Clutch Failure/Problems

[ericd]

I know it's might be a bit of a PITA but if you search through the multiple "clutch" related threads you'll find all the info you need all be it in many different threads, I can only give you details relating to g/box removal (aby ?), first you're gonna need 2 or 3 people to hold/carry the box when you get it off, anyway very quick summary but you get the idea.

exhaust + heatshield removal, propshaft removal, linkage -> slave cylinder, usually have to disconnect steering rack to enable rotation of the g/box, lots and lots of nuts and bolts, box out, remove clutch, inspect flywheel, potentially replace spiggot bearing, reverse the process, usually end up putting in new slave (as they've potential to disintegrate if handled too much ), i've always replaced driveshaft bolts on reassembly, also pay close attention to reassembly of steering rack as you're tracking may well now be off.

It looks easy written down in a paragraph, but again you're gonna encounter the usual seized/broken nuts/bolts, there's a few thread were peopl have done this on axle stands but the clearance is tight

[s2bug]

had this ....

replaced master, bled ... all great until .... nothing ..

Went into gear with engine off,

Engine started, not a chance to go into gear ...

Checked slave and master again, bled, hoping that was at it was ...

Pressure plates gone , total a***e,

Means an engine out, new clutch in..

Have got a great cost though for RS2 OEM clutch, water pump and Cam belt, tensioner etc all sorted for £950 or £750 without extras...

Not what you need, gutted 4 u

J

[johne]

I chose engine out because I couldn't get my car high enough in the air safely to do battle with a heavy gearbox and because by choosing engine out I could hang the engine from my workshop roof and having removed the front x member etc. could just take the weight of the engine and then roll the car backwards. This way you can do the whole job on your own.

Points to note

Manifolds can stay on. Best to remove O/S headlight as the turbo has to squeeze past it on the way out
No need to drain the oil if you don't want to, you can leave the oil cooler & filter attached
Turbo to exhaust flange has 3 17mm nuts but the most inaccessable one is the same thread size but 16mm across the flats. Disconnect the manifold from the front of the cats as well.
You will need to raise the engine as you push the car back as the flywheel has to come up to clear the subframe underneath. Same for putting it back in but a bit more tricky to get the angles right. Trolley jack to support the gearbox helps but if you forget the rack will act as a failsafe
Bonus with the engine out is being able to replace easily those two little water hoses that fail
Selection of bolts, spacers etc. that hold engine to clutch housing are odd, take note as you remove them
You can get away with leaving the steering rack & tie rods in place but will have to move it from side to side to access all the housing bolts.

Take the opportunity to change the timing belt and water pump whilst you can. Bleed the clutch hydraulics before you put the engine back in

John

[Alistair E]

Thanks John. Exactly the sort of pointers I was looking for.

Couple of questions (it's not easy to visualise the job sitting at the computer in work).

How does the rack act as failsafe?

Which bolts are you removing as you move the rack side to side? Re-reading I think I've realised. You left the gearbox in the car.

I was thinking of taking the box out with the engine. Not sure if that is the best idea. I don't think the two will come out together without removing the subframe.

How did you manage to get under the car to undo bolts if it was still on the floor? I've always found it virtually impossible to get under unless it's on ramps. Had thought about putting it on ramps before I start work. That way there's no issues getting to anything. Just makes all the lifting a bit higher. I'll be using an engine crane so I don't need to roll the car back.

Thanks

Alistair

[Fat Audi 80]

If it's any consolation, the headlights come out with four cross head screws in about five minutes, not an issue to worry about, just get them off!

Best of luck to you though!

Cheers,

Steve

[johne]

>>How does the rack act as failsafe?

The gearbox is held by two mountings, one on each side. Without the engine to hold it, the centre of gravity of the gearbox relative to the mountings is such that the back of the gearbox drops down so the front comes up until the clutch bellhousing rests on the rack............................

>>Which bolts are you removing as you move the rack side to side? Re-reading I think I've realised. You left the gearbox in the car.

I did and it's the bellhousing bolts and your socket on them that will foul the rack.

>>I was thinking of taking the box out with the engine. Not sure if that is the best idea. I don't think the two will come out together without removing the subframe.

I suspect that's true and I can't see why you'd want to remove both. See my next answer as to why I had to leave the gearbox in.

>>How did you manage to get under the car to undo bolts if it was still on the floor? I've always found it virtually impossible to get under unless it's on ramps. Had thought about putting it on ramps before I start work. That way there's no issues getting to anything. Just makes all the lifting a bit higher. I'll be using an engine crane so I don't need to roll the car back.

I put the car up on the ramps before starting. Removed radiator, starter motor, lower bellhousing bolts, bumper, intercooler, x member and cats. Push car down off ramps and carry on.

If you use an engine crane you may well be able to get away with the car staying on ramps given that you won't be lifting it far but the steep angle could make it impossible to get the engine back in just right to line up the gearbox input shaft through the clutch into the spigot bearing. Getting the engine and gearbox back together isn't easy and take plenty of time to ensure your clutch plate alignment is spot on before you put the engine back. I didn't have one but borrowing a loose input shaft from someone to use for alignment would be a good idea. I'd put the front of the car up on ramps then jack the back up and put on axle stands so all 4 wheels are off the ground and car is level.

John

[Alistair E]

Engine is now out. Took a bit of messing about and became quite time consuming. I was going to disconnect the downpipe from the turbo end but gave up when I couldn't get to the fourth nut. Ended up cutting the bolts joining the downpipe to the cats, they had just rusted away.
Well, it may be that I didn't have to do all this but I had intended to do some work on the engine oil leaks etc.
The clutch plate is in good condition for 140k and still had some life left in it. Pressure plate and release bearing both seem ok aswell. However the rod inside the gearbox which pushes the release bearing seems suspect. I've not fully inspected it but it seems a bit wobbly (technical term).
It's held in a bellows inside the box but I'm unsure of the way it connects to the slave cylinder. I pulled the rod forwards a touch and now it is loose inside the bellows, i.e. not held in any sort of guide.
I've left it for the moment and have been concentrating on the engine. The head is off and the bores seem in very good condition with nothing having a great deal of coke on it. Pistons are very clean. I've bought a head gasket set but I will also need some exhaust gaskets from around the turbo area. I was shocked by the dealer prices and was wondering whether anyone could suggest an alternative supplier?

Any suggestions on the slave cylinder rod would also be appreciated.


Alistair

[ericd]

...usually end up putting in new slave (as they've potential to disintegrate if handled too much )

you got any pics, is the slave still in one useable piece ?

[Alistair E]

Eric

Not got any pics at the mo. Haven't looked at the slave properly yet as I'm working on the engine in the garage rather than outside in the cold and dark. I will try and take pics tonight.

Would someone tell me, is the pushrod and bellows inside the bellhousing part of the actual slave cylinder. Reading through past posts it sounds like it is and it is pushed through the housing and bolted in place. Would someone confirm.

Thanks

Alistair