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Big Thanks to Aelred for this.........
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The get to the clutch out:
If I were you I will make a cradle to fit a trolley jack to support the box so you can use that to do the lifting and dropping as the box is very heavy and even with 2 people it will be hard to lift the box in place and push it forward as you are working laying down. Your arms will get tired very quickly.
1 From memory you only have to disconnect the cats.
2 Remove the steering rack the arms from the rack. The steering arms will have to be disconnected at the rack end and tie them up somewhere higher up then when bolted to the steering rack. This is because the bell housing has a square at the top that will not clear the arms if they are bolted up. The g/box has to go backwards before it can go down. The g/box has to go backwards before it can go down.
3 Undo prop and drive shafts at g/box end.
4 undo the g/linkage at the gearbox end,
5 undo the bolts on the sub frame rubber mounts
6 remove Speedo and reversing light plugs
7 undo the bell housing bolts and remove starter, (disconnect battery obviously)
8 you could either undo the sub frame 4 bolts and let it hang or remove the g/box mounts. The engine will not fall out as it is supported on the chassis and by having the sub frame hanging it will give you more room, especially as you have some bell housing bolts that are difficult to remove with the sub frame in situ. The sub frame will be in your way a little and maybe you can tie out of the way.
9 jack up the front of the engine as far as it will go.
10 Slide the gearbox out partially.
11 before you totally drop the gearbox (about 6") remove the slave cylinder.
12 drop the box. If you have a 6 speed box ABY engine there will also be a 10mm spacer all the way round the mating faces of the bellhop using and engine that will have to go back in place also.
I would suggest that you change the slave for a new one as it is a pig to change in situ #4A0 721 261 and bleeder #443 616 789
13 remove clutch and align and fit new one
14 Make sure that you align the clutch splines with the centre of the spigot bearing if not you will never get the box back in. There are tools for doing this; I have done them by eye with a good degree of success.
14 more or less refit is reversal of the above
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU SLIDE THE G/BOX BACK IN THE PIPE TO THE HEATER MATRIX DOES NOT GET JAMMED BETWEEN ENGINE AND BELL HOUSING WITH ITS "L" BRACKET AND ANY ELECTRICAL WIRES ARE WAY AWAY I TEND TO CABLE TIE THEM OUT OF THE WAY FROM THE START
Bleed new slave.
Ideally you need a workshop ramp as you will be working under, above, under above many times and also a transmission jack to support the g/box.
You will need a helping hand as the g/box is very heavy, I would not do it on my own if I can help it.
I have done this on the floor with no ramp but it is a little of a pig as you can only jack up the car so far and you will have little room
If all goes well you should be able to do it in a full day
Good luck and let me know if i can be of some help.
Another alternative will be to remove the complete engine gearbox from the front, but this will take you longer
Rgds
Aelred
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The get to the clutch out:
If I were you I will make a cradle to fit a trolley jack to support the box so you can use that to do the lifting and dropping as the box is very heavy and even with 2 people it will be hard to lift the box in place and push it forward as you are working laying down. Your arms will get tired very quickly.
1 From memory you only have to disconnect the cats.
2 Remove the steering rack the arms from the rack. The steering arms will have to be disconnected at the rack end and tie them up somewhere higher up then when bolted to the steering rack. This is because the bell housing has a square at the top that will not clear the arms if they are bolted up. The g/box has to go backwards before it can go down. The g/box has to go backwards before it can go down.
3 Undo prop and drive shafts at g/box end.
4 undo the g/linkage at the gearbox end,
5 undo the bolts on the sub frame rubber mounts
6 remove Speedo and reversing light plugs
7 undo the bell housing bolts and remove starter, (disconnect battery obviously)
8 you could either undo the sub frame 4 bolts and let it hang or remove the g/box mounts. The engine will not fall out as it is supported on the chassis and by having the sub frame hanging it will give you more room, especially as you have some bell housing bolts that are difficult to remove with the sub frame in situ. The sub frame will be in your way a little and maybe you can tie out of the way.
9 jack up the front of the engine as far as it will go.
10 Slide the gearbox out partially.
11 before you totally drop the gearbox (about 6") remove the slave cylinder.
12 drop the box. If you have a 6 speed box ABY engine there will also be a 10mm spacer all the way round the mating faces of the bellhop using and engine that will have to go back in place also.
I would suggest that you change the slave for a new one as it is a pig to change in situ #4A0 721 261 and bleeder #443 616 789
13 remove clutch and align and fit new one
14 Make sure that you align the clutch splines with the centre of the spigot bearing if not you will never get the box back in. There are tools for doing this; I have done them by eye with a good degree of success.
14 more or less refit is reversal of the above
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU SLIDE THE G/BOX BACK IN THE PIPE TO THE HEATER MATRIX DOES NOT GET JAMMED BETWEEN ENGINE AND BELL HOUSING WITH ITS "L" BRACKET AND ANY ELECTRICAL WIRES ARE WAY AWAY I TEND TO CABLE TIE THEM OUT OF THE WAY FROM THE START
Bleed new slave.
Ideally you need a workshop ramp as you will be working under, above, under above many times and also a transmission jack to support the g/box.
You will need a helping hand as the g/box is very heavy, I would not do it on my own if I can help it.
I have done this on the floor with no ramp but it is a little of a pig as you can only jack up the car so far and you will have little room
If all goes well you should be able to do it in a full day
Good luck and let me know if i can be of some help.
Another alternative will be to remove the complete engine gearbox from the front, but this will take you longer
Rgds
Aelred
. Never worked on an S2 before so it's taking a tad longer than it should, I've done an 80 tdi before but this is a wee bit different.
. Seem to have most of the car dismantled to get it out , took the subframe out as it gave more access.
. I would imagine it is a 'nicer' way of doing things.
.
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