Broken Down!

[Error404]

If you need a conversion harness I will have one available in about 10 - 14 days

[macspring]

One POS unit runs three and the other one runs two coils, so if two coils are gone, I'd be sure to check out the POS units !

Also replace your spark plugs with NGK ones, and also the rubber boots between the coils and the spark plugs if staying with oem coils.

Don't throw out the old ones, you never know when they'll come in handy, especially on a Sunday.

Just sayin', if you have one of these cars , it's a good idea to practice trying to solve these problems yourself with this forum's help, unless your mechanic' s rate is cheap.

Not convinced by your mechanic so far.

Alex's loom is nice, I'm glad I got one.

Just my own ramblings.

Best wishes.

[UrS4boy]

Potential solutions to why your AAN-powered UrS isn't starting

Thanks for all the advice, car is still with the garage,
They have swapped the coils from my S4 (C4) and the car has spark but still does not run, I am liasing with the garage next week to look further...

Wow. You can afford a mechanic to stumble around hoping to bump into the answer. Lucky you.

If you were doing the work yourself, I would offer this list of things to check:

Potential solutions to why your AAN-powered UrS isn't starting:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/210191.phtml

BTW, since you say you have spark, it is most likely to either be the fuel pump OR the cam sensor. I would start with checking to see that the fuel pump is capable of providing fuel when the fuel pump relay is by-passed:

http://12v.org/urs/Fuel%20Pump%20Tes...eduresRev3.pdf

If the fuel pump works during the test, then I would look at the cam sensor.

[Duffelcoat]

Wow. You can afford a mechanic to stumble around hoping to bump into the answer. Lucky you.

If you were doing the work yourself, I would offer this list of things to check:

Potential solutions to why your AAN-powered UrS isn't starting:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/210191.phtml

BTW, since you say you have spark, it is most likely to either be the fuel pump OR the cam sensor. I would start with checking to see that the fuel pump is capable of providing fuel when the fuel pump relay is by-passed:

http://12v.org/urs/Fuel%20Pump%20Tes...eduresRev3.pdf

If the fuel pump works during the test, then I would look at the cam sensor.

Ummm Not so much afford, just I am very incompetent doing these sort of things myself unfortunately.

My mechanic is a respected Audi specialist and has looked after my previous cars so have no doubt to mis trust him. In any case he hasn't looked at it properly yet as he was trying to squeeze in a bit of time to get it going.

I hear what you are saying, but in the past I usually make things worse by attempting things myself

Cam sensor is new (I think - a few expensive sensor were replaced last time along with the spark plugs) and have asked him to check fuel pump this time.

Will see how it goes this week,

He got me towed for £50 and drove 26 miles round trip to get the coils from the S4 in his own time, so hopefully he will sort it.

Thanks error, I might well be going down that road, hoping to see if the total damage just in case something really bad is up with it before spending...

[Duffelcoat]

Wow. You can afford a mechanic to stumble around hoping to bump into the answer. Lucky you.

If you were doing the work yourself, I would offer this list of things to check:

Potential solutions to why your AAN-powered UrS isn't starting:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/210191.phtml

BTW, since you say you have spark, it is most likely to either be the fuel pump OR the cam sensor. I would start with checking to see that the fuel pump is capable of providing fuel when the fuel pump relay is by-passed:

http://12v.org/urs/Fuel%20Pump%20Tes...eduresRev3.pdf

If the fuel pump works during the test, then I would look at the cam sensor.

PS I did look in the HAynes manual and your links re the fuel pump, but the thought of opening the hatch and messing around with the pump with 70 litres of fuel (Expensive 99 RON stuff) sitting under my ******** was enough to make me not do it!

[BrianSmith_S2]

PS I did look in the HAynes manual and your links re the fuel pump, but the thought of opening the hatch and messing around with the pump with 70 litres of fuel (Expensive 99 RON stuff) sitting under my ******** was enough to make me not do it!

I changed the fuel pump as preventative maintenance today...with fuel down on reserve the pump was easy to change over...actually took longer to remove the carpet and lift the steel plate above tank than the actual pump replacement.

[UrS4boy]

PS I did look in the HAynes manual and your links re the fuel pump, but the thought of opening the hatch and messing around with the pump with 70 litres of fuel (Expensive 99 RON stuff) sitting under my ******** was enough to make me not do it!

I never said ANYTHING about taking your fuel pump out to test it. What I said (on page 1/19 of the pdf that you must have missed) was:

"1) Fuel Pump Testing: If you have starting problems and don't know whether its the cam position sensor or the fuel pump, you can at least confirm that it is or isn't the fuel pump. Sean Douglas (quattro20v) and I used this technique to test our fuel pumps for delivery rates before we developed the fuel pump relay procedure in July/Aug 2004.

To test the fuel pump, you need a long length of wire with a spade connector at one end, an alligator clip on the other end and switch somewhere in the middle - but closer to the spade connector end. Once you have that, you need to open up (break) the inlet connection to the fuel rail (hard piping and braided hose on the driver's side (left hand drive cars)). There may be some residual pressure so only do this when the engine is cold (not a problem if you can't get it started). You need to get a four foot long hose over the connection from the fuel pump. Sean had kept a connector from an old fuel filter so we attached that to the fuel line and then put a hose on that fitting. Either way, you need to get a hose on the connection and be able to run the hose OUTSIDE OF THE CAR to, say, by the front wheel. Place the hose in a gas-compatible container. A 2 L measure cup or graduated cylinder works well.

With the test fuel line in place, pull the fuel pump fuse, No. 17, from the left hand side dash end fuse panel. Stick the spade end of the wire in the right hand side (rear-most) female fuse connector. With the switch in the off position, connect the alligator clip end of the wire to the + post on the right hand cowl side of the engine compartment. With the hose firmly in place in the measuring receptacle, turn the switch on for 15 seconds. Then turn it off. At 12v, the fuel pump should have delivered about 675 mL of fuel in that time (Reference - Pg C20-18 in the Bentley). If you got less, or none, your fuel pump is bad or weak and you need to replace the pump. SEE DIAGRAM ON NEXT PAGE "

[Duffelcoat]

I never said ANYTHING about taking your fuel pump out to test it. What I said (on page 1/19 of the pdf that you must have missed) was:

"1) Fuel Pump Testing: If you have starting problems and don't know whether its the cam position sensor or the fuel pump, you can at least confirm that it is or isn't the fuel pump. Sean Douglas (quattro20v) and I used this technique to test our fuel pumps for delivery rates before we developed the fuel pump relay procedure in July/Aug 2004.

To test the fuel pump, you need a long length of wire with a spade connector at one end, an alligator clip on the other end and switch somewhere in the middle - but closer to the spade connector end. Once you have that, you need to open up (break) the inlet connection to the fuel rail (hard piping and braided hose on the driver's side (left hand drive cars)). There may be some residual pressure so only do this when the engine is cold (not a problem if you can't get it started). You need to get a four foot long hose over the connection from the fuel pump. Sean had kept a connector from an old fuel filter so we attached that to the fuel line and then put a hose on that fitting. Either way, you need to get a hose on the connection and be able to run the hose OUTSIDE OF THE CAR to, say, by the front wheel. Place the hose in a gas-compatible container. A 2 L measure cup or graduated cylinder works well.

With the test fuel line in place, pull the fuel pump fuse, No. 17, from the left hand side dash end fuse panel. Stick the spade end of the wire in the right hand side (rear-most) female fuse connector. With the switch in the off position, connect the alligator clip end of the wire to the + post on the right hand cowl side of the engine compartment. With the hose firmly in place in the measuring receptacle, turn the switch on for 15 seconds. Then turn it off. At 12v, the fuel pump should have delivered about 675 mL of fuel in that time (Reference - Pg C20-18 in the Bentley). If you got less, or none, your fuel pump is bad or weak and you need to replace the pump. SEE DIAGRAM ON NEXT PAGE "

I appreciate your efforts I really do and would like to be able to attempt the above, but it all sounds like Chinese to me, so sorry, but I am the sort of person who sits for three hours planning something simple and then open the bonnet, stare at all the 'things' inside and then close the bonnet and go back inside. It's not that I am stupid, just when it comes to cars I tend to get a mental block and a lack of confidence puts me off. That coupled with not having the right tools (often) and a fear of not being able to put it back to at least the state I started and oh blowing myself up!!

I really should try a bit more I know...

I would have to buy a lot of stuff to do the above, probably from somewhere like B&Q which would cost me £50 and then I end up £50 lighter with a car that is worse than before....

I will email my mechanic though

[UrS4boy]

I appreciate your efforts I really do and would like to be able to attempt the above, but it all sounds like Chinese to me, so sorry, but I am the sort of person who sits for three hours planning something simple and then open the bonnet, stare at all the 'things' inside and then close the bonnet and go back inside.

So you went to the Jeremy Clarkson school of auto mechanics?

Its motto "There is no job too big for my cheque book to handle"

Hope your mechanic is gentle with you.

[Duffelcoat]

So you went to the Jeremy Clarkson school of auto mechanics?

Its motto "There is no job too big for my cheque book to handle"

Hope your mechanic is gentle with you.

What is a 'gas-compatible container' BTW

LOL - Trouble is I don't have Jeremy's cheque book, but if I did I would probably get the car towed to a place and say do this - (Bit like Homer Simpson's car)

[UrS4boy]

What is a 'gas-compatible container' BTW

Clean tin can, polyethylene container or glass jar.

[mcandmar]

My guess is the coil pack wiring failed, shorted out a few wires and released the magic smoke. Two dead coils packs is certainly an issue, however your mechanic needs to look upstream and see if the coilpack rail is still getting power, and also the - rail back through the POS units and into the ECU, and ECU power fuses are all intact. The fact you could smell burning may imply some shorty shorty has happened elsewhere, which would explain the no start condition.

When you say "They have swapped the coils from my S4 (C4) and the car has spark but still does not run", i would be curious as to how they verified there is a spark, did they manually trigger the coils or crank the engine over and confirm the ECU/POS circuit is triggering them. If the later the only thing left is fuel, or possibly the power supply for the injector rail has been taken out with the above meltdown.

Gas-compatible container is a container that dosent dissolve in petrol, a lot of plastics do. ....and for the health and safety fanatics something that is air tight and wont burn.

[UrS4boy]

....PS I did look in the Haynes manual...

Which Haynes is this? I have Haynes 3504 which is for the C4s but it says zero about the AAN. Is there one that deals with the AAN 20V turbo engine too? If there is I will look for a copy.

[macspring]

Hi Duffel,

I note your position re stuff under the bonnet, and tools, stay friendly with that mechanic, he seems inexpensive, and willing, but spoonfeed him with mcandmar's comments, and of course the info provided by Dave.

You're a brave man owning these cars with your current mechanical abilities.

The car intimidated me when I first got mine, but this forum is a godsend, and has allowed me to manage my fleet most of the time, and if it gets too complicated, I call mcandmar. . and post on the forum.

@ Dave, you have to be more patient as not everyone at the same level of knowledge with these cars, and I include myself in that.

Looking forward to seeing what the fault turns out to be.

Kind regards.

[UrS4boy]

...@ Dave, you have to be more patient as not everyone at the same level of knowledge with these cars, and I include myself in that.
Looking forward to seeing what the fault turns out to be.
Kind regards.

Yeh, apologies Mr. Coat. I thought he was more mechanically minded and was just trying to spur him on to test the fuel pump before releasing the hounds (mechanics) on his beast (UrS).

I too will be most interested in the fault and its fix.