Which clutch!

[Beetie]

Is it possible to upgrade the clutch on a 3B, without going down the sports clutch line? I would like to change mine whilst the engine is out, but dont want to spend too much and also i wont be going stupid with power (unless the bug REALLY gets me!! :wacked: :wacked: ). So far all i want is a paul n homefry, and if funds allow, an RS2 turbo etc.... Any ideas?

[porkkis]

I'm planning to get a Sachs Race Engineering pressure plate and use the standard disc in the future. That should be good for around 600Nm. Currently running on stock engine and stock clutch which is starting to be a bit tired.

[SteveH]

I have a Sachs unit fitted to my 3B. It copes with the RS2 setup without any problems. The kit comes with an LuK friction plate. The pedal feel is very light, you'd swear it was meant for a 1.0ltr Fiesta

I'll dig out the part number and post it when I get a chance

[Beetie]

i could get an Luk clutch from my local parts distributor.... never had any problems with an Luk clutch before, but ive never ran a car with this much power before!!
Dont really want the clutch to disintegrate when booting it at WOT!!!

[desmo888]

Here is my favorite Clutch:
www.pro-rock.com
Sorry, had to throw that in, just saw them a few nights ago...

[SteveH]

Beetie, I retract my comment about the Sachs unit While running my engine in I've managed to get it to slip under load. The RS2 setup and Mihnea's chips are too much for it. Next option would be one like Tom has. It's an uprated Luk pressure plate, I think the friction plate stays OE.

I'll give him a shout and see if he can provide details. If it's lasted Tom 3 months it has to be up to the job

[Doug_RS2]

Steve - was your sachs the standard off the shelf one? Is there not supposed to be a better one? I need a good one as well - although it is for an ABY.

Do clutches not need bedded in? How are you going to change it? Remove the gearbox?

[Beetie]

Nice to see we have got somebody who can put these things into perspective!! I did think that when running nearlt 400 brake that it might need something a bit stronger to bring the beast under control without any slippage (is that a new word ive just created?:wacked: )!
So at the end of the day its gonna have to be an uprated clutch/friction plate? Do i have to go along the race line?
Tom what friction plate are you running in yours?

[SteveH]

Tom's unit has been remanufactured by a company close to where his lives. I believe they are an LuK distributor. They use a standard friction material and uprate the springs on the pressure plate. I spoke to him last night, however, I didn't get the contact details...d'oh!

Perhaps Tom can fill us in on the details?

[Beetie]

Mine will be changed whilst the engine is on the floor before being put back in. I believe its a PITA to change in situ, so hopefully? this will save me a few £'s

[audiman]

Bit slow on the uptake of this thread! LOL
Right basically, i have put a lot of time into finding a decent clutch that will a) not destroy my bank account
b) not destroy my flywheel
c) last longer than 3000 miles
d) be driveable, ie not on/off

I have come to the conclusion that for the 3B there are two options

1) Sachs organic uprated clutch cost trade is £453 +VAT 3 weeks wait
2) An uprated std clutch unit cost of about £100 by my local firm

It is a trial and error sort of way of finding a clutch that can take the power, so far with 360 ish BHP and loads of torque, option 2 hasnt failed me. I havent been dumping the clutch tho, as i cant be arsed to kill it and have to take the box back out.

This company are called Precsion Clutch on 01963 362484 tell them I sent you.

For the ABY opwners its more involved. If a STD clutch wont take it then its gonna cost some money. The dual mass flywheel is limited as to the amount of torque it can handle. If the clutch is too strong it will make the flywheel disintergrate(?). So for high torque outputs (Doug/Mark), you will need a solid flywheel and then the uprated clutch.

[Doug_RS2]

I don't understand how this dual mass thing works, so I will be bringing it with me to the meet. I might just go with the uprated clutch that that place can do on mine - if it doesn't work I will remove the geabox to try something else. I don't really have the cash to splash out on a clutch - I am spending the money on the engine.

I'm aiming to remove everything from the car in a space of one year and I haven't removed a gearbox yet

[Greg_S]

Doug,

Im taking my old flywheel to the meet with me for lee if you just want to use that one rather than bring yours down?

Greg

[Doug_RS2]

Greg - It's all in the car now anyway.

[charlie]

Sachs Vs Luk

The last thing you want on your car is an Luk item.
I spoke to both Kim at QST and also Keith at Dialynx,
and they both assured me for power of 400+ bhp
and 400+lbft torgue, a standard new clutch should cope
Just fine.
Qst is running a car with 500 bhp on the standard clutch
a kim pointed out. But if you have money burning a hole in your
Wallet , it will cost you 1100+vat for a paddle item.
Keith at dialynx was alot more helpfull and insisted on
only fit a sachs clutch kit i.e pressure plate, friction plate
and release bearing as acomplete new set.
Dialynx can sell you an uprated sachs kit for 400+vat(600 bhp)
Which he said would handle anything you throw at it
Or a racing paddle clutch for 500+vat (800 bhp territory)