Bedding in Clutch?

[Knight Rider S4]

Right before I go mental ...Need to cover off a few things

I have just finished of the 3B engine fitted and running

Engine is running great..could of not wished for better but !!!!

When driving the clutch is slipping badly when it hits the crazy power(1.9bar) in higher gears..but when in low seems to be ok ...strange?...Before I lose the nut at the new clutch provider guy and shove the clutch sideways were the sun dont shine ...I have to be clear it is at fault or needing bed in so on

Before I took the engine out i was having the same problem with clutch slipping which i put down to knackered clutch..but when taking off ,the friction plate has not bad wear (no were near the rivets)..and the only blame would be the pressure plate ?


So with having two clutch problems ..is it possible that I may be have a issue with slave cylinder and bent rod scenario sticking and causing clutch to slip?


What would be the classic signs of slave failure,rod sticking?

Putting the car in gear is no problem and reverse is easy to ..only thing I would say the clutch bites quite high up the pedal?...Is there adjustment there?


Cheers


Steve

[JP]

If a clutch slips it puts contaminents into the micro pores of the flywheel surface. Automatically any new clutch fittd will start slipping if the flywheel has not been refaced. Secondly you want to be staying of high boost and full throttle passes for at least the first 500 miles to ensure that the newly faced flywheel has the opportunity to bed in.

The fact that the clutch bites high up the pedal indicates the slave cylinder is functioning fine and has been proper.ly bled as everytime you press the pedal the rod is thrown out a good distance. Depending on your driving style this can sometimes cause one to drive with the clutch partially disengaged solely by resting the foot on the clutch pedal instead of the clutch footrest which again can lead to clutch slip.

[Knight Rider S4]

The flywheel looked ok ..but never got it refaced so maybe issue there....Will give it a few more miles, if no joy will whip off the gearbox and replace the flywheel ...Think the first underlying issue is why did the first one slip as the friction plate was ok ..pressure plate maybe

Edit ..must admit only slipped at very high boost so maybe taking it easy first will help...settle in...Organic Plate if that makes a difference?

[DJones]

The flywheel looked ok ..but never got it refaced so maybe issue there....Will give it a few more miles, if no joy will whip off the gearbox and replace the flywheel ...Think the first underlying issue is why did the first one slip as the friction plate was ok ..pressure plate maybe

Edit ..must admit only slipped at very high boost so maybe taking it easy first will help...settle in...Organic Plate if that makes a difference?

Don't let it slip again. When an organic clutch slips it raises resins to the surface (the horrible smell you get) of the driven plate which help it slip further.

The clutch biting a long way up the peddle dont sound right.. there is no adjustment at the slave cylinder end but there is on the master cylinder rod. When i set them i set the peddle so that you can feel a small amount of free play in the peddle before the piston takes up pressure (if that makes sense)

Try opening the bleed valve on the slave it may help the ratio between the two cylinders to settle.

If a clutch is going to slip it will always do it in the higher gears, the engine produces torque and the higher gears hold it back and the clutch slips, in lower gears it will just accelerate.

I have previously had the clamping force increased by adding more leaf springs to the diaphragm.

Hope it helps.

Darren.

[Knight Rider S4]

Cheers..

Will try the pedal and see if the helps what point do you go for when biting..half way up?..With regard the slave cylinder would i just be best bleeding the system /put new fluid through it as it probably never been changed for a long time ...will take it easy on the car and make sure no high boosting

Note:I have just spoken to the previous owner of the car and he said the clutch was replaced 20,000miles ago ,so should of not been slipping really as that is pretty low mileage for a clutch to go and the car was running standard power when he had it so no real pressure on the clutch

[DJones]

You cant adjust it for when it bites, not easily or recommended at least. You just want to ensure there is no preload on the slave hence a small amount of travel on the pedle prior to any pressure being felt.

Always a good idea to change the fluid if its not been done.

[Knight Rider S4]

You cant adjust it for when it bites, not easily or recommended at least. You just want to ensure there is no preload on the slave hence a small amount of travel on the pedle prior to any pressure being felt.

.

That makes sense ..will try it this weekend and see it helps

[SteveH]

What engine spec do you have and what turbo? I found the RS2 turbo, mapped to the limits, would slip everything I threw at it.

[Knight Rider S4]

RS2 turbo . 034 Rep RS2 Injectors ,7A Ex Cam ,standard inlet, RS2 EM , RS2 Airbox , S/S 2.75" Exhaust no cats and mapped to 75% limit

[bluequattro]

exactly the same problems happengin to my car, hence posts about new clutches.
im going to try a kestrel one i think next week
only running 320 ish bhp at m
my clutch is fine low revs/gears, when boost comes in its like a parachute not a rocket!
was ok when i had rubbish tyres, just spun the wheels in gear, now with better tyres the clutch is the weak point.
does this mean when i fix the clutch something else will break?

[Knight Rider S4]

Post 7 ..Grind flywheel,Kevlar clutch and i am sorted

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35111