What the...

[Nuvo]

My front tyres having being wearing excessively on the outer edges. Just recently I noticed that the front n/s wheel is sitting off centre towards the front bumper.

The other day I took the n/s wheel off and had a quick check at the wish bone, drop link and tie rod everything seemed okay. So I refitted the wheel and booked the car in for an inspection at a good garage I know for next week.

Today I took a look in the engine bay to see if I could find the problem. What did I find?
The subframe at the rear is free from the chassis rail. The bolt through the bush has sheared off. I couldn't believe what I saw as I haven't hit any particularly bad pot holes in a long time. I haven't been able to check the other three bolts yet but I would assume there will be at least another one sheared clean off.

So I think it is fair to say the subframe has to come off for starters so this would be a good time to replace the four bushes. What about removing the sheared bolt(s) from the chassis rail(s). How difficult will this be? Has anyone any experience of doing this?

[simon20vq]

WOW!!!! I would guess that if some of the bolt is still protruding you could get some stilson or similar on it. While your there probably worth replacing them. That is unreal could job you spotted it. Are you running heavy duty top mounts or bushes or is it just metal fatigue?
Best of luck changing them.

[Nuvo]

Everything is standard, mounts, shocks, springs, bushes, drop links and so on.

[Rusty]

Sounds like it's come loose. Has it ever been off? They're stretch bolts IIRC, so might not have been replaced and stretched...

Take it all off, refurbish, replace and bolt back on It'll sharpen things up if it's all original for sure.

[Nuvo]

No, it's never been off before. I just find it really odd that this has happened. I'll need to wait until next week to get it on ramps to get a proper look at it. I'll fit new bushes, bolts and what have you to freshen things up.

[Rusty]

In which case, it's probably rust and cyclic loading... once something starts to go, it stresses the rest of the system...

[andy10v]

IIRC there are access holes into the chassis with rubber grommets over them, Skull posted up pictures I think.

You should then be able to see the nuts.

I would drop the subframe and see what is left, you might be able to heat/soak/weld onto the bot stub.

[Nuvo]

Thanks Andy, I did a quick search for Sküll's post but couldn't find it. I'll drop him a message.

edit: I had another look and found this.
Your memory serves you well.

[Skull]

good memory andy, that was ages ago...

[Nuvo]

Hi Sküll, you need to clear out some of your stored private messages.

[Skull]

done, tnx

[Nuvo]

Well I had a look at it today at the garage and the bolt has sheared off deep inside the threaded hole of the chassis rail so there is nothing to grip on to. Marvelous news.

[Skull]

it will be no problem is there is the access hole in chassis. if there isn't, than i would try drilling the bolt with a reverse thread drill, it should unscrew the bolt out...

[Nuvo]

If there is an access hole do I remove the captive nut and turn the snapped bolt clockwise to bring it up into the chassis rail and recover it out through the access hole?

By a reverse thread drill do you mean something like this?


These are great when they work but if it shatters it will make getting the sheared bolt out a whole lot harder.

edit: After a little searching on the web I know what you mean. Not an "easyout" or stud extractor, but left- handed drill bits. These are much better than the hit n' miss easyouts that I vowed never to use again. Thanks Sküll.

[Skull]

yes, lefty drills.

if you remove the seal, you dont have to remove the captive nut, you just have to unscrew the bolt with your fingers, it must come out easly i think...