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I've had the same thing this week. Booked in for its remap Friday up at Automark and it picks Sunday to break down!!! I was considering mine as a new sensor but i had fitted it 10 years ago!!
So further to this , whipped off middle cross member pulled aux rad out of the way cable tied timing belt to top pulley then removed pulley to get at G40 , had crap over the magnetic part and tiny metallic specks so guessing it's where the cup on back of pulley passes and very lightly rubbed on it , so anyway cleaned all up as thought it may be that easy and refitted. Starts fine and left it running for 10 so up to temp. Turned off and tried again and hey presto.... Just cranking. So it's the sensor that seems to pack up when warm as said above then when cools down starts the car , hence why it catches so many out.. So new one required. Hey ho.
So further to this , whipped off middle cross member pulled aux rad out of the way cable tied timing belt to top pulley then removed pulley to get at G40 , had crap over the magnetic part and tiny metallic specks so guessing it's where the cup on back of pulley passes and very lightly rubbed on it , so anyway cleaned all up as thought it may be that easy and refitted. .
Did you ever get a DTC on this?
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
The other test for a failing G40 that produces a non-start when hot/warm is to pour cold water down behind the cam belt cover (pull the cover slightly open and get the cold water down behind the cam sprocket). If you get a start then, it is a failing G40, code or not code.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
The other test for a failing G40 that produces a non-start when hot/warm is to pour cold water down behind the cam belt cover (pull the cover slightly open and get the cold water down behind the cam sprocket). If you get a start then, it is a failing G40, code or not code.
Yep ok. But I was trying to suss what happens to the sensor when hot that affects it .? As it looks like new as was in 2013 .
Shot in the dark but had almost an identical thing happen to one of my RS2s a few years ago...codes were thrown up on scans parts changed and cleaned etc...turned out to be a corroded cable to the starter motor. Well worth checking as I know the same thing happened to another owner too. Best of luck bud.
S2 + RS2 yep ive had a few love em... Laser red S2 avant... Brilliant black lhd RS2... Polar silver RS2... RS blau RS2... CheeRS Al
Shot in the dark but had almost an identical thing happen to one of my RS2s a few years ago...codes were thrown up on scans parts changed and cleaned etc...turned out to be a corroded cable to the starter motor. Well worth checking as I know the same thing happened to another owner too. Best of luck bud.
Cheers mate. , just out of interest did it throw the 515 code too ?
Shot in the dark but had almost an identical thing happen to one of my RS2s a few years ago...codes were thrown up on scans parts changed and cleaned etc...turned out to be a corroded cable to the starter motor. Well worth checking as I know the same thing happened to another owner too. Best of luck bud.
The reason why that might have made sense would be the corrosion prevented enough current to reach the starter (especially when the engine was warm (and tighter)) and thereby prevent the starter from spinning the engine at >13 RPM. Less than that and the ECU will not take the J17 Fuel Pump relay to ground (Via ECU pin T55/3) and thereby energize the FP relay.
Thereby, today's lesson endith
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Think while I'm at the G40 sensor I'm gonna assemble bits needed for cam belt change, inc idler pulley water pump etc and other belts, makes sense I guess, been looking thru history and last time was done was 2009 , not many miles since then it's the years .
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