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1992 urS4 family sedan

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  • 1992 urS4 family sedan

    After lurking the forums for a while, I thought I'd share my project with you guys.


    omg, it's matt black

    Car:
    1992 Audi urS4, 5cyl 2.2 turbo quattro
    Aimed mainly for standing mile, 1000m pulls and street racing
    Currently ????? hp @ ?? bar and ???? rev limit
    Engine management MoTeC M84
    Everything is self-made and it's visible in the quality of the craftmanship

    Block:
    - 82mm bored stock AAN block
    - Custom conrods
    - JE-pistons 82,0mm 9,3:1cr with 20mm pin
    - ARP studs
    - 19-row oil cooler
    - Self-made Sport Spec* engine mounts (*sporty because of the hockey bucks)
    - A lot of matt black paint
    - Dry sump

    Head:
    - Cat Cams 13,25mm/11,45mm / 289/279deg 0,1mm / 255/238deg 1,0mm
    - High load springs with titanium upper retainers and self made bottom retainers
    - Solid lifters
    - Ported head, gen. 7
    - Adjustable cam gear on exhaust and sprocket on intake
    - 7A valve cover
    - Quite a lot of matt black

    Breathing:
    - Tube exhaust
    - Self made aluminium intake manifold (pictures in the link below)
    - 60mm HKS-style Chinese wastegate
    - Holset Pro52 (71 intake inducer, 70 exhaust exducer, 16cc turbine housing with split T4)
    - 4,5" dp with 4,5" cutout to side exhaust
    - 3" boost plumbing
    - 2" Stainless exhaust ReWoN Motors Silent Series
    - 600x300x100 High Quality China cooler

    Engine management:
    - MoTeC M84
    - Completely rebuilt wiring with a self made loom
    - 60-2 "lupo" trigger at the crank

    Fuel delivery:
    - 3 x Bosch 044
    - Carter 455 cm3/min lift pump
    - ~4 liter reservoir
    - Mallory 4305M regulator
    - 10mm Steel braided teflon lines with pressed hydraulic fittings
    - Bosch EV14 2200cc injectors
    - ReWoN Motors Fuel rail
    - E85 fuel

    Ignition:
    - "034" coils (IGN1A)
    - Bosch F5DP0R plugs
    - Magnecor KV85 leads

    Driveline:
    - Tilton OT-II 7,25" 3-plate
    - 4,2kg Steel flywheel
    - 01E CET gearbox, with 0,68:1 6th added (theoretical top speed of 356kmh@8500rpm)
    - Self made short shifter

    Suspension, brakes and wheels:
    - Suspension will be completely overhauled very soon with home made coilovers
    Old setup:
    - Bilstein shocks
    - Front H&R springs, rear Avant Eibach's, both cut down some

    - Front subframe bushings replaced with self made steel brackets
    - Powerflex PUR bushings here and there
    - Rear brakes with moved stock calipers with ~310mm Ford Mondeo front discs
    - 360mm B5 RS4 front brakes with Yellowstuffs
    - 18x8" OZ Crono HT with Kumho tires
    - A lot of matt black

    Coming:
    - Visual fixing and detailing (ongoing project)
    - Custom coilover suspension (spring 14)

    Project stages 1-5
    Stage 6-6.5
    Stage 7 (season 2012)
    Intake manifold in the making

    I have a long story about the different stages this car has gone through, but it's in finnish and I just cant be arsed to translate it right now. Instead, here's a quick recap of it.

    Stage 1 in early 2010 had HX40 Super with schrick cams, 8,5:1 JE's etc. Dynoed 510hp and it ended in a engine failure due to huge knock on an standing mile pull. This was the first engine I had ever built. It lasted less than 24 hours after the dyno. Engine management was with VEMS.



    Stage 2 was done quite slow in the fall of 2010 and the car was running at christmas with the new intake, 034 coils, exhaust etc. And improved det cans After the first engine failure, I spent quite alot of time developing a proper engine end to the knock listening and I have now perfected it. Stage 2 dynoed 606hp with 720Nm at 2 bar boost.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7tKcB_XJaM
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2iXwcR22SI


    Stage 3 had a new HX52 turbo with 65mm inducer and a new 4,5" downpipe. This was the stage I had most of the 2011 season. Worked really well on street, but on the standing mile, the turbo was way too small. At this point I still had the Schrick-head. I had estimated 650-670hp with this stage, it never went to dyno. Won some 900cc motorbikes on 100-250kmh pulls and a lot of cars.

    271 kmh was the best standing mile pull for the season (and the only one because of problems in other events)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrZb37L_Sj4

    Stage 4 was came to be in august 2011 and it was a giant leap. New head with proper porting (the old one was self made and I had my doubts as it was the first and only head I've done ever), the roughest CatCams around, solid lifters and a bunch of other stuff. I also bought a new turbo, the pro55 Holset. It was with 71mm inducer and 77mm exducer with 22" T4 turbine housing. I could not get it to spool anywhere reasonable, even with a lot of cam and tuning tricks. Finally by using ridiculous over lap, I got it to spool at a usable range, even though it weakened the upper range a lot.

    In the dyno I found out my plug wires struck through and caused a lot of problems. I had the black 034 set at that time. Dyno trip went to **** and I got 671hp/722nm as a result. Could not tune the car as no two pulls were the same.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIaZiDZ_edQ
    This is pretty much the only pull that it worked even a bit

    Tried it on the standing mile event
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1ywuHhDgro
    The led on the gauge stand is a trigger error warning
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiKYskP9IsU
    Note the low spool!

    Stage 4.5 with new plug wires was a lot better. I got it to function pretty well, even though the spool was still up in the 6k range. Once it spooled, it pulled like a rocket though. 257kmh for standing 1000m, standing mile season had already ended. At this point the car had something around 700-710hp.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VX0WwgbOcFw
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqJ-iI79qJg

    Difference between pro52 and pro55:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5x5zLlVX3Q

    Stage 5 was just before winter in 2011. I bought a Holset Pro52 (the one with I'm running currently) and it worked like a charm.

    Winter storage and workshop


    Stage 6 is the base of the current setup. I'm still running the stage 2 bottom of the engine, but most of the parts above that have changed at least once. The stage 6 was done in winter 2011-12 and the biggest improvement was the MoTeC M84 engine management system, new triggering and a new wiring loom. I pretty much remade most of the car's electrics.



    First smoke with completely pre-programmed config, never had so easy first start

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4oO5fFOi7g
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBKT5Err7Fo

    One could argue if the next stage is 6, 6.5 or 7. But for me it is 7th. This stage is the introduction of ethanol fuel. This made the biggest difference in the car's performance so far. The personality of the car changed a lot as well, it's now pretty frisky and easy going

    This engine has always been pretty knock-prone and I reckoned that I'd get a lot of benefit from ethanol but the results blew me out completely. I had anticipated something around 750hp..

    Videos of the dyno session
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMeJCfwYb5w
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z27PMy0kSLg
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myf8o_SqKk8

    The first one actually is the 830ps pull, the other two are the same ~780hp pull from two angles. Uploaded because of the flames

    Dyno chart


    Standing mile "log run" with very low TPS% and scared driver
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfbR-9U7Eb0
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...HviXbvl8#t=38s



    It was really windy that day and there were huge gusts cross field. Note the 0,2G lateral acceleration at about 700 meters in the racelogic log. In the motec log you can see the frightened driver and his throttle foot shivering

    As said in the thread, the standing mile goal was reached and new ones had to be set. More about this later on
    Last edited by kenax; 11 April 2014, 13:54.

  • #2
    Great job.

    I am curious - do you now have well working per-cylinder knock control with the MoTeC?
    http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by prj View Post
      Great job.

      I am curious - do you now have well working per-cylinder knock control with the MoTeC?
      Nope, I'm using a stethoscope and gen 3 kenax racing knock impulse sender

      in other words, I've come up with a working (and nearly free) knock tube mounting using a banjo and some odds and ends

      also, knock is not that much of a problem with ethanol.

      Comment


      • #4
        Mm, okay.
        The way modern EMS work is that they keep the engine always on the knock limit and trim the timing from each cylinder individually, because even though we would like - in reality the filling and the fueling is a little bit different between cylinders.
        This allows to extract more performance safely from the engine.
        It requires knowing the engine phase and having per-cylinder linearization maps along with knock sensor processing IC's to reach the best effect.

        I know how it works when tuning, but conditions are not always the same. I use a condenser microphone and an amplifier with headphones to listen for knock during tuning of the 2.2T.
        The OEM ECM's detect knock very accurately themselves, but I like to hear the engine as a double safety measure.

        I just had a look on MoTeC's site and it seems the M84 does not support knock monitoring at all.
        How come you decided to go for the MoTeC specifically? Was it a good offer? I have played a little bit with the Tatech ECU, and that seemed to work pretty well also on the I5. It also worked with the stock knock sensors and detected knock pretty accurately.

        And it's finnish
        http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

        Comment


        • #5
          First of all, even a single knock can cause catastrophic devastation in very highly tuned engines. So knock-based optimization is absolutely a no-no in my opinion.

          OEM ecu's have a very highly and precisely tuned filtering for noise in the knock sensor signal. In order for the knock sensing to work properly on an aftermarket ecu, there should be a lot of work done to filter out anomalies from the engine noise.

          And no, Motec doesnt have knock sensing, at least in this cheap-*** version

          Further yet about the actual tuning, as the car is made for standing mile, it's crucial that the tune is not at the very brink of destruction as it will fail on the mile pull.

          Comment


          • #6
            Wow, great to read of the progress with your car Kenneth. Really impressive result with the final stage. Want E85!!! Oh, why don't we have it here.

            Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
            Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
            BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
            BMW 740iA e38 - Project

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by kenax View Post
              First of all, even a single knock can cause catastrophic devastation in very highly tuned engines. So knock-based optimization is absolutely a no-no in my opinion.
              A single knock won't cause much, and you will always have *some* knock, at least on gasoline.
              The problem is the chain reaction, where you get knock and it heats up the combustion chamber, and then subsequently the cylinder temps go higher and higher, causing more and more knock. If on the first event the ignition angle is taken back and held back somewhat for some time in that cylinder, then there will be no subsequent events and there will also be no damage. Even if the specific output is quite high.
              OEM ecu's have a very highly and precisely tuned filtering for noise in the knock sensor signal. In order for the knock sensing to work properly on an aftermarket ecu, there should be a lot of work done to filter out anomalies from the engine noise.
              I agree. Knock monitoring is a pretty difficult concept, but new dedicated IC's have now made it quite a bit easier.
              And no, Motec doesnt have knock sensing, at least in this cheap-*** version
              When using E85 as fuel, it's not as important as on gasoline anyway
              Further yet about the actual tuning, as the car is made for standing mile, it's crucial that the tune is not at the very brink of destruction as it will fail on the mile pull.
              Riding the knock limit is not being on the brink of destruction, it is just running optimal ignition timing for each cylinder, and due to this extracting more efficiency out of the engine and producing less heat (lower EGT's). It is actually a lot less stressful on the engine to ride the knock limit and run less boost with lower EGT, than to make the same power further away from the knock limit with higher boost and higher EGT.

              Modern knock sensing is much better than the human ear. I'd like to think I know pretty well how exactly knock sounds after tuning about 50 of these 2.2T engines, but the ECM usually sees it faster. And on 2.2T that was developed in the end of 1980's.

              Anyway, you are making great results.
              Is there any chance you would come to Haapsalu, Kiltsi for the standing mile event?
              It's on the 16th of June. Or is this out of the question?

              You can see some people who have registered here:
              http://www.onemile.ee/?lang=en&page=competitors
              http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by prj View Post
                How come you decided to go for the MoTeC specifically? Was it a good offer? I have played a little bit with the Tatech ECU, and that seemed to work pretty well also on the I5. It also worked with the stock knock sensors and detected knock pretty accurately.
                I wanted a proper engine management system. I had some experience from Autronic SM4 before and that was a very strong candidate. It would've required the spark multiplexer, which wouldve risen the price a bit and at the same time I found the new M84 Motec. I had previous encounters with MoTeC from rally stuff, so I knew it's a working device with no problems to my knowledge.

                I used VEMS for a few years and had so much problems, especially in the end with newer firmwares that I lost all trust and faith in it. That was the reason I went on to find another ECU. I was done with having an ECU-hobby instead of a car tuning hobby.

                Anyway, MoTeC has worked perfectly so far, nothing (absolutely nothing) has went sour so far.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by prj View Post
                  Is there any chance you would come to Haapsalu, Kiltsi for the standing mile event?
                  It's on the 16th of June. Or is this out of the question?
                  Would be fun, but the safety regulations with the BHRA cages, fire extinguish systems, scream pipe regulations, chute etc. makes it impossible.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by kenax View Post
                    Would be fun, but the safety regulations with the BHRA cages, fire extinguish systems, scream pipe regulations, chute etc. makes it impossible.
                    I don't think you need any of those. The only thing is the screamer pipe, it should be looking away from the car:
                    The exhaust system must be pointed out backwards from under the car, away from the driver and fuel tank.
                    This means it can be on the side...

                    As I understand you have not made more than 290km/h on the standing mile, so you don't need the fire extinguish, chute, roll cage, etc.
                    The one mile challenge is meant for street cars with modified engines.
                    http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by prj View Post
                      I don't think you need any of those. The only thing is the screamer pipe, it should be looking away from the car:

                      This means it can be on the side...

                      As I understand you have not made more than 290km/h on the standing mile, so you don't need the fire extinguish, chute, roll cage, etc.
                      The one mile challenge is meant for street cars with modified engines.
                      285kmh is the best so far.

                      We have the Halli event at the same day, but I just cancelled my going there as well, as I have other stuff to do then. Maybe next year in estonia then

                      Welcome to SpeedParty 7.7.2012 in Joensuu, Finland. There were a few guys there from estonia in 2010. We fixed the broken drive shaft of the Audi 80 after the event at our workshop..

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I am afraid I will be in the Ukraine tuning some 2.2T on 7.7

                        Oh well...

                        285 is a good result. I am hoping to break 260. But all I have is a stock RS4 with some tweaks.
                        http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by prj View Post
                          285 is a good result. I am hoping to break 260. But all I have is a stock RS4 with some tweaks.
                          But it's nowhere near the potential of the car

                          It will go over 300kmh unless something goes wrong. My aim is for 305-310, let's see if it'll go that

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            As it should.

                            We have a UrS6 here on gasoline and water/meth doing 300 with a HX40 Super
                            And we could say your turbo is a little bigger than that.
                            http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by prj View Post
                              As it should.

                              We have a UrS6 here on gasoline and water/meth doing 300 with a HX40 Super
                              And we could say your turbo is a little bigger than that.
                              Janis? I've spoken with him through youtube.

                              Comment

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