The green one in sweden is the one i'd go for, been following his threads on audifans, classic audi, etc and it show's how much time/love's gone into it 
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I agree - the silver one just doesnt sound right - and get an avant unless you are looking for a track slag. Buy the blue and have done with it!Comment
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No ones keen on the silver one then.
The Swedish one is more appealing and the website diary is very impressive.
May still look at the blue one but can't test drive it so seems a bit odd. Anyone know the previous history?
Not a huge choice of these cars for sale
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Not a huge choice of these cars for sale
No - they're quite rare..Comment
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[QUOTE=colin72blue;537499]
May still look at the blue one but can't test drive it so seems a bit odd. Anyone know the previous history?
only reason is no tax or insurance mate. i can poss get my hands on a set of trade plates from a mate if you are keenComment
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That would be useful. Don't know if you got my message but have Friday free but then after that the next chance to look will be over Xmas or new year at some point.Comment
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Mine's just gone past 200K but has had a seriously hard life in the last 40K miles. Full service history including hand over documents as a run out model. Very fortunate to find it for £2750. There is various issues with these cars that you need to be aware of before buying and by looking for those issues you know what you are going to be up against financially after purchase.
#1 The shocks and springs are generally worn out by 160K miles so if anywhere near that mileage and there is no history of change expect to put your money on the table.
#2 When viewing the car they all rust on the front arch lips, the less rust the better cared for the body work if none check for indications of respray, being a big car they tend to have a few knocks and scrapes over the years
#3 Check when the last timing belt was done and by who, too many people can't afford the high service bills so take to a monkey mechanic that will use a rattle gun on the front pulley and re use the pulley and bolt, I spotted this in the last document in the service history and sure enough on removal the key way had already half sheared of on the pulley.
#4 When taking it for a test drive check it starts easily when warm if not you may have a leaky fuel line from filter to fuel rail underneath the braid.
#5 Test drive again make sure you making the expected boost figures that the car produces on the display on the dash. If it doesn't you could have some perished hoses that are difficult to find and expensive to replace if you are wanting to keep stock.
#6 Have a look at the mpg on the multi display and see if it is reading at least 20mpg or if a motorway driven car closer to 25-27mpg. When I looked at mine it said 9mpg for town driving. As the guy had owned for barely two months and had it for sale on ebay I put this down to be the reason for sale. Little did he know the most common cause is a split diaphragm on the boost recirc valve. I put my deposit down to buy outside of ebay and kept my mouth shut and got the car for min bidding price. Got home fitted a new recirc valve and did 27mpg
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#7 Last but not least the S6 is based on the old Audi 200 chassis with a rather unique rear wishbone setup. Listen out for clunking in the suspension when going over bumpy roads from the rear. If you hear these noises it is down to the two rather expensive bushes on the front of the wishbones which are £300 for the pair. the other bushes are cheaper to replace and come in at around £180-200 for the rest of the back ones if you shop carefully. If clunking from the front replace the lower strut arm (approx £65 each) or it could also be the strut top mounts (not sure on price as mine were new when I bought the car at 160k miles.
hth and good luck with your potential S6 car as they're a real hidden gem as a family car.UrS6 Stroker + HTA3586 =
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Thanks very much for that information. Very useful. Out of interest how expensive is it to modify them. Like the spec of yours but maybe that would be too extreme for everyday use.Comment
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How expensive to modify....... (worry when you start looking at your kid's and wondering how much you would get for them...) varying thoughts on this subject because there is the 'without replacing any of the internals' approach, and then there is the 'all-out quadruple bypass' which some of our more affluent (Senior lol) members are renowned for - they have more of the time, money and unnerving devotion to their projects.
Most would start with an upgrade to either RS2 or Wagner ex. manifold as the OEM's often crack and given the age are probably overdue a change, an uprated turbo (standard is good for upwards of 280-300 and no more), chips and possibly injectors - its a straight forward way to give you more power and you could be nudging 400 bhp for little over a grand. Interestingly prices for turbo's seem to be more reasonable whereas manifolds are really holding their prices. For engine breathing reasons I opted to get a full 3" system on-board ASAP and it certainly made a huge difference. As per the old chap - what goes fast must a **** load faster - I have got two words for you: Brakes and Breasts - 'brakes' are a must and an upgrade is inevitable - although with the HP2 struts you have the better brake set up than the original UrS4, and Breasts purely because they are great!
HTHComment
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Finally looked at my first s6. Didn't get to drive it unfortunately but loved the look of them and think it would be a better size for me than an s2 or s4 (but still considering those). It wasn't for me so the hunt continues. Only know of 2 others for sale but they are in ireland or Sweden! Swedish one is by far the best at the moment. Any one know of any other avants I have missed? My other option is get one from Germany. Wife is German and my brother in law works for Audi so finding a good one wouldn't be a problem. Already know of a few s6 plus's that I could get for between 4 and 6k. Any one here have a v8 or left hand drive s6? Had integrales before and regularly drive mother in laws car so well used to it.
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that 'silver' one you were all chatting about in earlier posts.... i purchased last week! its an absolute minter!! full audi service history, paintwork is very original and the interior is totally immaculate! ill add some pics soon as the ones on PH dont do it justice!
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Hiya
Firts of all...google s-cars.org and there is a thread on there which is entitled "Things to know when buying a s4/s6"
Loads of very usefull information if you do not know much about these cars.
Choose wisely, not just on cost.
There are not many on the market so be prepared to travel, go to an Audi meet etc, talk to owners, check out spec etc, etc..basically do your homework and then you will know when the right one comes around.
From experience, as already said, go for the 6 speed manual.
Its not good to chip the autos as it tends to screw the boxes up.
Dont forget the early s4 is as good as the same car as the s6, the s6 has a few updates, but again you will realise this when you do your homework.
The 6 speed box has a weak first gear on the s4 and tends to whine, be aware of this.
Don't be afraid of mileage...My s6 Avant has 223000, used daily, original turbo, mechanics, clutch etc..check service history and check the VOSA mot database.
This is a good check on any UK vehicle...Go onto the VOSA site, find the MOT database, you will need to input the reg number and last MOT number or the ref number on the v5 and all of the MOT's will be displayed since computer MOT's came in.
It will show you mlieage, which is important to see if it has been clocked or clocks changed.
It will show failures, advisories etc and will be a good bargaining tool when it comes to price.
Good luck, you wont be dissapointed in the right one, but be prepared for a hefty fuel bill at an average 20mpg!!!!
I also have a s4 saloon in pearl white...sorry wont sell...I am hanging onto these.
Oh, they are galvanised so there should not be any rust at all....If there is beware, pre accident damage, poor repair.
Basically...Do not go and look at one with rose tinted glasses.
Enjoy
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