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I agree with Jamo, however the dual mass flywheel cannot take the punishment of 500hp crank in my experience. I would have gone with a sm flywheel but not a lightened one.
The synchros are bad in all Audi 6-speed trannies in my experience, but you have to have the right oil, and if you shift correctly you can shift really fast without hurting the tranny, I'll make a movie later this summer and show you what I mean..
I'm doing the same amount of power like you, and I've never broken a tranny like THAT. Only 2 rear diffs and a few synchros , do you tighten the driveline before taking off? Try that, and what kind of clutch are you using? Springed sinter clutch is preferable with that power, so you don't stress the tranny too much.
There are ppl here in Scandinavia with 500+ whp that uses 6-speed trannies and they don't have the same problem that you're having. So start with getting a fresh DSY or EDU box. Change the oil to redline light shockproof. and throw away any possible short shift kits. And watch my tutorial later this summer
NEVER use a shortshifter with these boxes, you'll destroy the synchros in a few months.
2004 9-5 aero
2009 Subaru Legacy Diesel
1994 Toyota Supra Eurospec 6-spd LHD
3-4 Audis in parts
i come out of the hole hard 4500+ rpm launch and having a s6 avant shes no lightweight .
I have a sachs race clutch non sprung hub, ya prosty I HATE short shifters had one ruin syncros in my vw tranny so i swore off them for life.
Prosty what do you mean by this;" do you tighten the driveline before taking off?"
A few people here swear off Redline Shock proof because the shockproof additive clogs the "rifle holes" this was told to me by Stasis Engineering in California they are one of the few companies that rebuild these and upgrade the main shaft and 2nd gears by cryo treating and micropolishing them.
Id go back to dual mass but that thing is HEAVY and HUGE and i rev the car to 8000rpm +.
Try a TDi box, they are tough from my research and might even have stronger bearings. the diesel engines have more torque at lower gears so they are designed for large torque loads. Just my 2 cents
Sean
91 CQ Elanor 1.9L compound Turbo build. Fully built internals, full race oval port head, custom race cam. GT2256v and hy35 in compounds.
i come out of the hole hard 4500+ rpm launch and having a s6 avant shes no lightweight .
I have a sachs race clutch non sprung hub, ya prosty I HATE short shifters had one ruin syncros in my vw tranny so i swore off them for life.
Prosty what do you mean by this;" do you tighten the driveline before taking off?"
A few people here swear off Redline Shock proof because the shockproof additive clogs the "rifle holes" this was told to me by Stasis Engineering in California they are one of the few companies that rebuild these and upgrade the main shaft and 2nd gears by cryo treating and micropolishing them.
Id go back to dual mass but that thing is HEAVY and HUGE and i rev the car to 8000rpm +.
IM just tired of blowing them up
An OEM 7A or 3B flywheel will do IMO not a fan of lightened flywheels.
Regarding TDI boxes the ratios are different to petrol you'd really have to be careful and make sure the ratios match or are very close.
An OEM 7A or 3B flywheel will do IMO not a fan of lightened flywheels.
Regarding TDI boxes the ratios are different to petrol you'd really have to be careful and make sure the ratios match or are very close.
ya ive been researching a lightened 7a and how to mount the speed/ TDC sensors for that i think i can either swap the 7a sensor bracket over or modify the stock one to swivel over.
Tighten the drivline is: Press the brake, release the clutch until it starts to grip, and you drop ~200 rpm from your idle, press the clutch back in, now all the gears and driveshafts are "tight" against each other and don't slam when you release the clutch from a 5000+ rpm banzai take-off.
If you want you can use the hand brake instead of the normal brake, but that's hard to do if you're on the dragstrip and lining up, at least if you want to go as soon as the light turns green.
I've tried the heavy shockproof, that's just too thick, but the lightweight version works absolutely wonderful in my trannies.
Hope any of this helps or sticks
2004 9-5 aero
2009 Subaru Legacy Diesel
1994 Toyota Supra Eurospec 6-spd LHD
3-4 Audis in parts
Tighten the drivline is: Press the brake, release the clutch until it starts to grip, and you drop ~200 rpm from your idle, press the clutch back in, now all the gears and driveshafts are "tight" against each other and don't slam when you release the clutch from a 5000+ rpm banzai take-off.
If you want you can use the hand brake instead of the normal brake, but that's hard to do if you're on the dragstrip and lining up, at least if you want to go as soon as the light turns green.
I've tried the heavy shockproof, that's just too thick, but the lightweight version works absolutely wonderful in my trannies.
Hope any of this helps or sticks
ya thats exactly what i do now ive been doing that for the past 6 months but i beat it before then oops . My car is actually going to be a test mule for a 4500 rpm motronic launch control.
Basically i think im going to buy a new mainshaft for my transmission and have it cryo treated and rebuild it when i have the money.
Shed some weight off your wagon Weight is the enemy in all motorsports. If your car was lighter the tranny wouldn`t take so much punishment. Go carbonfibre where you can, throw out everything you dont need ( ac, ashtray, powerwindows and your granny ).
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