Top mount - tip

[mcandmar]

I'm surprised that made any difference, surely the shock's themselves would rotate and flex under load causing more alignment change long before the top mounts did anything

[DJones]

I'm surprised that made any difference, surely the shock's themselves would rotate and flex under load causing more alignment change long before the top mounts did anything

Top mounts are a week point in the chassis of Ur's and S2's. Proof is in the pudding... nothing else made a difference. As Rusty said the more power you put through it the more you find the weakness..

[mcandmar]

oh believe me i know they are a weak point, i just never envisaged the rotation at the rear being an issue. With the silly power your putting out you should also look into forward link bars for the a-arms as per the sport quattros, you must eat a-arm bushing in that car.

[speeding-g60]

FWIW, MK1-2-3 VW's have no bearing at the rear? its just bushings sandwiching the body portion of the mount, the cup or whatever you want to call it.

they have FWD and are just a shock in the back.

i think Audi may have done it for simplicity, so as to not confuse people and just make one part fit both ends.... no difference front to rear. one part fits all.

[DJones]

oh believe me i know they are a weak point, i just never envisaged the rotation at the rear being an issue. With the silly power your putting out you should also look into forward link bars for the a-arms as per the sport quattros, you must eat a-arm bushing in that car.

Yes thought of that, its on powerflex so no issues yet..

[GazzaG60]

I used promounts front and rear on my s2. no such issues with good mounts. what I found is the bearing was seized when I took them out of the rear. obviously no movement there.

I reckon the shock following the bushes etc would move first.

[URquattroGus]

Darren

This seems like a good idea, I'm thinking of giving it a go. I have a bit of loose back end too

Stupid question, how do I get to the rear top mounts? Never had to touch the rears (I got someone to replace them)

Can I just undo them at the top and let the strutt drop down?

Thanks

Angus

[Greg_S]

If its a coupe you need to remove the plastic covers either side of parcel shelf and tucked behind the boot carpet

[Laaf]

Is it supposed to be any movement in these when the nut is tightened down and the springs isn't compressed? I can wiggle mine on one side a little bit, but I haven't gotten the other side out yet to check if the other one is doing the same.

[PaulJ]

Rear steer on an RS2

Hi Folks

Had a very similar problem on an RS2, Changed all bushes for new Audi set, Re-aligned, new dampers / springs, issue still there, checked out subframe bushes, everything looked OK, by now getting totally fed up with it, Changed for powerflex, still no difference, Anyway removed subframe for sandblast powder coat and installed a set of bambridge solid subframe mounts, problem solved, was the issue all along, originals looked perfect even off the car, would not like to try to fit new set of rubber bushes into that subframe, suspension is hard as hell and chase squeaks continually but ho hum, Think solid subframe and rubber everywhere else would be a good balance

Cheers all, thanks for a great forum

[DJones]

Darren

This seems like a good idea, I'm thinking of giving it a go. I have a bit of loose back end too

Stupid question, how do I get to the rear top mounts? Never had to touch the rears (I got someone to replace them)

Can I just undo them at the top and let the strutt drop down?

Thanks

Angus

Hi Angus

The rears are little fiddly.. You need to remove the rear seat back and pull out the parcel shelf, the top strut nut is normally covered by a lump of foam.

Undoing them will indeed allow the struts to drop but only as far as the drive shafts will allow before they bind on the sub frame, which is not enough to get them out.

Whilst it sound heavy i pulled off all the vacuum lines to the rear diff, undone the prop-shaft, undone all the sub frame bolts, removed the rear calipers and just dropped the rest straight out of the bottom and hey presto everything is easy to get at..

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63614

Hope it helps...


Darren.

[URquattroGus]

Hi Angus

The rears are little fiddly.. You need to remove the rear seat back and pull out the parcel shelf, th to strut nut is normally covered by a lump of foam.

Undoing them will indeed allow the struts to drop but only as far as the drive shafts will allow before they bind on the sub frame, which is not enough to get them out.

Whilst it sound heavy i pulled off all the vacuum lines to the rear diff, undone the prop-shaft, undone all the sub frame bolts, removed the rear calipers and just dropped the rest straight out of the bottom and hey presto everything is easy to get at..

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63614

Hope it helps...


Darren.

Thanks, a bit more work than meets the eye then, thing is, I don't have a ramp! There is one at work, but not easy to leave it in bits....

I'Ve been thinking about converting the strutts to height adjustable coilovers with weld on collars, so probably ought to do it all in one go!

If only I had enough height for a ramp that and a better heater!