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Should be lightish with a low bit point, I had a new clutch last year (fitted by the wizard) and the bite point on that is between 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal travel and a decent weight (lightish) too,
My old 3B had a paddle style clutch that had a high biting point though bout inch and 1/2 fom top, felt weird and no matter how much bleeding was done stayed at the top.
Dark Grey Avant
RS2 FARB
Powerflex Front wishbone bushes
Alloy Subframe Bushes
Coming home on Tuesday, Just went out for a drive and its slipping above 2500rpm now, that's still in vacuum too. I hope its going to make it! Top speed is about 50mph so the 500mile trip is going to be huge amounts of fun!
Same was, when I've burned my clutch on the track. It lasted around 500km with not getting worse, but it was clearly friction material failure (burned). I can even spin wheels on 1st gear, but that speed limiter (around 100km/h) took me nuts. If it's only friction material problem, there's old trick (around 30 years old, don't know if it is valid on newer cars). You take canifolia (don't know if it's in english - rosin maybe, it's pine tree juice after getting hard - something like amber, used to solder or for musical instruments like violin strings), dissolve it in alcohol (isopropyl preferred, easy to get in electronics store) to get some medium thick fluid, and then with squirt/syringe poured into the clutch through the holes into gearbox. Not sure how to do it in S2, because AFAIK clutch disk is not exposed to any of the holes. And clutch should be disengaged at that moment. When you slip clutch, canifolia melts and burns, leaving some residue, which is increasing friction.
I have a new clutch to go on but havent done it yet, I didnt dare to attempt it on the pebble drive and am waiting for garage space to free up. Shouldnt be long now though.. i hope.....
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