Wheel Wobble...

[chris.lilstar]

where'd you source the damper?


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[Rusty]

Got my new steering damper through and it's night and day different, so the old one was definitely kaput. I've also rebuilt the front driveshafts and checked the bearings for play and smoothness while it was all apart. Will put it all back together and see if it's better...

[chris.lilstar]

I haven't yet, I ordered a compatible part and it was no good when I opened the box. Still need to find a replacement before I trash these new tires


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[Rusty]

I left it disconnected. There's plenty of play... I'm trying to source a new on using Boge p/no 22-747-1. What did you use?

[chris.lilstar]

Wheel Wobble...

If there is a little play in it, from when you tension or compress, it's shot and likely causing the wobble.
What so you mean by "didn't change the symptoms"? Did you replace it?

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[Rusty]

I disconnected it today to see if it was seized or ruined. Not sure what it's supposed to feel like but it moved freely and provided a little damping but not much... Didn't change the symptoms...

[chris.lilstar]

This may be a silly question, but have you checked the steering damper, my experience with my urs6 is the same.


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[Rusty]

I may take the dampers off and the driveshafts and check it all out, get the CVs replaced at the same time and the passenger side wheel bearing replaced as I have a spare genuine one... Bloody cars.

Odd that taking the drop link off seems to change things as the ARB doesn't located the wheel like it does on some cars.

The dampers are a few years old, so they're not a bad shout. I would replace the drop links but as swapping them has made no difference and they feel spot on leads me to look elsewhere.

[SteveH]

Pity it's not easy to check the front dampers are both working fine and with similar characteristics. Feel your pain m8.

[Rusty]

Tested again with a drop link removed this morning in the dry and the car felt the same as Tuesday, which was an improvement.

Checked the runout on the discs and checked the brake calipers and all seemed fine.

Swapped the drop links left to right after inspecting them and fitted them both. Went for a run and the wobble was back...

One thing I did notice was a light graunching on a fast roundabout. I've noticed it before but putb it down to knackered engine mounts.

Getting pretty bored of this

[Rusty]

Cheers to SteveH for the loan of his front wheels... we went for a spin and the wobble was still there to some extent on his wheels, despite not being there in his car.

We then reset the pressures on my wheels (33 up to factory 36) and I pulled a stabiliser link and drove home.

Things weren't perfect but they were better. I took the car for a run along the motorway for 15 miles and varies the speed etc. and it was just a background noise on the steering, rather than a full wobble and seemed not to be directional. It also varied with road surface.

The extreme geometry and fact that everything that was rubber is now ally or poly pretty much accounts for the noise through the steering, so I'll test it again in the dry, then check the drop link on the other side and see if it comes back / is worse.

Not a solution yet but it'll come.

I've got the do some more work on the front suspension (remove the subframe kind of work) before going back to get the alignment done again, so will go for something a little more friendly next time by ditching the toe out at the rear and setting the camber to more road friendly settings. Unless I find another issue first... In the meantime, I can add some toe in and see how that affects things.

At £40 a piece, I may also replace the inner CVs on the front as they are original.

[Rusty]

I rebuilt the rear calipers recently and the fronts are in working order. Might remove e the pistons and grease them to be sure...

[Biggss2]

Possibly a sticking caliper, had this on many a BMW.

[Rusty]

It does it under power / cruising / slowing down. I checked movement in the driveshafts with them at operating angle and it was very small amounts axially...

I can't feel any movement in the wheels bearing but that's a possibility and I think I'll replace the track rod ends and drop links as they're a few years old now too.

Will get some spare driveshafts and return them I think too.

[Monkeymagic]

I'm still going with inner cv