SM vs DM flywheel opinions

[Colesy]

Toying with the idea of converting my ABY to a SM flywheel setup. Have had a read around and didn't find many threads that really discuss the pro's and con's of each setup so looking for help deciding.

All I've managed to gather really is that DM is more refined and the SM more sporty but not entirely sure what exactly that tranlates to when driving!

Any help much appreciated!

[K Simmonds]

There's not that much diference when driving, but having driven both I'd say the SM feels a little more responsive than the DM, there is quite a diference in weight. However the DM set up feels more smooth and refined, what puts me off the DM more than anything is the cost of a replacement unit. The ones on the S2's don't seem to fail anywhere near as much as the ones found on newer Audi's/VW's but they are all dam expensive to replace.

[UrS4boy]

The DM flyweel was developed to help take up the shock to the driveline (and engine) during shifting. Going back to a SM flywheel requires, at a minimum, a well-sprung clutch disc (not needed with a DM flywheel).

Here is a post with hyperlinks that might help you figure out what you want to do:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24723.phtml

[driftin jo]

Having a lighter flywheel mainly affects acceleration off the line as the speed increase proportional
to engine revs is at its highest, thus first gear will have the biggest increase in performance then second slightly less and so on.
Here is some detailed information for you to have a read of.


http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/FLYWHEEL.htm


Based on this changing from an ABY dual mass to a 3B would have as much affect on acceleration in first gear as removing ~100kg of weight from your car !

[Jamo]

I prefer the DM over the SM I have now, but as said the price of the DM is high and I believe they are now NLA

[Billman]

I still have the dual mass from the RS2 btu I would not use it in any car that is mainly for having fun.

I don't see the point in a car with low profile/big wheels, hard suspension, PU thingy, whistling turbo, blow off valve and big exhaust.

[Rusty]

I've run an SM FW for some time. It does give a bit more vibration at <1400rpm but that could also be down to the DP, which was changed at the same time and is yet to have a flexi welded in, and the fact that the gearbox mounts are at the limit of their alignment, due to the spacer being removed (I have some offset subframe bushes that will relieve this issue though).

The car is more responsive and there was a marked improvement in first and second gear acceleration. Downside is that I really should get the crank/pulley/SM/clutch assy balanced to ensure that things are 'perfect' and not just 'OK'.

Overall (as above):

• Weekend and occasiuonal track use - SM
• Cruiser or daily driver - DM

It's also worth noting that a stock clutch on a DM will take more torque than a stock clutch on an SM setup and som that might affect the cost of the cheaper SM option. I run an Audi clutch (LUK I think) and it seemed to handle a chipped ABY setup easily enough; even with some properly harsh launches. I'm yet to discover what it'll be like with a bit more ooomph going through it.