Gearshift rod - modified!

[Keeper of The Kitten]

Oh my this one won't go away!! I've done a test fitting of the prototype, the aluminium bush was a little tight so it needs some fine tuning.

So now, I need to call for some help from forum people - if there are chaps out there who can machine parts, I will be needing the services of someone who can do just that!

I will need the spacer bushes manufactured from 2014 T6 (the ring shape that goes over the pin on the gearbox).

Also, adaptor weld-on bushes from SAE4130 (although these can potentially be made from a piece of 3/4" tube with an aluminium plug in the end).

I will also need the timed holes in the Apex couplings, and finally some curved washers.

Quite a few pieces for experienced machinists to take on, but competitive prices are a must! If you're interested I will forward drawings for perusal (.dwg format or .dxf)

[Flat on my back]

.

PM me...

.dwg format should be good for me on Autocad 07 or .pdf

[macspring]

New to this bit of the car

Getting familiar with a lot of the bits on an S2, but haven't yet considered / dealt with the gearlever mechanism yet. So if you can bear with me while I ask a few questions to catch up?

Very familiar with a Mk 1 Golf 020 rod change mechanism and how to shorten the throw and eliminate the slack in the linkage etc..

The rod shown at the beginning of the thread presumably goes from the base of the gearlever to the box itself?

Is the aim of this rod to remove wear and tear slack or does it also shorten the shift?

Can anyone post a good sized picture from the family album of the gearlever mechanism, i.e. from the gearknob to the point of entry on the top of the box.

A group buy of this rod, ( assuming such a possibility was to exist ), would be good, but ideally it would natuarlly be helpful if someone could post the pros and any cons of changing this piece from the standard piece?

If a such a group buy is not fessible, is there any advantage to be had by replacing the item with a new standard piece over a worn one on say a car with 130K miles?

While I'm rabbiting on, does anyone have any info on short shift kits relating to the actual gearlever itself?

Are there any gains to be got, i.e. shorten it and or tighten up on any slack trough use or age?

Is is easy / expensive to do and where does one get the necessary bits?

Sorry for all the questions, but as mentioned I'm keen to catch up on this particular area of the S2.

Thank you to anyone posting a reply and kind regards.

[stiglet]

David - I'm assuming this won't shorten the shift throw. It'll just feel better. I've got a short shift kit on mine and even though the ball joint (on the actual gear lever) is brand new it still has play in it from the UJ (on the actual shift linkage) which is annoying! Old rubber is old rubber and all that...

Good place for short shifts, 034motorsport.com

They've just released a new "solid" shifter which looks sweet.

P.S. Keeper - Would also be interested in one of these assuming the 7A/3B linkage is identical. I'm in no rush though.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

To explain this device, it removes the slack from the stock joint - especially old ones that get worn out with age, but it will take out some slack compared to a new one as well.

Technically it won't shorten the shift but it actually will slightly, because the play in the joint is eliminated.

The pros -
It should make the shift more positive.
The joint can be replaced separately.

The cons -
It will transmit vibration to the gearlever
(the main reason for the stock soft joint in the linkage).
The pin on the gearbox needs to be drilled to Ø5mm
(although this shouldn't prevent a stock linkage being refitted).

I haven't investigated other shift linkages compared to the five speed, I understand that the six speed is quite different. This works for the five speed where the pin on the gearbox is on the upper right hand side, facing rearwards. The total length of this linkage is about 0.6m or 24", as a guide.

I might be tempted to design upgrades for other parts of the linkage or for other gearbox types if there is demand. Bear in mind that my experience is with motorsport and therefore I would tend to design for the best solution, not the cheapest...

PM coming your way Carlos!

[S2central.net]

I have a question...

WTF, prey, is a "timed hole" ?

I daren't google it for fear of spurious adverts for ethnic content.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

Meaning the angular change from one hole to the other.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

TBH, I think future versions should have all the angular timing on the extension adaptor, which would make machining of the UJs a lot simpler.

[macspring]

Thanks for replies

@ Keeper,

Can you advise if this selector rod and the base of the gearlever are reasonable visible to appreciate what's there and how it works, and also physically accessible to check for play in the mechanisms, if one was to jack up one's car and crawl under?

( It's dark, very late and wet outside and I'm also impatient ).



I appreciate because of your background all your solutions are designed to the top level, with cost very much a lesser priority.

You'll have to get a second hat to wear and think down at our plebeian level, unless of course your designs are within our limited financial grasp !

Joking aside, the kit in the photos at the start of the thread is impressive. You just can't beat military spec!

Best wishes with future occupational endeavours.

Kind regards.

[macspring]

Another scenario ?

After looking at this link below, to 034's new short shift gearlever, the most appropriate solution for a road going car IMO, as opposed to a track or drag car, is that one buys this 034 solid gearlever, and replaces the selector rod going from the base of the gearlever to the gearbox with a new factory one, with it's new rubber universal joint, thereby still maintaining some civility as regards a reasonable / acceptable level of engine vibrations getting through to the gearknob / driver's hand?

The 034 gearlever also shortens the throw and is adjustable to suits individual's own preferences, always nice / handy.



http://www.034motorsport.com/product...ducts_id=13999



It would also take any pressure off the Kitten to make loads of the selector rods?

Any thoughts on the first bit of this post ?

Kind regards.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

I'm not too worried about the vibrations, after all you're not supposed to drive along with your hand on the lever anyway! The lever bush assembly doesn't look susceptible to vibration.

Regarding manufacture, I would need to farm the work out to "people who can" because my strengths lie in the design aspect.

As for cost, the UJ is quite expensive at around £80, and then it would need subsequent drilling for the through bolts. I am sure there is scope to reduce costs for large enough quantities, if the interest is there!