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How To Bleed The Clutch

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  • #16
    Thanks for tips, managed to get mine bled today. Probably the first time it has been done
    Greg

    S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

    '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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    • #17
      Bet some nice gunk came out of that lol
      sigpic

      1992 3b S2 Coupe

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      • #18
        It wasnt as bad as I thought, old fluid was more of an orange colour and new quite clear so it was easy to tell when the fresh stuff was coming through. Tried doing it with a stubby 11mm spanner, but couldnt get enough purchase so had to borrow an 11mm deep socket.
        Greg

        S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

        '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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        • #19
          This is a big help, as i will be doing mine this weekend

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          • #20
            Searched for over 20 minutes on my 3b to find the nipple.

            Attached 3 Pictures of where it is placed on my 3b


            nip1.jpg nip2.jpg nip3.jpg
            Audi S2 Coupe
            Audi A6 C7
            VW T5

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            • #21
              yeah it isnt the most accessible to get to. I bled mine a while back and it had some really old fluid stuck in it
              Greg

              S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

              '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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              • #22
                Hello All:
                Recently I tried to get my S2 Coupé (3B) in position for changing the master cylinder, when the clutch pedal fell down. Thanks to several pictures and posts here and in other forums I first managed to SEE the culprit way down and the leakage. Thanks to a slim arm and hand I could even reach and feel the bleeding nipple, the brake line, and the bolt.
                I have a new slave cylinder at hand but before I start, I kindly ask for your advice if anyone who changed the slave cylinder has a specific tip. Theoretically everything is clear but it is so tight there that I wonder if the necessary tools find their place for the action. Finally to get the cylinder out after 30 years ...
                There is a hose, which one can probably move a bit and fix it out of the way. Otherwise some steel pipes and nothing easily to detach.
                Is there any chance to get to the cylinder's site from underneath?
                I have read several tips for putting the new one in. It may be tedious and time consuming like the bleeding procedure, but I am confident.
                Your comments and advice are highly appreciated.
                Many thanks and enjoy the EM final WE
                Manfred

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                • #23
                  Take the LH drive shaft out to give you much more room, leave the wheel off too, makes getting under much easier.

                  The bolt will likely be tight, very tight after 30 years like mine was, I ended up with extensions coming out the wheel arch so I could get enough leverage to undo it.

                  Yes you can access from underneath, it is all tight, but certainly a little easier than from above, and you don't gash yourself on the mounting bolt for the ABS block.

                  Buy a decent quality one, some seem longer than others, which makes fitting even more difficult.

                  Bleeding is easy, honestly, do a first bleed with a pressure bleeder, then put the pedal to the floor, then bleed again and you should have pedal.

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                  • #24
                    Thanks a lot Bowie! I'll try your tips, working from underneath, makes more sense if any extension will be needed - but leave the drive shaft as long as possible.
                    Will report here later when done (or not).

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                    • #25
                      Changing the master cylinder and pressure bleeding the brakes went well and easy. I could reach the slave cylinder from underneath and from the back. Surprisingly the nipple (11 mm) was very easy to open. BTW the special Hazet brake-line wrench didn't fit over that nipple, while it did so at the wheels!?
                      So I bled the hydraulic line thoroughly from the top, moving the clutch pedal by hand a couple of times. After closing the nipple, the pedal stayed up and worked as supposed. I am very happy that I didn't have to change the slave cylinder, and I hope that all was just due to some air and (very) old hydraulic fluid.
                      Also interesting and maybe good to know: My replacement slave cyl. from Meyle has a 10 mm nipple.

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