Diff Function By Hand?!

[willg54]

Right...here's the crack..

I was cleaning the diff off and noticed i was knocking some dirt down the left output flange...so i took it off as i was worried the dirt may sit on a seal. Easy enough.

When i took it out i noticed there was a thin washer behind the splined shaft, popped that to the back, all good.

Cleaned it up, put it back in but now the diff seems a bit strange!

When i turn the outputs, the opposite side rotates in the opposite direction, fine. But when i turn the input flange, the right rotates fine but the left hardly moves...i know this isnt normal.

There is a slight knocking noise inside when you turn the flanges too...is it possible the washer has fallen down inside?

Also, what torque should that bolt be done up to that hold the flange on?

Didnt want to do a diff rebuild....

Cheers

Will

[Phil Payne]

Also, what torque should that bolt be done up to that hold the flange on?

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/torque.html

Note the 'always replace'.

[s2driveruk]

i think from memory if it was the long cap head bolt then its something really light like 6nm and they are also stretch bolts and should be replaced (BTDT) did you retrieve the washer and refit or?

[willg54]

Note the 'always replace'.

That bolt should be replaced then??

Possible i did this up to tight when i put it back on causing these issues?

[willg54]

i think from memory if it was the long cap head bolt then its something really light like 6nm and they are also stretch bolts and should be replaced (BTDT) did you retrieve the washer and refit or?

I noticed the washer as i looked inside. I just pushed it to the back when the splined shaft would go back to. or atleast i thought....

[Error404]

remember its an open diff so it will always take the path of least resistance, more importantly if you turn both output shafts together it should turn smoothly with no clunking, any play here is backlash. Slack between the output flanges is in the plantary gears - you can reshim those up to point. Those shims you found are only there to clock the flange shoulder to the diff carrier so that the bolt torques it down properly, some diffs don't even have them in there

[willg54]

i think i may be being paranoid

Just went back and played with it, turning the output flange, there is no noise but just a slight knock to touch. this will just be the teeth engaging...

No noises when you turn the outputs together or from the input.

Is it normal for one output shaft to no really turn at all though?

[Error404]

in an ideal world no as the resistance to both output flanges should be the same, so the spider gears would not be forced to rotate inside the diff carrier, but in practice that is almost impossible to achieve with bearing preloads etc the "rolling" resistance of each output is rarely/never perfectly identical side to side

[driftin jo]

in an ideal world no as the resistance to both output flanges should be the same, so the spider gears would not be forced to rotate inside the diff carrier, but in practice that is almost impossible to achieve with bearing preloads etc the "rolling" resistance of each output is rarely/never perfectly identical side to side

[driftin jo]

i think i may be being paranoid

Just went back and played with it, turning the output flange, there is no noise but just a slight knock to touch. this will just be the teeth engaging...

No noises when you turn the outputs together or from the input.

Is it normal for one output shaft to no really turn at all though?

Just Because You're Paranoid it Doesn't Mean They're Not Out to Get You

[Error404]