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Modified URS6 running rich

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  • Modified URS6 running rich

    I have recently acquired a 1996 URS6 running circa 400whp with a Gt3071R, I'm struggling to pass the UK exhaust emissions test as it is running very rich indeed


    Parts checked so far..........(updated as I check)
    ECU coolant temp sensor
    Lambda sensor
    FPR 4bar
    Vacuum lines
    Pressure tested intercooler pipes and hoses


    Does this leave me with the MAF, MAP and FPR?

    When unplugging the MAF at idle the engine changes note and speed significantly


    I plan to fit a Wideband to see what the actual AFR is but before this any help is greatfully appreciated
    Last edited by S4Marc; 2 July 2018, 10:03.

  • #2
    I ate two maf's when I had a 2871r. Car ran like crap when the MAF was broke. My money is on the MAF

    Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

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    • #3
      My gut feeling was MAF but at £350 I wanted to be 110% sure I was right

      Where did you get your MAF's from?

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      • #4
        It was a number of years ago when a MAF was more easily obtained. I suspect a Bosch dealer is your best bet. You could try borrowing one to be sure?

        Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          You need standalone or retune it on my SD mode firmware.
          You will constantly go through MAF's and it's quite expensive these days.
          http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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          • #6
            What is it that kills the MAF?

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            • #7
              The high velocity of the air would actually break the wire off in mine.

              Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                Little update

                I have obtained a narrowband as there is no wideband exhaust bung

                * It was mapped by Mihnea

                * At idle the narrowband gauge is oscillating as you would expect (trying to keep stoich lambda)

                * Removed the MAF and the platinum wire looks perfect

                * Unplug the MAF during warm-up and the engine dies, unplug the MAF when engine is warm and no chaneg at all

                * Raise the revs off idle and the narrowband instantly goes into rich (I would expect to see it oscillating under light throttle)



                Just to clarify that the lambda and Coolant sensor have both been changed

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                • #9
                  Sorry, to say but you have done absolutely nothing of use.
                  http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by prj View Post
                    Sorry, to say but you have done absolutely nothing of use.
                    Could you suggest the correct route to go down? without spending vast amounts of money on a car which is potentially scrap as it has no MOT
                    Last edited by S4Marc; 11 June 2018, 09:45.

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                    • #11
                      If you have no money then scrap it or sell it to someone who has.
                      Most likely the MAF is gone, and it needs mapping from the ground up on standalone or my m232 mod, as replacing the MAF on this car is a waste of money.

                      Well you need to pressure test it before of course, but I guess that's also "spending money".
                      http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by prj View Post
                        If you have no money then scrap it or sell it to someone who has.
                        Most likely the MAF is gone, and it needs mapping from the ground up on standalone or my m232 mod, as replacing the MAF on this car is a waste of money.

                        Well you need to pressure test it before of course, but I guess that's also "spending money".
                        Sorry I should have been clearer

                        The car has sat in my friends garage for 8yrs now, there are not alot of these cars left and I want to bring her back to her former glory and save her from the scrap pile

                        The issue with money is like the chicken and the Egg, in the UK we have a yearly MOT to prove the cars roadworthiness. It seems silly to spend alot of money on the car remedying the rich running before passing an MOT...........but it won't pass an MOT running rich (emission test)

                        I am happy to spend money

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by prj View Post
                          If you have no money then scrap it or sell it to someone who has.
                          Most likely the MAF is gone, and it needs mapping from the ground up on standalone or my m232 mod, as replacing the MAF on this car is a waste of money.

                          Well you need to pressure test it before of course, but I guess that's also "spending money".
                          What would the approximate cost of a standalone ecu plus UK mapping cost? Or your M232 mod?

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                          • #14
                            How rich are we talking when it went to the MOT ?
                            The usual recomendation is to check for fault codes and do a pressure test of the induction system to check for leaks. You would need Vagcom/VCDS and a compressor and bung for the pressure test. I don't believe there is any fault codes for the MAF but there is one reading that might confirm that the MAF is out of calibration.
                            What is the spec of the rest of the modifications in particular the injectors? If they are the dekka ones then I think they are notorious for issues especially around idle!
                            Understandably you want to MOT the vehicle so you can drive it legally. One way would be to source a stock ecu and set of injectors and see if that sorted the issue out, at least for MOT emission purposes. Then either that or the original ecu could be modified as per PRJ M232 which essentially converts the Motronic to Mafless (speed density) so no more maf issues and is mapable, assuming you have the capability, for your mods. A stand alone would ned to be set up from scratch more or less.
                            Of course nobody wants to waste money so its better to test and eliminate things as scientifically as possible.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by twoqu View Post
                              How rich are we talking when it went to the MOT ?
                              The usual recomendation is to check for fault codes and do a pressure test of the induction system to check for leaks. You would need Vagcom/VCDS and a compressor and bung for the pressure test. I don't believe there is any fault codes for the MAF but there is one reading that might confirm that the MAF is out of calibration.
                              What is the spec of the rest of the modifications in particular the injectors? If they are the dekka ones then I think they are notorious for issues especially around idle!
                              Understandably you want to MOT the vehicle so you can drive it legally. One way would be to source a stock ecu and set of injectors and see if that sorted the issue out, at least for MOT emission purposes. Then either that or the original ecu could be modified as per PRJ M232 which essentially converts the Motronic to Mafless (speed density) so no more maf issues and is mapable, assuming you have the capability, for your mods. A stand alone would ned to be set up from scratch more or less.
                              Of course nobody wants to waste money so its better to test and eliminate things as scientifically as possible.
                              The MOT tester said it was running sooo rich he was surprised petrol wasn't dripping out of the exhaust

                              It's a very difficult situation to be in due to the cars rarity, another car you would borrow or purchase a few known good items (MAF, ECU etc) and start to eliminate items.........unfortunately this is not easy on this car as standard ECU's seem to be £400-500 on ebay

                              I made a phone call to MRC and they won't work on aftermarket ECU's only the motronic, he estimated the repair (from previous experience without seeing the car) £800-1200


                              Sadly I think the best option is to sell the car complete and hope a more knowledgeable person can save her but the car also needs a full respray due to lacquer peel.........Keep your eyes peeled in the forum classifieds in the near future

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