Slave Cylinder removal.

[Ryss]

I need to remove the slave cyl. From a type 85 Quattro. Think it the same for the S2, URs4. Could do with some how to do tips.

Manual says there is a pin that holds the slave cyl in place. I see on my car it is hollow and did some research on the outer dia of the pin so that using a drift punch, the pin can be knocked out. I see on the www that the nominal size is 6mm - any drift between about 4.5mm and 5.5mm will work. Can anybody confirm?

Secondly I thought to leave the hydraulic pipe work connected, so that to get the slave cyl out the gearbox, all I need to do is push on the clutch, instead on trying to lever the slave cyl out the gearbox. Am I bit worried as to whether the slave cyl will clear the gear selector that's just behind the slave cyl.

Thanks in anticipation.

[djh]

if its anything like a s2 if you leave the pipe connected and sit inside the car and press on the clutch, yes it will push the cylinder out but it will only get so far then pop the seal/pin and ruin the cylinder and anything the fluid goes over so not worth the risk.

[Ryss]

Hmm.. I see no retaining circlip for the piston. Thanks .. good one.

[Val]

Am I bit worried as to whether the slave cyl will clear the gear selector that's just behind the slave cyl.

Yes, it will. Did the same thing today. After half of it full length, you need to pull it out in angle to the left front door.
Did it in 1.5 hours by taking off gearbox. Gearbox off 3rd time in 2 weeks.

[Ryss]

OK took me half and hour to get it out. This is what I did.

Made a drift punch from an old 5mm allen key, by cutting the bend off and putting it in a drill. Switched the drill on and used an mini angle grinder to create a step at the one end so it would locate inside the roll pin and push on the sides of the roll pin.

Put the steering on full right lock and first tried to hold the allen key in a vice grip while hammering on the end of the allen key punch. Did not work. Held the allen key between my fingers and manged to knock the pin out.

Slowly depressed the clutch, so that the slave cylinder would be pushed out. Ended up the the clutch fully depressed and the slave cylinder still located in the gearbox. Put the gear lever in 1st gear to clear the gear change linkage and wiggled the slave cylinder out.

Made the a new push rod that was 5mm longer and refitted. Results exactly the same. Clutch still dragging. Then realized the slave cylinder is self adjusting and has only one length of travel. You live and learn...So it's engine out and off the the crowd that build the button clutch so that it can be sorted out.

Pitty because that's no fun.

[Phil Payne]

I see on the www that the nominal size is 6mm - any drift between about 4.5mm and 5.5mm will work. Can anybody confirm?

I guess you're reading my web page - I don't see that there's any need to 'confirm' anything.

According to ETKA:

AQS/1988/7/21/59-00 items 32B and 36.

36 is the original roll pin - 6mmx36mm

Audi stopped using this pin sometime in the very late 1980s - the 20V lists a bolt here (but the wrong size - neat one, Audi) and some late MBs have it too.

Instead of Audis's M8x30 try an M6x35 shanked bolt.