80 Quattro Stiffness

[Kieron20V]

Make your own coilovers, convert your struts and use existing shocks, could easily do that for cheap if you can cut and weld.

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[R5T]

I can get welding done, just need a step by step really.. Materials, collars, springs etc .. Don't really know where to start mate :/.. Cut the bottom cups out ? Weld in smaller cups, Weld a threaded sleeve in over the damper, fit a spring and then threaded collars ?


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[cadiddy]

I'm pretty sure I've seen a thread over on motor geek? with a step by step, thinking about it it may have been by speedingg60 on this forum.

[R5T]

Ok dude thanks for the heads up !


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[quattrostyle]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71098 buy the struts and sleeves + some springs and shocks and you got the front end sorted. Rear coilovers for your car should be easy to get hold off.

[R5T]

Cheers for the link buddy

Chatting with Tom now lol


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[Error404]

Here is what I did:

Lop the original spring seat off; careful not to cut too deep and damage the strut tube.
Cut most of the way through, then **** it with a hammer, it will break off


Then grind back the lip left from cutting so you can pull the old spring seat off


The you're left with the weld line to grind back flush with the strut tube


Be careful not to go too crazy and damage the strut tube, you need it nice and even all the way round for a good fit of the sleeve.
Use the top cap to protect the threads from damage


Next step is whack the oven on to 200+ degrees, and chuck in your threaded sleeve
Use marker pen and colour in the strut tube, if you are posh or simply more organised and professional than me you can use marking blue


You'll also need to switch to a linishing disc on the grinder, to gently fettle the OD of the tube - I used 60grit.
Once your sleeve is good and hot, take it out and try and fit it over the strut tube - wriggle it about and twist it round, this will rub off the marking and show you where you need to tickle it with the grinder to make it fit


You really don't need to take much off the tube at all before the sleeve fits over.
If its a tight fit when its hot let it cool and you'll notice as it cools it won't quite fit on - this is perfect.


At this stage you'll probably need to tickle the top weld on the steering arm a little to let the sleeve fit as low as possible, as you can see really need to take about 5mm off the length of the sleeve so it lets the top cap tighten down fully. Repeat exactly the same for the rears, except the sleeves will not need cutting to fit. Took me about 3 hours to do all 4 struts.

Just needs the sleeve trimming and then fitting and welding now.
Going to blast mine first, then weld the sleeves on. Then I think I will try and zinc plate the finished article. Done.




From this thread:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50575&highlight=DIY+coilover

Note that I didn't bother finishing them, I sold these struts and I bought KWs as they worked out cheaper and much better

HTH
Alex

[R5T]

Wow .. Thanks for the walk though bud ! .. I know it's a fairly simple process but my welding looks like Susan Boyle.

What sort of adjustment are you going to get from these ?

Sam


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[R5T]

And were these for a coupe ?

As kw's for mine are upwards of £1000 !! Lol

Sam


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[Error404]

You can get as much drop as you like by using different spring lengths.
The problem is the damper - off the shelf inserts are not designed to be run that low so the travel will be seriously compromised, meaning they will be working well outside their efficiency envelope and will probably bottom out. So you either need to have your inserts modified or custom inserts made. To do that you really need to get them match to the springs you have chosen. Then you arrive at a cost that is more than KW V1s which have stainless bodies, adjusted steering arm height to reduce bump steer and they have invested the time & effort & money into producing an excellent compromise between handling & comfort...... hence why I didn't bother completing this project

[R5T]

Ahh this makes sense, to be fair .. All I want is a stiffer ride and less body roll.

I'm pricing up anti-roll bar swaps ATM, I just want it to feel more "track" inspired .. Low, hard and stiff really. Ride comfort isn't a massive issue to be honest as I don't do many miles.

The problem is, when drifting, the transition from left to right is so violent sometimes because of the body roll/pitch and dive. Makes it harder to catch.

Got somethinking/saving to do !

I found a set I can afford .. However they only drop 70mm .. Which I don't think will be enough for me as I want to go back to 15/16's

Sam


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[Error404]

Going really low will make body roll worse with mcstruts.
You need to read up on roll centres

[R5T]

When I say "really" low .. I Mean maybe another 20mm from what I'm at ATM which is 60mm (think).

Failing that ... For less roll and "boat like" motion... Any shocks/springs you'd suggest ?

Sam




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[Error404]

Yes that is pretty low. If you look at your front wishbone angles they are probably pointing up at the sky. So your roll centre will be down somewhere close to the centre of the earth

You mentioned drifting, have you converted to RWD?

[R5T]

Wishbone angles are fairly average from what I'm used to. Baring in mind I'm sat on 17" aswell.

And yeah, converted to RWD early this year. All going well, need to replace rear diff mount but that's it. Really enjoying it

Sam


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