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The old way of testing to see if your clutch was dead was drive at 20mph, stick it into 4th and foot to the boards, if revs rose but speed didn't clutch was fried.
But they are not adjustable, sorry! If you are planning on uprating your engine hp, at least now would be a good time to considered an uprated clutch.
well there is no chance of any slip at 20mph in 4th..... but then again, the engine is virtually at tickover at that point so not exactly generating alot of torque......
well there is no chance of any slip at 20mph in 4th..... but then again, the engine is virtually at tickover at that point so not exactly generating alot of torque......
The more it slips the more it boils the resin to the surface hence the more it slips, there is no adjustment it will need changing im afraid
Trying to find out - all I know is it was a '240mm' and cost £163 + VAT + fitting.
Problem with LUK clutches?
All I know is that the pedal pressure is *much* less than it was on my previous ABY..... needed 2 feet for that one!
Trying to find out - all I know is it was a '240mm' and cost £163 + VAT + fitting.
Problem with LUK clutches?
All I know is that the pedal pressure is *much* less than it was on my previous ABY..... needed 2 feet for that one!
I have had more of them slip than any other, you need to see what is stamped on the driven plate, had some Sachs clutch kits with LUK driven plate in the kit. Sachs printed on and LUK stamped on....
I've had problems with slipping clutches on my S2. Not suprisingly, it only started after mods to the car. I bought what I thought was an uprated Sachs unit that slipped badly, so I replaced that with a Precision Clutch unit that slipped under full load in high gears, now I have the Clutchnet carbon/sintered unit waiting to be fitted. I'll be very unhappy if I still end up with clutch slip after fitting it
It's not such a bad job to change the clutch, just a long process. I opt for the engine out as it can be done on the driveway.
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