1990 Urquattro Panther Black

[nastnas]

Hello,

I have a post up on classic Audi Facebook page and we’re trying to trackdown any UK info we can find. The plate in the UK was G881-RNV.

If anyone has any info that would be awesome.

Cheers,


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[ZiMMeN]

Sure can do however my intercooler, radiator and oil cooler and much larger than stock.


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That cool, just makes it better

[nastnas]

Sure can do however my intercooler, radiator and oil cooler and much larger than stock.


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[ZiMMeN]

Hey mate. What are you after?


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If you could take some pictures on the intercooler mounting and where the accelerator cable goes

[nastnas]

Hey mate. What are you after?


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[ZiMMeN]

Yup I see where you guys are coming from. I have the alarm box going to an immobiliser circuit and a few motion and door switches. I think I’m ok with what you guys have suggested. Soldering and heat wrapping the wires. I hope it sorts issue of something draining the battery. It appears if my volt meter doesn’t show 12 or higher my car won’t start and it takes a while to reach 12 also.




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Damn this is good.

Maybe you could help me with some pictures from your car

[K Simmonds]

Yeah, that sounds about right, I'm rarely impressed by the amount effort that's put into installing these systems.

They have to have a spring switch/sender on the bonnet to to comply with the Cat one rules, as well as each front door, however I'm not sure about the boot to be honest.

[nastnas]

I wasn’t impressed with the soldering or wiring to be honest. The splices were quite close to the plug but I managed to heat and unravel solder enough to save the wiring and stick plug.

They could of done a much better job like you say.

Do the 1990 urqs have a boot lid spring pin sensor? Mine had one on the bonnet which hooked up to the alarm and I wonder if the boot is the same.


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[K Simmonds]

Sounds like a result then.

As I mentioned those old alarm system's are really more trouble than their worth, the installation's vary from shockingly bad to quite good.

The only use they have is a piece of paper to show the insurance company, in the UK some insurers won't cover an expensive classic car unless it has a Cat one system, either that or it's much more expensive.

[nastnas]

I think it has. Starter reacts straight away to key position. No more waiting for voltmeter to read >12V.


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[K Simmonds]

Well done!

As you say it's actually pretty easy, has it solved your current drain problem or is it too early to know yet?

[nastnas]

Winner winner chicken dinner! Thanks for the help all. It was a simple job in the end.




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[K Simmonds]

How did you get on with this job? It can take a while to do tidily depending on how much of a mess of things the alarm fitters made...

[nastnas]

Yup I see where you guys are coming from. I have the alarm box going to an immobiliser circuit and a few motion and door switches. I think I’m ok with what you guys have suggested. Soldering and heat wrapping the wires. I hope it sorts issue of something draining the battery. It appears if my volt meter doesn’t show 12 or higher my car won’t start and it takes a while to reach 12 also.




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[K Simmonds]

As Dave say's you won't need a wiring diagram to sort that out, I've removed several Cat one system's in my time, it's half a days work at the most with a soldering iron and some heat shrink to do a tidy job.

I can bypass one of those system's and have a car running in less than half an hour and electrics aren't really my thing, a professional thief can do it in seconds, you'll be surprised by just how simple (and pointless) they are.

Work methodically sorting one wire at a time and you can't go wrong.