gearbox removal with engine out

[andyg plym]

need to remove the gearbox shortly,the engine is already out.
with the engine out i can easily get to the driveshafts and bolts etc,but baring in mind i am doing all this on the floor whats best to get the box out now,i can get to the gearbox mounts easily enough and the prop bolts are all out (apart from 2 rounded ones on the rear diff end)?

is it best to jack it up or do it on ramps?i was thinking get one end on ramps and one end on axle stands? thanks for help chaps

[K Simmonds]

How I'd do this and I've done it a couple of times so know it works and is fast and safe, is as follows.

Use jacks and axle stands at the front to get easy access those Two prop bolts and the main gear linkage rod bolt. Undo these, then drop the car back on to it wheels. With the engine out the front end will be high enough and access from the bay so good it will allow you to undo the gear box mounts from the box as well as the subframe/chassis easy enough. Get the complete mounts out the way with a jack under the back of the box to stop it dropping. The bell-housing will sit on the subframe, you could put a bit of wood there if your worried about damaging anything but it really not necessary.

Then pull the box out through the engine bay as opposed to dropping it out from
underneath.

Job done.

EDIT, just noticed the two damaged prop bolts are at the diff end, so obviously you don't need to undo these to remove the box. Tackle these another time with rear of the car raised on axle stands.

[andyg plym]

sounds ideal,thanks for reply.so i can actually bring the whole box out through the engine bay area? obviously the trolley jack is on wheels so would slowly creep forward whilst supporting the box. yes?

[K Simmonds]

sounds ideal,thanks for reply.so i can actually bring the whole box out through the engine bay area? obviously the trolley jack is on wheels so would slowly creep forward whilst supporting the box. yes?

Yep, you've got it. Exacting like that. It's easier with another pair of hands but far from essential.

I've done by myself in the rain on mud or a trailer without a jack before now, just stuck concrete blocks or wood under the box to stop it dropping and pulled the ****** out from there in under 1/2 an hour.

[andyg plym]

ok ideal,regarding the rear diff can it be removed (avant by the way-longer) without dropping rear subframe?

or is it best just to drop the lot then re-raise the subframe after?

[WidowmakerS2]

I know it's kind of wrong, but after i had rounded of most of the bolts on my prop, i beat a torx socket with a slightly bigger head in there to get them out. The knocking helps to loosen any rust too really.

[andyg plym]

yes i can see me doing the same thing,its so hard with no ramp

[K Simmonds]

Once you get the prop out the way, the mounts off and the drive shafts undone the rear diff can be removed without too much bother on axle stands.

Personally though, when breaking an Avant I put the car on Axel stands and drop the the entire rear suspension and subframe in one go, hub's, brakes, shafts diff the lot. And drag it out from under the car to strip down on on the floor, sooooo much easier.

Just remember to unplug the ABS sensors inside the car and feed the wire's through first, as well as disconnecting the connections to the the diff lock.

Then I winch the shell onto a car trailer using a coupe of round post's or scaffold polls as rollers. I've also done it without rollers, just dragged the thing on there, tends to make a bit of a mess of your drive this way.

same applies to the front, support the car on stands, preferably the height of the back of your trailer and drop the the whole lot off.

Pop the trailer under the front end and winch her on. I tell you it's much easier than it sounds

[Knight Rider S4]

The rounded bolts come off easier when you hit a socket over them , think it is 12mm , I have done this on many occasion !!

[4WheelDrifter]

The rounded bolts come off easier when you hit a socket over them , think it is 12mm , I have done this on many occasion !!

Seconded.

I used a propped up plank to rest the box on while I undid everything, then used the plank as a lever to lower onto a tube, then rolled it on out the front. If that makes sense.



I refitted the box using the same method in reverse.

[andyg plym]

i removed the rear diff today,and thought id take my time: should i remove it with the subframe,should i remove by itself etc

well i can honestly say,remove the whole lot together,it was my first time doing a subframe and to be honest if id of known how quick it would of been i would of gone down that route from the off.

if you are reading this and toying with the idea of working on the diff,or sub mounts etc just get the whole lot off as one

[K Simmonds]

i removed the rear diff today,and thought id take my time: should i remove it with the subframe,should i remove by itself etc

well i can honestly say,remove the whole lot together,it was my first time doing a subframe and to be honest if id of known how quick it would of been i would of gone down that route from the off.

if you are reading this and toying with the idea of working on the diff,or sub mounts etc just get the whole lot off as one

You have seen the light

Much easier working on the the whole shooting match on the deck.

Just drag the shell onto the trailer on jacks or bit of wood.