type 85 coil overs (comp brake)

[MGaz]

on Thursday me and my m8 (well, mainly my m8) fitted the front comp brake converted coil-overs to my 1987 cq.

They are 2 1/2" inch by 8" inch De-Falkner springs (450lb) , and Billie shocks.

I also have alloy comp-brake top mounts on them too.

Since fitting, when i got the car home I found there is a 'creaking' sound coming from the passenger side when i turn the steering wheel from left to right while the car is stationery, & slowly maneuvering.

any ideas?


Second question:

Still haven't sorted the rears, but can anyone tell me exactly what parts from comp-brake will need ordering to convert the rears? Are they identical to the fronts? or different?

Also, what De-Falkner spring will I need?, will they be same as the front?

I could also do with knowing exactly what parts i need to buy for adding 'helper-springs' to the front and rear.



Any advice appreciated. Thanks muchly.

BTW these front ones ROCK!..

[goodall]

Generally regarded go the same rate at the back as front as makes the rear bit more relatively firm than standard tot he front help reduce understeer tendency. Or go 400-425 keep feel same as stock or go 475-500 make more oversteery.
Whats a 450lb spring like to drive on anyway, been thinking bout using comp brake conversion stuff do my own but using softer springs about 250lb as roads hear are a mess. Any pics converted strut?

Is the spring loose for as long as isnt no need for helper springs

[SE_30]

on Thursday me and my m8 (well, mainly my m8) fitted the front comp brake converted coil-overs to my 1987 cq.

They are 2 1/2" inch by 8" inch De-Falkner springs (450lb) , and Billie shocks.

I also have alloy comp-brake top mounts on them too.

Since fitting, when i got the car home I found there is a 'creaking' sound coming from the passenger side when i turn the steering wheel from left to right while the car is stationery, & slowly maneuvering.

any ideas?


Second question:

Still haven't sorted the rears, but can anyone tell me exactly what parts from comp-brake will need ordering to convert the rears? Are they identical to the fronts? or different?

Also, what De-Falkner spring will I need?, will they be same as the front?

I could also do with knowing exactly what parts i need to buy for adding 'helper-springs' to the front and rear.



Any advice appreciated. Thanks muchly.

BTW these front ones ROCK!..

Hi there,

How much did it cost you for the kit to convert to coilovers if you don't mind me asking, as I may go this way with my B2 90 quattro.

Cheers
Stuart

[G60Rallye]

You will need to measure the diameter of the rear upright to see which coilover tube you need. On a ur quattro the 2.5" tube fits both front and back.

If you want some springs I have some Faulkners left over 8" long 2 at 450lbs and 2 at 550lbs. They are brand new because I decided I needed to go down to 6" springs. Get in touch if you are interested in them.

[Rusty]

Creaking is most likely to be top mount if it's steering related.

[Kieron20V]

I had a simillar creaking on the front of my CQ when I converted to coilovers. It was the spring rubbing slightly on the strut insert cap.

[raymor]

M gaz... you have 2 1/4 on the front and you need the 2.5 conversion kit for the rears.

The CQ rears are the same as the Quattro Turbo with the larger driveshaft splines, the fronts are smaller and are specific to the CQ (I think)

Stiffness of the spring is relative to the weight acting upon it and although I haven't done the corner weights yet, I'm pretty sure that it'll be 60:40 ish front to rear for my 20v CQ. Therefore having the same spring rate will result in different wheel rates. Rear will be in stiffer in relation to the front.... as posted already.

Well done in getting yours on and going... I've just sorted out my driveshaft conundrum today, whahey!

[jogi730]

I do believe I have a similar setup fitted to my 90q






AND FITTED TO THE CAR



Cheers
CHris

[JP]

years ago when I fitted those to my Audi 200 I had to machine the spring tophat to fit properly underneath the topmount also fitted a thin delrin sleeve over the spring seat and top to stop it squeaking. iirc I ran around 8.5" lengths on the front at 450lbs and 9" lengths on the back with 350lbs drove beautifully on stock inserts for the estate.

To work out the spring poundage's I used a formula that lets you convert spring thickness, inner diameter and # of coils to determine the factory poundage's and then multiplied them by 30% which is what most uprated H&R springs are.

[Pembo]

That 'helper' spring is in the wrong location. It needs to be either directly above or below the spring and not within the 'adjustable thread zone, so when the strut/wheel has zero load the spring remains located on the aluminium plates.

Photos below of my setup and the Compbrake topmounts

[MGaz]

I do believe I have a similar setup fitted to my 90q






AND FITTED TO THE CAR



Cheers
CHris

That 'helper' spring is in the wrong location. It needs to be either directly above or below the spring and not within the 'adjustable thread zone, so when the strut/wheel has zero load the spring remains located on the aluminium plates.

Photos below of my setup and the Compbrake topmounts

look again at the picture. I don't think the helper spring is in the wrong place.. I think its missing a second screw collar at the bottom (or what ever its called) to 'lock' the springs height in to place.

[speeding-g60]

look again at the picture. I don't think the helper spring is in the wrong place.. I think its missing a second screw collar at the bottom (or what ever its called) to 'lock' the springs height in to place.

helper spring is definitely on the wrong end. you do not want the helper spring collar to rub on the threaded perch. you want it at the top of the strut so it is in free air.... it is only there to keep the spring in place when the car is lifted and the suspension is in full droop. otherwise the springs would rattle around in there and could end up not seating properly when the car gets back down to Earth.

and FWIW, my full coilover setup (not including strut inserts) with parts from race shops was less than $400 USD. not sure what that is to you guys, but not bad for DIY stuff.


http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26499

[raymor]

it is missing a locking collar, and yes the alloy retaining collar is not in the right place, but I would be very surprised if it moves much. We are looking at the strut at full droop, but in life, I imagine it wont see full droop while moving very often.

... the risk is that the aluminium collar will wear away, but I'm thinking that it will take a long time.

[MGaz]

helper spring is definitely on the wrong end. you do not want the helper spring collar to rub on the threaded perch. you want it at the top of the strut so it is in free air.... it is only there to keep the spring in place when the car is lifted and the suspension is in full droop. otherwise the springs would rattle around in there and could end up not seating properly when the car gets back down to Earth.

and FWIW, my full coilover setup (not including strut inserts) with parts from race shops was less than $400 USD. not sure what that is to you guys, but not bad for DIY stuff.


http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26499

I see what you mean about the potential for rubbing , and I'm not disagreeing with you, because it makes 99% sense to me. However, if the helper spring is 'meant' to be on the top, why then do they bother making the center bore of the helper collar big enough to slide neatly over the threaded section of the strut?

Secondly, I'm sure that I've seen the helper spring & collar on the bottom of most 'mainstream manufactured' coil over kits?

it is missing a locking collar, and yes the alloy retaining collar is not in the right place, but I would be very surprised if it moves much. We are looking at the strut at full droop, but in life, I imagine it wont see full droop while moving very often.

... the risk is that the aluminium collar will wear away, but I'm thinking that it will take a long time.

I also agree I can't see it moving very often in its life tbh. But saying that, I can think of 2 places on the road home from work where the front end regularly leaves the road as I come over the crest of the hill.. & there's also a small bridge on my way towards town at the weekends that does it too. So that works out at approximately 11 times a week.

[speeding-g60]

ya, i dunno then.... some with the helper on top. ??? i see it both ways.... maybe it has to do with the manufacturer or application. but my mind says up top, and if i feel the need to put them on my setup on top will they go. maybe they made the ID of the collar so it is lightest? anyones guess then....

oh well, carry on....

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