Tricks to open tie rod end adjustment nuts

[maddis]

I'm trying to open adjustments for tie rod ends since I'm taking my car the wheel angle alignment after replacing lower traction arms(?) at front.

I'm trying to get cheaper price by opening those adjustments by myself so that they don't need to open them at the shop at high price.

I tried to open those adjustment locknuts yesterday, but they didn't budge. I'm thinking that I might as well replace the tie rod ends since they are not that expensive and they might be damaged any way when opening the adjustment nuts.

Anyhow, are there any (good) tricks on how to open those lock nuts? I think you should rotate them counterclockwise both? There is not too much space work with no matter in which way the wheel is turned.

One last solutions would be heat or angle grinder, but those would really ensure that I'd have to replace the tie rod ends.

I'm trying again this evening so hope I'll have new ideas by then.

[driftin jo]

Sorry to have to say this but you have been tightening them

The track rod end (ball joint) has a standard right hand thread in it and the track rod
has a left hand thread, so sitting facing the wheel you turn both lock nuts
clockwise to slacken them off.

When you do get them loose you also need to hit the taper collars towards the
lock nuts to realise them as these will be locked on the taper and squeezing the
adjuster thread so it can't be turned.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen 'mechanics' at tire/tracking places fail to realise that this needs to be done and then declare that the adjuster rod is seized.

[Jenks]

Take the arms off the car, attack threads with a good wire brush, warm the nut you are tackling up (doesn't need to be cherry red) and then, resting a flat of the nut on an anvil or that flat bit on the body of a decent bench vice, smack the opposing flat (on the top of the nut) with a measured clout (Don't go berserk and deform the nut) to loosen it from the adjuster and don't be shy with the wd40 (other penetrating oils are available).

Good Luck.

[Jenks]

Sorry to have to say this but you have been tightening them

Erm...check that bit first

[maddis]

I did try to remove the arms, but the inner bolt on the left side is so hard to get that I couldn't get it open. The right side inner bolt is 'much' easier to access and I think I could get it open. And yes, I did bend the locking plate first before trying to open the bolt.

Any tricks on what kind of tool could be good to open that left side inner bolt? I tried to access it from right side when wheel turned completely to right, but still too tight spot.

And yes, I've soaked the nuts with penetrating oil, but haven't (yet) applied any heat since the arms are in the car.

[driftin jo]

Why don't you try loosening them instead of tightening them as per my first post ?

I have never needed to remove track rods or apply heat in 20 years of owning
loads of Audi cars, I have also loosened many friends cars adjusters
when they were declared seized.

[maddis]

I tried both ways yesterday. It seems that the nut is some non-standard size. It's little less than 22mm, but still over 21mm. Maybe they are just worn't out.

But I'll try clockwise them as suggested if that is really the right way.

[driftin jo]

It should be 22mm, you need a good quality open ended spanner, cheep **** won't cut the mustard.
If the nuts are rounded off get a Stilson on them, you also need to be holding the centre of the adjuster rod, 14mm I think, as trying to loosen the 22mm lock nuts by twisting the whole track rod won't work well at all, again if the 14mm hex is rounded off (this one normally is) put a Stilson on it.
WD40 and wire brush before hand, but I guess you have done this.

[maddis]

I have similar pliers what Stilsons are so I think I might have use them if nothing else works. And yes, Yesterday I hold at the centre. I'll that too. I'll just have to find a way how to lock the centerpiece somehow and get some impact to the locking nut. Much more efficient than just trying to twist the nut open.

And yes, I've used lots of penetration oil (not, wd-40, but the actual penetration oil) and cleaned the threads. I just need to breeak the rust and stuff that holds the nuts in place.

[driftin jo]

[maddis]

As suspected, locking nuts won't budge. I tried to keep the center 17mm adjustment bolt steady, but the problem is that there really isn't good place where to support it. Without good support the whole thing is so bouncy that all the force is lost if trying to smack the spanner holding the locking nut.

So now I need help on _how_ to unlock those nuts. Not just advice that use more force.

I'm tempted on cutting the tie rod end away and replace it since it seems that the old one won't come loose too easily.

[EspenW]

Heat.

[maddis]

Heat will be next, but it pretty much fries the ball joint.

Anyway, they look so bad anyway that I'm thinking of replacing them anyway.

[maddis]

It's open!

[UrS4boy]

Heat.

Agree but only after first soaking with a good pentrating oil for a while (a day? at least a few hours) and tapping with a hammer to loosen the rust. Then trying with the wrenches. IF and only if that doesn't work, then on to heat (propane plumbers torch will do. BTDT) More tapping, more heat, and then the wrenches). Will work eventually.

Splitting the threaded bit obviously works but I would be afraid of cutting into the threads of the rod.