urS6 Front Suspension Bolt - Stretch ?

[macspring]

Is the big bolt # 11 in kate, ( part # N 904 563 02 ) a stretch bolt and as such a one use bolt.

Got a clicking / clunking noise in my urS6 's front suspension. It sounds like the click in one's knee joint when you get old.

Everything that might be worn is now new, and tight, but just wondering about this bolt, as I don't want to snap it in situ.

Was going to get my torque wrench out tomorrow to loosen and retighten it, but before that was wondering it it is a one use bolt ?

New bolts ordered anyway, will have them next week.

How does one know one's front subframe bushes are shot ?
Too big of job just to take out the subframe to have a look. About 140K on the clock.

Thanks in advance.

[UrS4boy]

Yes it is a one time use stretch bolt, as shown as Item 20 on Pg.1/2 in this front suspension torque vales pdf (anything with the extra 1/4 turn = stretch):

http://12v.org/urs/FrontSuspensionTorqueValues.PDF

[JP]

I've re used that bolt time and time again possibly 10-12 times now. Only reason you get clicking.from there is that either someone has forgotten to fit the alloy tube or it has dislodged itself.

As basically the suspension arm is not located on the bolt. The bolt clamps it in place whereas its the aluminium tube that is a glove fit through the bush and the subframe. The only way to assure it is 100% located is to make sure it is not attached to the strut and anti roll bar whilst fitting it and torqueing it down. Then attached the anti roll bar then pop the strut onto the ball joint. Note its worth replacing the ball joint retaining bolt these go through a lot of strain and weaken from age and rust where I've had the strut pop of on full lock pulling away from a junction as the ball joint literally ripped through it taking out a cheese wedge chunk from the bolt.

[macspring]

Thanks for replies.

I put in new tubes and thought I did it correctly, when I replaced the big lower wishbones. Such a pita of a job, as whinged about in a previous thread from me.

Will order two new tubes also.

Found getting the old tubes out was a nightmare.

Is there an "easy" way to get the tubes out ?

Knew about the ball joint bolts from the heads up from Dave's informative postings with photos / part numbers, so can't make any improvement there.

Because I like to copper grease every thread, sick of fighting seized rear suspension bolts on the S2 Avant, does the grease throw out the torque setting values as they never use copper grease at the factory?

Thanks.

[UrS4boy]

Will order two new tubes also.
Found getting the old tubes out was a nightmare. Is there an "easy" way to get the tubes out ?

The trick to getting those tubes out is to run a wheel bolt into the open end of the tube until the threads on the bolt catch the inside of the tube. Then pull on the bolt to get the tube out (alternatively, hammer the bolt with the end of the LCA supported appropriately to get the tube loose, then pull it out). I replaced mine but they were perfectly fine (not rusted at all).

Check the tightness of the rear subframe mounts against the body. They are 12 point (normal double hex not triple square) 10 mm. After I redid my front suspension last summer, I took the car for an alignment, with the subframe bolts torqued but not stretched so the alignment guy could loosen the bolts and twist the subframe as needed to get the two casters close enough to each other (and center the subframe, as needed). After that I went on a 1000 km run to an Audi event. As I got to the event, I notice some front end clunking. When I inspected the suspension, I found two of the three bolts on the left rear subframe mount (as shown below) were missing and the third one was loose. The right rear was fine. I had to temporarily steal one bolt from the right side and add it to the left side so I could limp home. Not a happy camper is you might imagine. I confronted the alignment guy who claimed that he had re-torqued those missing bolts (sure buddy, sure). I also made him check the alignment. The print out said, it hadn't really moved. (Lucky me). Never going back there and never recommend him to UrS friends again (which I had done as I was previously a repeat customer).

[macspring]

Update - the cure !

The clicking got worse. Sounded like brake caliper was loose, check that, not that, then thought it was a cracked ball bearing race in the outer CV joint, getting desperate.

Took it apart again, to get to the bottom of it, because it was getting worse and doing my head in.

Turns out it was the big "nut" on the top of the strut that holds the shock absorber in place. Drivers' side was finger loose, boy does it make a racket.

Tightened up the respective "nut" on both sides. Car feels tight again, bumps and rough surfaces are now not a problem. Relieved and well pleased.

Should have checked this when I took apart the front shocks to put in new bump stops and dust gaitors.

Oh well, all's welll that ends well !