Nightmare overhaul front suspension

[Greenm3]

Well what a bloody day! Only got one strut off but managed to refurbish it. Though found the bolt going through the caliper carrier to hub are rounded off and siezed solid and the bloody track rod end insert is rock solid in the track rod, came off the steering arm but the thing wont budge.

Tried heating, tried penetrating spray, trying freezing, but i doubt it will work. And I just discovered you can't buy the threaded insert separately. The stealer wants 90 quid for a new arm.
To top it all off i cant undo the ****ing ******* top nut on the other side even with the the lambda tool and a massive allen key. AHHHHH this really winds me up.
How on earth am I going to remove the big 17mm nuts on the back of the hub, and the top mount the other side?
A very tired, very p i s s e d off
Michael

[Greenm3]

Any body got a massive jack hammer that should undo everything!!

[AndyP]

You can buy the threaded insert on it's own, it's a Quinton Hazell part, I get mine from Andrew Page they are about £8ea.

The part number of the adjusters is QR5005S

[4WheelDrifter]

You could take the steering arm off and grip it in a vice. Is the car a 3B or ABY?
Have you been beating everything with a hammer before trying to undo them?

[Greenm3]

I think i will beat everything with a hammer now, just for fun! But yea should loosen some of the rust, well at least I may be able to finish one side if I can get the insert, will prob just angle grind the bolts on the caliper carrier off.
As you can tell I have calmed down some what and can see a way out!
Thanks
Michael

[Greenm3]

Oh forgot to add, I'll post up some fotos of just how wrecked my top mounts were! Its unbeleivable can't imagine the last time they were done!
Michael

[s2_bo]

Michael, i know how you feel mate.

Its such a pita when stuff like that happens.

Are you re using the dampers? If not and if you cant use the allen key on the top of the dampers you could try clamping them with some big grips in between the springs.

Just a thought.

Good luck.

[S-Express]

he he I had all that fun 2 months ago - including having to weld 16mm bolts onto rounded off 12mm ones and replacing both wheel bearings and a cv joint and both calipers
But now i've started on the rear, I realize that the front was a walk in the park...EVERY single damn bolt has been a fight - every damn bush has been a battle - and now I'm fooked - for God's sake, don't TOUCH the back end until fixing the front is a distant memory

[AndyP]

I think i will beat everything with a hammer now, just for fun! But yea should loosen some of the rust, well at least I may be able to finish one side if I can get the insert, will prob just angle grind the bolts on the caliper carrier off.
As you can tell I have calmed down some what and can see a way out!
Thanks
Michael

Don't grind the heads off the caliper carrier bolts, you'll only make things worse as the carriers still can't slide off because the disc is in the way. Try a really good fitting hex bit, turn the wheel to full lock and get a breaker bar on it, a little heat wouldn't do any harm. If that fails try these:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/IRWIN-BOLT-GRI...3A1|240%3A1318

Or remove the whole hub and get a pair of Stillsons on them, I've done all of the above so one of them should work.

[stiglet]

Agree with the above.

An impact wench is what you need on the top mount nuts too.

[Greenm3]

I'm reluctant to remove the whole hub as money is now becoming an issue, and then i would end up having to get a new bottom ball joint and new bots for the wish bone. All of that i want to leave for a bit untill i have the money for polybushes.
Will try using stilsons and some heat though see if that helps.
Thanks
Michael

[Greenm3]

I tried the impact wrench on the top but seriously wont budge, my allan key had a big bar on it and now looks like a banana, i don't want to round the nut off, cause that would be a real problem!

[stiglet]

You'll round the inner allen key hole before you round the nut, which is an even bigger problem!

[Error404]

I feel your rage mate, BTDT with most of the work on my car - just gotta expect it and deal with it - lots of tea, fags and a punch bag help

get some heat on the top mount nut, that'll melt the nyloc and break any corrosion and should undo no probs. If the worst come to the worst, carefully grind off the retaining cup and that'll let the strut come away from the turrett and into a more workable position - I've got a couple spares tucked away somewhere i'm sure, or a new one won't be more than a couple squid i'm sure

If you can get the ball joint out of the hub, you can rotate the whole strut round further and give you better access to the carrier bolts - again, a lot of heat and a 3 foot breaker bar are you friends here.

Trackrods should come loose with enough heat - use a vice and a big pair of Stilsons as suggested above - otherwise Febi do OEM quality replacements much cheaper than the stealer - try Pete at Quattro Corner

HTH mate
Alex

[Greenm3]

I have taken the plunge and ordered new steering arms. The threaded adjusters are rare as rocking horse poo.

WARNING: HUB TO STRUT BOLTS ARE NLA!!!

The steeler advised me these are now obsolete. There are 2 on each side, unbelievable!

Anyway will be able to get everything back together tomorrow.

Michael

p.s (shamless plug) I'm selling a few bits in the for sale section to repay my debt from all this!!