evidence of a split CV boot?

[A6 AVANT]

Changed the o/s cv gaiter on my A6 last friday, bought a genuine kit which came complete with new gaiter,retaining clip,BOLT,grease,sealing rings etc. and was 18 quid plus a few pennies and vat (trade). But genuine stuff does seem to fit better than aftermarket. I also find that if you assemble the joint,fit the large ring to the gaiter and crimp it up then cut a corner off the grease packet, and force the grease down the threads to fill the cv from the inside and release the air from the small end of the gaiter whilst doing this. I find this helps minimise grease all over the hands instead of in the joint!
HTH
Chris
p.s. latex gloves although they get slippy when grease gets on them do help and help prevent black hands for a week!!

[Alistair C]

Originally posted by S2 Ant
By the way to do it, the hub bolt is 27mm and you will need a length of scafold pole to undo it and do it up after!

The rest is simple!

Hey Ant, are you sure its a 27mm? thebible @s2central says were looking at a 26mm hex......need to get one or the other soon - did you buy yours specifically?

[S2 Ant]

It was def 27mm..... i can double check in the morning tho for ya, as it will be the socket in my set thats a funny colour LOL

[Mikes2]

fronts are 27mm, rears are 24mm.

[audiman]

Its defo 27mm on the front, sometimes new bolts come with kits that have 14mm internal hex bolts. Its the same as A4's etc.

@Alistair, yeah thats the guide!

[Alistair C]

QUOTE TOM:
"To get the shaft out, undo the bottom ball joint and the big central bolt in the hub. Pull the BJ off the hub, may need a tickle with a hammer! and them just push or pull the shaft out. EASY.

To get the joint off the end of the shaft use the old bolt and screw it into the joint, it will then go tight, keep winding it in until you get to the end of the thread and then the joint will be free"





Tom, why undo the balljoint? wouldn't it all be a whole lot free-er if you just separated the bearing housing from the strut & left it all to droop forward on the bottom ball joint?

And once it is all dropped away, does the outer shaft just pull out of the bearing or does it take a bit of a tap too?

Sorry - just want to know exactly what to expect before I go in.
And I gotta get it right first time 'cos there are supposed to be blizzards next week & I'd rather use the quattro than cycle in -8 degrees!

[Lee]

Originally posted by Alistair C

Tom, why undo the balljoint? wouldn't it all be a whole lot free-er if you just separated the bearing housing from the strut & left it all to droop forward on the bottom ball joint?

This will not give you enough room to withdraw the driveshaft from the wheel bearings. Unbolting the strut from the hub will only result in you having to undo the balljoint aswell. Do it the way Tom suggests and simply remove the single balljoint bolt (not the 3 camber adjust bolts) or you will screw the geometry.

And once it is all dropped away, does the outer shaft just pull out of the bearing or does it take a bit of a tap too?

Mine just came out but it may need persuading with the persuation tool (hammer)

Sorry - just want to know exactly what to expect before I go in.
And I gotta get it right first time 'cos there are supposed to be blizzards next week & I'd rather use the quattro than cycle in -8 degrees!

Quattro in the snow and ice is naff with summer tyres..give me front wheel drive anyday on summer tyres in cold weather! Now, quattro with snow tyres, that's a different matter...superb!

Lee

[audiman]

Cheers Lee, beat me to it!! Yeah, if you let it rest on the BJ the hub is in the way to. It also puts a lot of stress on the ball and socket of the BJ.

HTH

[Stick Insect]

Hi Audiman,

I was used to working on Metro Turbo CV gaiters and Citroen BX, they do not have a central thread hole for a bolt but have a CV shaft with a nut, I don't know of any other way to do them ( Haynes said that was the way).

Audi always have to be different!


I have a set of Impact Sockets with 27mm and 24mm in.

some people may not know but if you use a scaffolding pole on an ordinary socket you can split them, I've only done it about 5 times. Impact socket sets are not too bad from Machine Mart or similar.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/

you could then get yourself a windy gun, you would then need a compressor, an engine hoist would be handy, a roll cabinet for the tools...................

Ladies are good at shopping but give me a tool shop and I can beat them hands down.

David

[s2driveruk]

agreed after living on a hill in ice and snow with an s2, MR gravity always has a say with the heavy front end and on summer tyres its bloody awful. I am interested to get these silica goodyear f1's on the white stuff! I think they will be even worse than before on Michelin's with atraditional tread pattern.

Cheers,

David

[Alistair C]

excellent- job done!

As Tom said - an easy job - all apart from getting that f*ing ball joint out of the hub..... muchos 'persuading' required on mine (luckily I reasised fairly early on thay you actually have to remove the bolt - not just loosen the nut)

Anyway.... sod the VAG tool.... I managed by adapting some carpenters pincers to do the job. Maximum crimping aquired without resorting to mole grips too.....useful piece of kit now......£2.49 @ halfords

[audiman]

Good tool, might have to create one of those for my toolbox! Better than the old pliers that I have used before! Glad it went well.