AAN flywheel

[hunker7]

Do AAN come with dual-mass flywheel or solid one? My S4 vibrates when idling, not really bad, but gear-stick shakes about, vibration reduces when I press the clutch? I assume it could be the flywheel?

[sailaz]

what about vibration damper 054105251J

http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/A6Q/1996/175/49/2112873/

[andy10v]

Do AAN come with dual-mass flywheel or solid one?

AAN has a dual mass flywheel.

[UrS4boy]

C4 UrS Transmission Mounts

Do AAN come with dual-mass flywheel or solid one? My S4 vibrates when idling, not really bad, but gear-stick shakes about, vibration reduces when I press the clutch? I assume it could be the flywheel?

Sorry. Had to chuckle. Do you think putting the clutch in disengages the flywheel from the engine? NO, it obviously does not.

However, putting the clutch in at idle stops the transmission gears from rotating in neutral. SO...this leads to a conclusion that the transmission is the source of the vibration and the shaking of the gear level results from poor/bad/broken transmission mounts. They are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to replace. They will most likely reduce that shaking at idle significantly as well as make shifting on the go better.

[macspring]

Janis, my tuppence / opinion would be for you to use oem quality gearbox mounts, and not to be tempted to use uprated /stiffer ones, as you will introduce necessary / unwanted NVH to the car. oem power levels or homefried power is nicely matched to oem quality stiffness mounts.

If your gearbox mounts are faulty, also check your engine mounts. Same advice as above applies.

Remind us of the mileage on the chassis / engine ?

Get the original part number and see if Lemforder make them, or Febi if you're stuck.

HTH.

Regards.

[Rikki Kitto]

If they haven't been changed since new you might as well do the lot, diff, gearbox, engine mounts Etc I did all mine recently and it makes a massive difference

[hunker7]

Janis, my tuppence / opinion would be for you to use oem quality gearbox mounts, and not to be tempted to use uprated /stiffer ones, as you will introduce necessary / unwanted NVH to the car. oem power levels or homefried power is nicely matched to oem quality stiffness mounts.

If your gearbox mounts are faulty, also check your engine mounts. Same advice as above applies.

Remind us of the mileage on the chassis / engine ?

Get the original part number and see if Lemforder make them, or Febi if you're stuck.

HTH.

Regards.

Car has done 181k miles. I'll look into that thanks.

If they haven't been changed since new you might as well do the lot, diff, gearbox, engine mounts Etc I did all mine recently and it makes a massive difference

How much do the mounts cost, as I am planning on doing engine rebuild over summer so budget is tight.

Sorry. Had to chuckle. Do you think putting the clutch in disengages the flywheel from the engine? NO, it obviously does not.

However, putting the clutch in at idle stops the transmission gears from rotating in neutral. SO...this leads to a conclusion that the transmission is the source of the vibration and the shaking of the gear level results from poor/bad/broken transmission mounts. They are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to replace. They will most likely reduce that shaking at idle significantly as well as make shifting on the go better.

Dooh.

I know some work has been done to the suspension and I'm sure ssome mounts were done, I'll see which ones. Thanks for suggestions

[macspring]

181k mileage, noted, thanks.

I haven't been keeping up with each issue,

Can I ask why you think you need to rebuild the engine, curious, as I know from reading on here, and life in general, that whatever you think it is going to cost, you can double that cost and add in a bit more.

And knowing all of us on here, you'll suffer from a case of "while I'm in there'itis" which will add to the costs.

It would need to be something 'decent' / definitely wrong with the engine to stop you just soldering on with the existing engine, when one is on a tight budget.

Regards.

[hunker7]

I need to do a head rebuild as valve seals have given up. Compression is on minimum (9bar) so want to do rings, possibly get lower mile block if this isn't salvageable. Like to do all the sensors as they are all 23 years old nearly, get all the gaskets done as oil is coming out where possible. Loads work has gone into suspension but none in the engine. Then I can get it chipped and get LPG conversion done.

[macspring]

I see, so expense whichever way you do it.

Drive the car and do up a broken engine and swop it out, and sell on your broken engine to the next person who want to do the same as you just did.

or

Do your own engine, but the car is off the road ? So a bus pass or a cheap diesel or a bicycle.

[hunker7]

I see, so expense whichever way you do it.

Drive the car and do up a broken engine and swop it out, and sell on your broken engine to the next person who want to do the same as you just did.

or

Do your own engine, but the car is off the road ? So a bus pass or a cheap diesel or a bicycle.

I don't mind using bicycle. I will look into getting insurance that allows me to drive other cars too, so over summer I can use my dad's car. I would prepare for worse case scenario and buy parts before taking the engine part-so rebuild goes as quick as possible

[Error404]

Budget £5k for what you are describing

[hunker7]

Budget £5k for what you are describing

I am seriously struggling to understand where £5k comes from.

[Error404]

Well I've just done what you said you were going to do, (without LPG) and that's what it cost
I'm getting deja vu

[hunker7]

Well I've just done what you said you were going to do, and that's what it cost
I'm getting deja vu

So you're saying it'll cost me almost £5k in parts alone?