Macspring, off with the winter plus spec rims and on with some Boleros for summer. Will report back on suspension, but in terms of look the front is good with H&R. The rear Eibach springs that were on matched it closest in terms of ride height. However, i had the rears changed to H&R just because i thought that seemed logical, but i now think the rear sits too low. So i might end up refitting the rear Eibach springs. Trial and error.
UrS6 Broken pedal box + clutch master cylinder
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New front shocks and springs are very nice. Tracking done as well John
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Macspring, off with the winter plus spec rims and on with some Boleros for summer. Will report back on suspension, but in terms of look the front is good with H&R. The rear Eibach springs that were on matched it closest in terms of ride height. However, i had the rears changed to H&R just because i thought that seemed logical, but i now think the rear sits too low. So i might end up refitting the rear Eibach springs. Trial and error. -
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Will try and work it out from etka where the spring goes, heater ducting spring sounds a good possibility thanks.
Brakes are fine now. I thought it would clear partway through a journey, but a week or so later i started driving, tested the brakes were back to normal overnight
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Wheel bearing replaced today, H&R springs front and rear with B8 Bilsteins. New wheels this weekend
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No idea on the spring I'm afraid but if doesn't look very strong so can't be for moving big stuff? How about doing a Google images search for Audi s6 pedal box. I find loads of information from diagrams online - search usually returns factory manual / etka extracts
As for the brakes, I agree with Newsh - warped discs are rare, deposits on the surface are not. You Deffo have rust on them and depending on what pads you use, you may have transferred material from pad to disc. Harder to get rid of unfortunately. I've tried no end of pads over the years and found o. E spec Textar pads give the least vibration problems over their service life. I only drive car on the road and not too fast so don't have to deal with massive heat.Leave a comment:
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All good in the clutch department. Does anyone know where this spring goes
. Only noticed it after removing some of the plastic trim to gain better access to the pedal box area. Now have no idea where it's meant to go.
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Brakes seem to be getting better after some more use after 50 miles or so. I will persevere and hopefully they will be fine. I've never had vibration/wobble like that under braking i can only assume some brake pad was stuck to the discs as you say Newsh.Leave a comment:
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Well done Michael!
Having just done the clutch pushrod in my son’s GFs cabby I know where you’ve been.
Discs are almost never warped, it will probably be some rust from being parked up or some friction material stuck to the discs, a few heavy braking cycles fro 70 down to 40 might just sort it.
Incidentally I pretty much never leave my handbrake on any more unless I’m out and on a slope, just leave it in gear.Leave a comment:
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Mike, it's probably just the rust causing the brake vibration but if it's that bad you're likely going to need new discs(and pads)......if you're lucky and you persevere they might just clean themselves up!
Have you done many miles since fixing the pedal?Leave a comment:
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Michael, your description of how you did it was the same as what I did. "Easier" to fix it in situ than take out the pedal box.
Would be great if someone made up a plate for all the RHD UrS6 cars.
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Thanks Colin. Frustrating to say the least, but hopefully that's it. I've not replaced all the trim so i can check everything is still tight after a few more miles.
Fairly sure the brake problem is unrelated, the discs look seriously rusty after sitting idle outside for a month and they are less than a year old
. Anyway i'm paying someone else to look at the brakes i've had enough DIY for a while
Last edited by Michael S2; 24 March 2018, 22:27.Leave a comment:
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Not a nice job to tackle by the look/sound of it- good for you tackling it, Mike.Refitted everything which wasn't easy. Worst part was getting the hard line to screw back into the master cylinder. I was ages at it. Bled clutch and so far so good.
Worst job I have done on a car ever. I also have a long spring lying in my drivers footwell. I have no idea where this goes...any ideas? Will grab a photo.
Also my brake discs must be warped as there is some serious vibration when braking which wasn't there pre clutch failure.
Someone with more mechanical suss than me will be along to point out a possible explanation for your brake judder after the pedal box mods- good luck sorting!Leave a comment:
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Refitted everything which wasn't easy. Worst part was getting the hard line to screw back into the master cylinder. I was ages at it. Bled clutch and so far so good.
Worst job I have done on a car ever. I also have a long spring lying in my drivers footwell. I have no idea where this goes...any ideas? Will grab a photo.
Also my brake discs must be warped as there is some serious vibration when braking which wasn't there pre clutch failure.Leave a comment:
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