I am beaten

[DEREKCO]

I am beaten

Hi yes i can get the revs up to 2k with a struggle but it does not stay there eventually the revs drop.When i start the engine it's good then the tickover drops if i try and throttle it the engine just about stalls release the throttle it picks up slightly then drops to lumpy tickover then stops

[Bowie69]

And the exhaust stinks of fuel after stall?

[newsh]

Maybe the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is split or the vac pipe to it?

[Bowie69]

I'm still suspect of the exhaust blocked, or maybe the return fuel line is crimped/blocked....?

[Fat Audi 80]

Have you dropped the exhaust to check the cats? They can break up and block the exhaust causing non running issues...

HTH

Cheers

Steve

[LHD_Kid]

Really does sound like cats broken down and blockimg exhaust... looks like you've checked or changed pretty much everything else...

[Bowie69]

Ah, a really good test for this I just remembered.... remove the lambda probe from the exhaust, this will

a) Sound horrid of course
b) Release the pressure enough to allow the car to run

Very well worth doing, and a lot easier than dropping the exhaust.

[prj]

Even a lambda pagged either way will only alter fuelling a very small amount, maybe up to say 10% (I don't know how these ECUs handle it entirely), it is just a fuel trim, and often actually not used at idle because it produces a wandering/erratic idle.

So, I, personally, would be looking elsewhere.

Oh, just checking the other thread, the lambda has been changed.

All of this information is completely false.
Lambda trim is up to 25%, it is always used on idle.

Just unplugging the MAF is likely to stick it in limp-home mode, which would mean it would at least still run -it is one way to test.

Actually it runs Alpha-N on AAN/ABY/ADU and a single 1D fixed load map on 3B.
Both of these run really bad, and stall very often, so it is completely pointless to test.

---

Why not bring the car to someone who knows what they are doing?

[Bowie69]

All of this information is completely false.

Actually it runs Alpha-N on AAN/ABY/ADU and a single 1D fixed load map on 3B.
Both of these run really bad, and stall very often, so it is completely pointless to test.

But it would at least run at idle? That is the point of the test, at least to get it running more than 2 minutes, or change the characteristics of the fault.

[Bowie69]

I would also say, even at 25% (which is a massive 'trim') over fuelling would still not cause the engine to stall, especially if held at 2K rpm.

I would still say, whilst the guess of 10% was wrong, the suggestion that a lambda can cause your fuelling to double is wrong, and therefore a lambda could very easily be discounted. I even said 'often not used at idle', which is true in other ECUs.

I know you know what you're doing PRJ, nothing doubting that, but you can add to a discussion by contributing to it rather than behaving in a confrontational 'you have no clue what you are talking about' manner when all a user is trying to do is help...

[mike74]

If the cats are clogged to the extent of shutting the engine down after a couple of minutes you'd probably be able to see the exhaust/cats glowing or feel unusual amounts of heat being generated. Personally I don't think its anything to do with the exhaust or cats, having just dealt with a broken (internally) cat on my own car.
If it was my car I'd be checking the simple things first and going from there. First point of call would be making sure all earths are good (& present). Second thing would be to go through all the electrical connections in the engine bay and spray them out with contact cleaner or WD40 or the like in case its 'just' moisture somewhere. Then I'd probably go through the fuse box and assorted relays and check/clean those connections. At least by doing this you would know that it isn't something daft manifesting as a more serious problem. If that lot doesn't work I might be tempted to do a boost leak test to prove the intake system/PCV is good. IF none of that fixes it then its probably more likely to be a power/earth problem to a specific system but that should throw a code?!

[prj]

But it would at least run at idle? That is the point of the test, at least to get it running more than 2 minutes, or change the characteristics of the fault.

No, it won't, it will constantly stall at idle and when driving.

I would also say, even at 25% (which is a massive 'trim') over fuelling would still not cause the engine to stall, especially if held at 2K rpm.

If it reads lean yes, why do you assume it reads lean?
If it reads rich however, ECU will push the fueling to 19:1 AFR and the engine WILL stall. The 2.2T can NOT run at 19:1 AFR on gasoline.

I would still say, whilst the guess of 10% was wrong, the suggestion that a lambda can cause your fuelling to double is wrong, and therefore a lambda could very easily be discounted.

It can't, read above. Lambda works two ways.

I even said 'often not used at idle', which is true in other ECUs.

Which ECU exactly? Every single production car ECU from EU2 on has closed loop lambda control on idle, it is required by law to keep the catalytic converter at best efficiency. Also the car will NOT pass MOT if it was not in closed loop.

I know you know what you're doing PRJ, nothing doubting that, but you can add to a discussion by contributing to it rather than behaving in a confrontational 'you have no clue what you are talking about' manner when all a user is trying to do is help...

Except you are not helping by posting misinformation on a subject which is clearly foreign to you.
This is why forum suck - everyone qualified or not has an opinion. Better bring the car to someone who knows what they are doing and does it for a living, be fixed quicker than it took to write this forum post.

[Bowie69]

I'm not going to argue, only say your style of post still sucks, much like you think this forum sucks. If it is that bad why bother to be on here?

I may not know everything (and I suspect nor do you), but if I do need to correct someone on a forum there's no way I would do it like you are -would you say that to my face? No, I doubt it

I notice your only real advice to Derek is to take it to a professional, maybe he will heed that, if he can.

[prj]

I'm not going to argue, only say your style of post still sucks, much like you think this forum sucks. If it is that bad why bother to be on here?

I missed an S - forums are usually pretty bad to ask for mechanical issues on the car, as someone with knowledge can fix it in a fraction of the time.

I may not know everything (and I suspect nor do you), but if I do need to correct someone on a forum there's no way I would do it like you are -would you say that to my face? No, I doubt it

Actually I would.
A lot of things wrong with cars are because of people who know just the right amount to be dangerous - meaning they do not know for a fact how anything works, but they known enough technobabble to make it seem to those less informed as if they are experts on the subject.

Now, don't take it personally. But it's just the way you came across.
I understand you were trying to help, but you are doing the complete opposite if you provide information that is blatantly false.

[Bowie69]

Yes, the written text over the internet can be very easily misinterpreted, especially when it transcends languages, locations and cultures -it is why I always err on the safe side of keeping it very polite.