1.8t 20v Coupe Conversion

[bikerjim]

Hi guys. I wasn't initially going to post this here as i didnt think it was appropriate. But some of the recent threads would suggest you lot know about the 1.8t engine too

This has been in my head for along time now. I currently own a 2.0 16v coupe. The car itself is in fantastic condition and i dont see me getting rid any time soon after all the time, money and effort i have put in.

But i am however wanting a little more power (not lots). I would be happy with about 250hp especially as its all going through the front wheels. Im sure alot of you will think this is a bad idea but i want a project that is a little different, and i already have a great base car.

Now my questions

1. Would an AEB engine make a good base to start?
I have found one at reasonable money including loom and turbo etc. I know its probably only the 150/180 hp version of this engine but is it more or less the same base engine?
I plan on rebuilding it first and finding a K04 turbo or K04s turbo. Then getting the ECU re-mapped.

2. I have herd about veriable valve timing engines not being a good choice. Is the AEB VVT? Why is VVT a poor choice?

3. Throttle body - Cable or fly by wire. Obveously i need a fly by bire set up to keep things simple, is the AEB fly by wire?

Thanks in advance guys. Any help and info would be very useful.

Jim

[sam80quattro]

aeb will be from early a4,a6 or passat, there cable operated throttle which is the simple 1. its not vvt either. ive put an aeb in a b3 90q and finally got it running last week, and cant wait to get it on the road.

try www.motorgeek.com theres quite a bit of reading on there regarding 1.8t swaps. or check speeding-g60 on here and dream off getting kicked off every drag strip going

[Val]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1774571

you could also build hybrid from 2.0 block and 1.8T head.

[bikerjim]

I have found an engine AEB with 90,000 miles and can be herd running before being dismanteled. The guy wants £350 for it with inlet mani, exhaust mani, turbo and ecu. I understand the clocks and ignition/keys are needed unless the ecu is dealt with not to need them.

Is there anything else i should get of the car too?

And what do you guys think of the price?

[Val]

I would also take immo block, obd2 connector with wiring between them and ECU. Don't forget reading coil for immo that's located on ignition switch.

[bikerjim]

I would also take immo block, obd2 connector with wiring between them and ECU. Don't forget reading coil for immo that's located on ignition switch.

Hi val, what is the immo? Imobiliser? Is that a seperate box to the ecu?

Thanks, great replys so far.

[Val]

yes, immobiliser. Looks like this. White box in picture. In A4 it's located elsewhere - don't remember

Is that a seperate box to the ecu?

yes.

I have found one at reasonable money including loom and turbo etc. I know its probably only the 150/180 hp version of this engine but is it more or less the same base engine?

180hp engine should be AJL. Not much different from AEB except k03s turbo and some other crap

3. Throttle body - Cable or fly by wire. Obveously i need a fly by bire set up to keep things simple, is the AEB fly by wire?

Mine runs by cable.

[Val]

Don't forget about this page.

http://audi.fraggaz.de/

use google translate or smth else to translate page to english if you don't know german..

and this for future... http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=12657

[GazzaG60]

or just turbo the motor you have. with stacked gaskets you can make well over 300hp. stock internals.

its in the management.

[bikerjim]

Thats great help, thanks val. I have that first link already, very useful. Thanks again.

[bikerjim]

or just turbo the motor you have. with stacked gaskets you can make well over 300hp. stock internals.

its in the management.

Hi gazza. I have thought about this but the reasons for going 1.8t is:

1. It seams to be a fairly simple conversion. Everything that i need to think about with the 1.8 like intercooler mounting, exhaust routing etc etc i will have to think about with turboing my engine.

2. The economy from the 1.8 when not driving like an idiot is great. I need economy too.

3. I would also like to build the engine and get everything ready before i take the car off the road. This will also mean less time off the road too.

Thanks for your input though. I understand you have good knowledge on the 16v motors.

Jim

[siV6Qcoupe]

Get the ECU from the States, these do not have the imobiliser so you can use your original ignition, clocks and keys. I transplanted a 30v 2.8 into my cabriolet and used an ECU from the states ('98 B5 A4); their cars did not have imobilisers until much later, saved a whole load of hassle not using the matched A4 clocks, imobiliser, ECU, ignition, keys, wiring etc.

Variable valve timing on the 1.8t 20v/2.8 30v is performed by oil pressure pumping up the cam chain tensioner to alter the poition of the camshafts, a valve is controlled by the ECU to contain the pressure at high revs and to release at low revs. Simply unplugging the cam timing valve on the head will remove this function. Those like myself who run the PES supercharger on the 2.8 30v remove the variable valve timing function as many testify that a loss of torque occurs when the engine is "on boost". This variable valve timing is mechanical as opposed to the more sophisticated electronically controlled systems employed by the likes of Honda in their VTEC system.

[speeding-g60]

so i may have done this once or so

AEB no VVT, as stated. and VVT is not a poor choice at all. 034 is now doing development playing with VVT to make a different timing curve. VVT is just there for cold startup.
i do believe the Immo is still on the A4 over here. only cars here that came with AEB were B5 early A4 and Passat.
AEB = DBC and 150hp
AEB is the largeport head.
you will need to get the motor from a manual car, as it will have the provision for the pilot bearing needed for the long input shaft of the trans. at least, over here we do. if being used in a transverse application like a MK1 Golf it would not matter.

use a 16v manual timing belt tensioner, the hydro unit is prone to failure. when it goes, so do all the exhaust valves and the center intakes minimum.
the rods, they are the weakpoint for ~300 hp or so, as well as torque.
the AEB pistons have been used fine over here for well over 600 WHP.
not sure, but we have Immo here as well.

now, mine is >600 AWHP, and does cool things. i am not easy on it by any means.

but all of my threads on here are about the 20v 4-pot into my Coupe Quattro (USA body) drag car.

and we are done getting kicked off of tracks now i even put the parachute on it for the next step LOL.

and being over there you will find the parts to mount it much easier than over here. we never had the 4cyl CQ. but it will be a fine start for someone wanting to do something different.

16v stuff used to have alot more performance stuff, but the 20v is catching up. if you are wanting performance > cool factor, put the effort into turboing the 16v. but if cool factor is what drives you, by all means come on over to the 20v side.


if you have a few hours to burn, here is my major build thread... 1.8T 20v into Coupe Quattro.

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24050

[istoo]

Get the ECU from the States, these do not have the imobiliser so you can use your original ignition, clocks and keys. I transplanted a 30v 2.8 into my cabriolet and used an ECU from the states ('98 B5 A4); their cars did not have imobilisers until much later, saved a whole load of hassle not using the matched A4 clocks, imobiliser, ECU, ignition, keys, wiring etc.

Variable valve timing on the 1.8t 20v/2.8 30v is performed by oil pressure pumping up the cam chain tensioner to alter the poition of the camshafts, a valve is controlled by the ECU to contain the pressure at high revs and to release at low revs. Simply unplugging the cam timing valve on the head will remove this function. Those like myself who run the PES supercharger on the 2.8 30v remove the variable valve timing function as many testify that a loss of torque occurs when the engine is "on boost". This variable valve timing is mechanical as opposed to the more sophisticated electronically controlled systems employed by the likes of Honda in their VTEC system.

OT, Hello Si nice to see you still about

[jontawn]

or... look at buying a SuperVAG kit and you can read/code the clocks/ecu/whatever ... saving you the hassles of importing from the states!?

+ you'd be able to do engine diagnostics too

I know that sounds cheap and a cheap plug from me, however, they really are ideal for sorting out this sort of thing as you can disable the immob' too... or enable it - which would give you easier factory fit security?

which would seem to make sense to me? you can buy from here and don't have to import anything, you can correct the mileage to whatever is appropriate, you can work on the immob.

I'm based in sheffield at the moment but moving to portsmouth soon, otherwise i'd come and offer to help you out! (which could be done if you were to view the engine running before you bought it, then you could disable the immob before you dismantled it! ... there are a few forum members who own them too ...)



jt