be looking elsewhere.
any pointers greatly appreciated.
Assuming the topmount is not too loose. Can you tighten it with a 22mm 'lambda' socket & torque wrench (50nm). Or do you need to re position the whole set up ?
I have an ongoing top-mount fitment headache see here. I hope yours is more straight forward, i.e. a tightening issue. There is a problem with mine I can't understand it and no-one seems to be able to explain, only solution i can see is to use a different / smaller slotted nut so the top cup can tighten down further.
As i side note, not all ring spanners will fit inside the cup - mine didn't.
Assuming the topmount is not too loose. Can you tighten it with a 22mm 'lambda' socket & torque wrench (50nm). Or do you need to re position the whole set up ?
Yes - as long as the mount has not moved so much that the springs are in wrong position (unlikely actually). This method is better than swan-neck spanner as you can torque it up properly. You will need a sturdy 7mm allenkey tho.
Done & OK. So the vibration is down to the 'high spot' on one of the front tyres given everything else has been sorted (bushes, new topmounts, new ball joints, etc )
Its most marked just below 60mph which to my mind means wheels/tyres
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