Clutch / brake bomb / fluid level problem

[karlblues2]

Not sure if they are related, but here goes. When the car has stood overnight, hydraulic fluid is at top level. No problem. After car has been running for a while, clutch feels like it's got no pressure, and sticks to the floor occasionally. Not a nice feeling. Also, when hot, the hydraulic fluid has dropped to below the minimum line on the bottle Are the two issues related, or is my clutch (master or slave) cylinder on its way out? The clutch itself was replaced about 10000km ago. Now I know that the brake bomb is on its way out, as my brake light flashes for a bit as I assume, the bomb has to use more fluid to compensate for the lack of nitrogen in there to build up pressure. Is this correct What should I look for with the clutch
Any help welcome guys
Thanks
Karl
Oz

[karlblues2]

Any thoughts guys?

Anyone any idea on this I am suppose to be going to the track on Saturday, but the clutch feels like it's working merely off the spring
Any help will be welcome
Cheers
Karl
Oz

[Graham]

Hi Karl, If your fluid drops that will be the amount of fluid the bomb needs to charge up. (If it is leaking the fluid will drain back to the reservior over night-filling it up again) Besides the clutch works off the brake fluid reservoir not the hydraulic system (Pump, Bomb, etc.) . If the pedal stays to the floor it could be a few things. These cars dont have a servo assisted clutch just a manual hydraulic Sytem. And there isnt many components in the system. The fault could be:

1) Worst case scenario, the pressure plate in the clutch could have baked and lost its tension on the pressure plate. Or the operating arm which pushes the release bearing has siezed (Requires Gearbox out, and to test for this, see if you can push the lever yourself what the slave cylinder operates. the tension should be too strong to move it without leverage. You cannot test the arm without removing the box)The arm is unlikely so seize, and if the clutch has done 10,000km it shouldnt be that unless it was installed wrong, and worn out prematurely.

2) The Slave cylinder is sticky, and is slow returning. (Debris in the cylinder, or rust in the cylinder, or contaminated fluid causing slave cyl to fail. Has it been flushed?)

3) Master Cylinder return spring or linkage failed, or rust in the cylinder bore. (These are relatively simple to replace.)

4)If the wrong fluid has been put in, this could rot the seals not only in the clutch system, but the brake system aswell. But the pedals should still return.

I would try a full flush with some nice 5.1 (NOT 5.0!), to see if this helps.
Hope this helps, see you soon in OZ, were hoping to go on the 16th May. But now in a split desicion between Adelaide where i have family to help us start a new life, or Cairns where we have Friends and the wage is alot more for my trade.

[S2 Ant]

As above would suggest bleeding the clutch to see if there is air in there or not, as the fluid take off for the clutch is v close to the top of the resevoir it could be easily done.

The slave cylinder takes a lot of punishment and is an easy and cheap thing to replace also if need be, the master is more expensive but again is an easily replaced item.

Might just need a proper bleed tho.

[karlblues2]

Hi Karl, If your fluid drops that will be the amount of fluid the bomb needs to charge up. (If it is leaking the fluid will drain back to the reservior over night-filling it up again) Besides the clutch works off the brake fluid reservoir not the hydraulic system (Pump, Bomb, etc.) . If the pedal stays to the floor it could be a few things. These cars dont have a servo assisted clutch just a manual hydraulic Sytem. And there isnt many components in the system. The fault could be:

1) Worst case scenario, the pressure plate in the clutch could have baked and lost its tension on the pressure plate. Or the operating arm which pushes the release bearing has siezed (Requires Gearbox out, and to test for this, see if you can push the lever yourself what the slave cylinder operates. the tension should be too strong to move it without leverage. You cannot test the arm without removing the box)The arm is unlikely so seize, and if the clutch has done 10,000km it shouldnt be that unless it was installed wrong, and worn out prematurely.

2) The Slave cylinder is sticky, and is slow returning. (Debris in the cylinder, or rust in the cylinder, or contaminated fluid causing slave cyl to fail. Has it been flushed?)

3) Master Cylinder return spring or linkage failed, or rust in the cylinder bore. (These are relatively simple to replace.)

4)If the wrong fluid has been put in, this could rot the seals not only in the clutch system, but the brake system aswell. But the pedals should still return.

I would try a full flush with some nice 5.1 (NOT 5.0!), to see if this helps.
Hope this helps, see you soon in OZ, were hoping to go on the 16th May. But now in a split desicion between Adelaide where i have family to help us start a new life, or Cairns where we have Friends and the wage is alot more for my trade.

Thanks heaps for that Graham. I've got a lot of checking to do! I think I'll start with a full bleed. I checked the moisture content and it was 34% moisture in the fluid Is this normal???
Cheers
BTW - If you go to Cairns, you'll need a water spray cooling kit for the S2 for about 6months plus of the year ...And you'll be closer to Brisvegas (Brisbane) Barrier Reef etc etc....and your friends in Adelaide will have somewhere nice to come and visit you
As for helping you out when you first get there. Queenslanders are probably the friendliest bunch of beer drinking chaps and chapesses I've ever met, so settling in won't be a problem. I have a mate who lived in Cairns for years sitting next to me. I'll give you his email address through a PM and you can ask him specifics
Hope this helps (Oh and the Rugby's better in Queensland too!!!)
Karl
Canberrrrrra (which today is at 38 degrees C!)

[karlblues2]

As above would suggest bleeding the clutch to see if there is air in there or not, as the fluid take off for the clutch is v close to the top of the resevoir it could be easily done.

The slave cylinder takes a lot of punishment and is an easy and cheap thing to replace also if need be, the master is more expensive but again is an easily replaced item.

Might just need a proper bleed tho.

Hoorah!!!!
Just had brakes and slave clutch cylinder bled, and guess what...I have brake feel back again and the clutch doesn't stick at the bottom any more
Apparently the DOT5.1 had boiled but might have been contaminated by the old stuff in there and wasn't bled properly the first time
Very happy at the moment. Off to the track tomorrow for a baseline run out before I fit the new goodies next week Still have over rich mixture though Reckon it might be the MAF? Anyone know how much a new one is????
Cheer all for your help
Karl
Oz

[horvathg]

Pardon me but how do we bleed clutch slave cylinder?

[4WheelDrifter]

Is it wise to use DOT5 fluid? I thought the lubricating properties weren't as good as DOT4, and can be more prone to piston siezure. Just a thought.

[Beetie]

I got told dont use DOT5.0, but use DOT5.1

[Graham]

DOT 5.0 is a synthetic silicone based fluid, our systems use mineral oil and silicone/synthetic fluids can rot the seals out of the system - which would be expensive and dangerous. DOT 5.1 is mineral based (safe to use)and has supposedly the same performance as synthetic.