New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[Tractor Dave]

I should point out that the Fuchs Race pro s is a redish brown going in, so the oil coming out is quite clean.

[Tractor Dave]

Very slow progress due to a sore back and other jobs that needed doing about the place. Everything going to plan so far.
A sharpie comes in handy!





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[simons2]

What coolant are you using now ? I need to flush and replace mine when she comes out of storage

[Tractor Dave]

Hepu G12 (pink). You can see it on the bench next to the oil on the previous page. If you are still using G11, you will need to flush really well before switching as they don't mix.

[Tractor Dave]

PAS pump pulley bolts rounded out and I had to hammer in a spline. Ordered some new ones. Everything else going to plan. Belt looks like new. I've only done a few thousand miles on it but it was fitted in 2018 so needs changing due to time elapsed. Note the timing marks set and how far out the damper mark is. Never use this mark. I don't know why Audi bothered putting it there.


1” drive socket and ratchet with 4ft extension.



Don't know what all the fuss was about at RE Performance?
Marks with engine set at TDC






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[simons2]

Much appreciated

[K Simmonds]

Hepu G12 (pink). You can see it on the bench next to the oil on the previous page. If you are still using G11, you will need to flush really well before switching as they don't mix.

This really important as Dave say's, so take the time to flush and back flush every hose and rad as well as remove the thermostat and flush the head and block out until the water coming out it spotless. G12 combined with G11 can form a gel which obviously doesn't pump very well at all.

And I agreed. That front timing mark is really useless and woefully inaccurate, the pulley is keyed and the mark on the flywheel isn't hard to see, you'd have to be an idiot to somehow manage to get that wrong. I don't really understand why Audi put it there to be honest as to me it serves no useful function. I use a long screwdriver down No one plug hole to tell me when I'm coming up to TDC if doing a belt by myself, I find that save's a bit of time as it's quite easy to rotate the engine past it.

[JayCab]

If you were to weigh an S2/RS2, or any inline 5 Audi Turbo longitudinally, would they be right hand heavy on account of the amount of engine metal leaning to the right?

[Tractor Dave]

Probably a little. You have the radiator, abs pump, coolant bottle to balance it out a bit

[Tractor Dave]

The timing belt job had to go on hold for a few days as my mums house needed painting and we had a few dry days in a row. Eye roll.
Anyway, timing belt got finished.





New Allen screws on the damper and the pas pulley.
Unfortunately my crank locking tool is showing signs of wear. I see Alex is out of stock atm. Mine has done rather a lot of work.


Next job is to clean the brakes. They have gone quite rusty after no use for two years.


But they cleaned up nicely.



Now I need to get a fresh mot. Sunglasses


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[sal_s2]

Nice, what did you use to clean the brakes so well?

[Tractor Dave]

Wire wheel on the grinder.

[Tractor Dave]

Whilst cleaning the brakes i remembered i have no heat shields on the front. Now, if i had half a brain i would have made a template from the Rs2 ones i had here last year
Anyone have some knocking about

[Tractor Dave]

Heat shields! How hard can they be?
Had a look back at my Rs2 project pics and the front heat shields are actually very simple. From a picture I made this from some aluminium sheet I had knocking about.




What it should look like below.
Not quite the same but should do the job.



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[Tractor Dave]

I almost forgot to change the brake fluid.
Didn't take long.



Now I'm conducting a little experiment with rust converters to see how they fare. Front left disc has been treaded with Hydrate 80 and front right with Fertan. No other treatment. Let's see how they last.



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