Whiteline RARB vs Audi ones on S2

[PeterS]

Has anyone been able to compare the performance of the adjustable 18 mm Whiteline RARB vs the stock one, or any of the Audi variations? (B2 rear Quattro, front from B3q,or front from CGT (FWD B2 Coupe) ?

I know that there are modifications required to fix the Audi "upgrades", but those oem parts are still readily available, whether i mount the bar ends to the rear links or lower track arms ala B2.

[rynaqui]

It's a much better upgrade vs stock version. Turn in and overall balance of the car was much better, it became a bit more predictable at least in my opinion

RS2 FARB was added as well though it's not really necessary and car handled fine without it as well. While doing all this it's a good idea to refresh your links and bushes, it makes a difference .

I got my RARB from demontweeks direct. Links from quattro corner front and rear.

[Rusty]

You can fit a B3 or B4 front bar on the rear as error404 and I have done respectively, as detailed in this thread-

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20175

Much more aggressive than the whiteline and cheaper too.

[Error404]

As above, have a read of the RARB thread that Rusty linked to, there are a few options

I have now gone to a Whiteline now, but only since I am now running stiffer rear springs to compensate. On the coupe, anything to increase the rear roll stiffness in relation to the front is a good thing (to a point)

[Rusty]

According to the TÜV spec sheets, the avant front springs are stiffer that the coupe ones, which in turn are stiffer than the rears. I am looking to fit some on the back and go to a softer RARB if required. Currently got a 25mm b4 front bar on there.

[Error404]

Cool, I did notice an improvement in the ride quality.
I have a 22mm B4 front bar here doing nowt if you need to downsize

[martinws]

I run stock S2 front and 24mm coupe E FARB on the back of my typ85 90. So i went from no RARB to a 24mm and it feels great.haha! Not had a chance to really push it to oversteer yet but no understeering felt as yet.

[Tonks4x4]

I am now running an RS2 front ARB on the front and a standard front one on the rear.

The difference in cornering combined with using coil overs is night and day.

I no longer have under steer situations but do get oversteer in the wet which I prefer as I find that more controllable.


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[andy10v]

Some interesting thoughts on arbs on our cars (CQ on coilovers)

http://www7.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36387&start=475

Based on wheelbase and CG height, suspension travel in a straight line is just fine due to the lower amount of weight transfer. But these cars are much more narrow than they have wheelbase, so more roll rate is needed than ride rate to keep load transfer in check--the same as any car. I'm working on determining the rate of the two different OEM options (sway bar or control arm mounted),

Whoever was spouting on the internet that you shouldn't run sway bars on a B3 is full of ****. I spent a bunch of time doing some calculations that said they would solve a multitude of issues I had predicted. I didn't manage to get them on the car due to some missing parts and a lack of time. Pretty much every prediction I made verified here.

The balance of the car is OK right now running 400lb springs all the way around. Very neutral, and with the rear torsen it will power out of a corner with no understeer whatsoever, bordering on power oversteer. You can't do anything stupid going into the corner, as it will push due to the motor placement or oversteer due to the high spring rates in back and front weight bias if you really ham it in. That's fine, and I wouldn't want to change that--a front RS2 bar and rear 26mm bar would be ideal, making sure you use the right type of bar to get the motion ratio right (hint, the control arm mounted bars are softer at the wheel).

The biggest issue that sway bars solve is a lack of suspension travel due to body roll. Cars are narrower than they are long (er, wheel bases are at least), so they need extra stiffness in roll to keep motions in check. It's super cool to watch this video of suspension as I drive the car and see it compressing exactly as much as I predicted, likely leaving only about .5" of travel before hitting a very firm, short bumpstop that doesn't give. Adding 26mm bars front and rear would HALVE the amount of suspension compression due to body roll in a 1g corner. It ends up being .5-.75" more travel available to deal with soaking up bumps, which would've made a significant impact on how I could drive the car on this bumpy circuit. Not only would I have better control over the bumps, I maybe wouldn't have had to change my line through certain corners to avoid hitting these monsters, which would've let me take them going much faster.

In an ideal world, I would want to go stiffer on overall spring rates as well. I've been setting up Porsche racecars lately, and depending on tires those cars are happily running 700lb front spring rates on the street (on the light front end of a 911) all the way up to 1500lb spring rates on a GT3 cup running Yoko slicks. With good dampers, the 700lb rates ride really nicely, and the 900-1100lb range work very well on the track for something running R6s--very quick response, good over small bumps, and no undesirable body motions. What's interesting is that works out to 6-7hz ride frequencies, which are over double what are suggested in the various chassis textbooks floating around out there for the most aggressive, aero-laden racecars. How times change...

[my2000apb]

As above, have a read of the RARB thread that Rusty linked to, there are a few options

I have now gone to a Whiteline now, but only since I am now running stiffer rear springs to compensate. On the coupe, anything to increase the rear roll stiffness in relation to the front is a good thing (to a point)

what are you running for spring rates?

[Error404]

60n front 70n rear