Subframe strengthening

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  • malncol
    replied
    I ended up ordering a tubular one, should be finished this week. The rear in my car is doing a great deal of work so I thought it best to go all out, if it lets go at speed iam in deep do do
    thanks
    mal

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  • inne3quattro
    replied
    They do crack with no stiffening, 20 odd years old and spot welded, often with much more HP than originally intended, ( see mal keough's thread) complete seam welding isn't the answer. Stitched welding is the way forward (imo and looking at works subframes) you will find they have wax inside and can be awkward to weld, even with the best cleaning and prep. I ground the overlapped seams even, stitched, ground out again giving a nice base to weld from ( I have a thing for bird **** weld, they don't hold and look awful) wishbones are the same even after blasting, additional plates were added to the wishbones along the sides where the two pressings meet on early works cars, hope this helps and saves you some time

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  • diesel des
    replied
    I only did it on 2 pick up points on each frame. But I don't reckon it will move far...

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Like this for reference.



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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by diesel des
    Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.

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    You wont get much better than that good effort

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by diesel des
    I tied the subframe bolts into the cage in an effort to stop this. Is this a common issue?

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    It moves on the actual captive nuts it tightens into.

    Do you mean you brought your cage down and then cut out and removed the captive nuts and welded something solid in?

    On mine before i went to a tube front end it moved the frame and this would in turn move the toe settings

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  • diesel des
    replied
    I tied the subframe bolts into the cage in an effort to stop this. Is this a common issue?

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by S2central.net
    Do you mean there is a chance of deforming it during welding operations ?
    I mean under hard corning on good tyres the sub frame will move on the 4 bolts

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Even with the mug it spits etc.

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  • AndyP
    replied
    Originally posted by diesel des
    Could be done Paul. They don't weld very neatly as even when blasted their is so much crap in the seam.

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    I tried TIG welding mine after blasting and had the same issue, I gave up in the end. Probably have more sucess with a MIG,

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Could be done Paul. They don't weld very neatly as even when blasted their is so much crap in the seam.

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  • S2central.net
    replied
    Fancy doing two more sometime ?

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  • diesel des
    replied
    I welded all the seams on both my subframes for the urq.

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  • S2central.net
    replied
    Do you mean there is a chance of deforming it during welding operations ?

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