1997 Audi 80 Cabriolet issues, Please Help

[Shyam]

Audicted, I had a look at rev counter connections and such, everything seemed to be in order. I disconnected the connector, gave it a little brush and wag, connected back in and still no luck. So i think the problem lies in the gauge or at the sensor. Did take the cluster pod out again and took it apart to give internals a good clean up. Going to connect it all back in later tonight and see if it fixed the rev gauge. (hopefully didn't break anything else in the process)

Anyone know where the sensor for tachometer is located?

Also just wanted to add; big up the s2forum massive! You guys are awesome. I posted two separate posts before coming here, one in vwaudiforum.com and the other in audiworld.com and everyone there left me hanging like that mona lisa painting. I've had a great wealth of advice/help here! Hopefully I'll offer more interesting threads in the future as I do have some plans in the pipeline for 1.8 20v turbo engine conversion.

[Shyam]

Thanks Audicted, I thought the fuse-box was under the hood near windscreen on driver side? Is there a second fuse box?

Does anyone have any relay/fuse box diagrams? Would be very useful. Thanks

[Shyam]

I think we have signs that head gasket might be on its way out, getting a fair amount of white smoke aswell (although there was redex in the tank)

[newsh]

Dude that's not the head gasket, that's the rocker cover [emoji6]

[Shyam]

Dude that's not the head gasket, that's the rocker cover [emoji6]

haha oh dear, how stupid do I feel. I'm going to blame it on tiredness from early morning starts combined with working in the dark.

Will examine the head/bottom end seal more carefully tomorrow as I am seeing a lot of white smoke. No mayonnaise under oil cap and its not eating any coolant. Could just be dirty fuel filter or because theres redex in the tank and the oil is really dirty mind you.

[newsh]

Or a lot of condensation in the exhaust, it's that time of year

[Audicted]

These cars have three relay locations: Under the bonnet (this you know), above the knee bolster under the steering wheel (here lives the #367 relay) and under the rear seat.

Take a look here :http://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+cab.../937-937070/#9

[Shyam]

These cars have three relay locations: Under the bonnet (this you know), above the knee bolster under the steering wheel (here lives the #367 relay) and under the rear seat.

Take a look here :http://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+cab.../937-937070/#9

Thanks Audicted, again very useful stuff.

I had no idea, I have a sort of shelf panel under my steering wheel. I presume it's under that? Would I need to remove that shelf panel to get to it.

Well I've f****** the cluster pod. I connected it back in after second clean up and turned the key. First noticed a couple of bulbs have gone out from back light and also neither temp gauge or tachometer is responding now. Guess I'm going to have to source another cluster pod.

[80Quattro]

In response to your original post, I know most of these have been covered, but just to add what I can.

1. I'd start by reading the codes, there may well be nothing, but it's worth checking.

2. Temp gauge, put star washers under the nuts holding the gauge to the PCB, they are so sensitive to resistance, this is the only solution I've found that works long term. I've not seen a rev counter fail before, but if you've got the cluster out you could check the tracks on the PCB, I have seen one burn out before.

3. Driver's window is probably the motor, but check for 12v at the switch before assuming it is.

4. I'm aware that you can read the codes on the roof but I haven't done it myself, there are so many microswitches that it would be a big help to know where to start. I don't think it is the window stopping the roof from working, I had the passenger window motor fail on my cab and the roof still functioned fine, it would at least drop the other windows a few inches when you operated the roof switch.

5. This could well be the root of your roof issues, it'll be the wiring where it is flexed by opening the boot lit, pull it out and replace all the damaged sections, once you work out how to get it open that is! The roof control unit requires the boot to be closed and that signal probably isn't getting through. It should still unlock/open with the key though, try lubricating the lock barrel.

6. Is your engine upto temperature when you're checking these? The oil pressure will be off the scale until it warms up, if it never moves from there then you need a new sender. The temperature will probably hardly move in winter temps unless you go for a reasonable motorway journey, it might be fine.

[Shyam]

Or a lot of condensation in the exhaust, it's that time of year

Indeed, the smoke did seem to be dense and less vapor-like but it was cold and misty. I'm hoping the smoke and slight misfire on idle goes away once I've replaced spark plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter.

When will summer start!? I want to bring the hood down (even if I have to do it manually), it's my first ever cabriolet! haha

In response to your original post, I know most of these have been covered, but just to add what I can.

1. I'd start by reading the codes, there may well be nothing, but it's worth checking.

2. Temp gauge, put star washers under the nuts holding the gauge to the PCB, they are so sensitive to resistance, this is the only solution I've found that works long term. I've not seen a rev counter fail before, but if you've got the cluster out you could check the tracks on the PCB, I have seen one burn out before.

3. Driver's window is probably the motor, but check for 12v at the switch before assuming it is.

4. I'm aware that you can read the codes on the roof but I haven't done it myself, there are so many microswitches that it would be a big help to know where to start. I don't think it is the window stopping the roof from working, I had the passenger window motor fail on my cab and the roof still functioned fine, it would at least drop the other windows a few inches when you operated the roof switch.

5. This could well be the root of your roof issues, it'll be the wiring where it is flexed by opening the boot lit, pull it out and replace all the damaged sections, once you work out how to get it open that is! The roof control unit requires the boot to be closed and that signal probably isn't getting through. It should still unlock/open with the key though, try lubricating the lock barrel.

6. Is your engine upto temperature when you're checking these? The oil pressure will be off the scale until it warms up, if it never moves from there then you need a new sender. The temperature will probably hardly move in winter temps unless you go for a reasonable motorway journey, it might be fine.

Quattro80, thanks for joining the thread and sharing advice. Grateful as ever.

1. I think my car has one of those old style DLC plugs for code reading? I didn't think they were as informative as the OBD's.

2. Yes, I'm going to have another go at the cluster pod tonight. Made it worse than it already was last night, such a temperamental thing.

3. I'm pretty sure switches are fine as they are illuminating but should really check it with multi-meter.

4.Ah right, well I was really hoping that fixing the driver side window would fix the roof and boot lid issues or let me get into the boot at the very least!

5. Yes, I am struggling to get boot lid open with my key. It's actually very frustrating. The guy who sold me the car opened it in front of my eyes and showed me how to do it. I didn't take too much notice of what he was showing me as it all looked very straight forward, didn't realize there was some special way of doing it

6. Engine is up to temperature. Yesterday I left it on idle for a while waiting for the temp gauge to move. After much waiting, the radiator fans turned on so that tells me the sensors are fine and it's the actually gauge that's malfunctioning. Oil temp always seems to stay on minimum and oil pressure always stays on maximum, haven't done any long journeys yet so will need to see.

[Audicted]

5. Yes, I am struggling to get boot lid open with my key. It's actually very frustrating. The guy who sold me the car opened it in front of my eyes and showed me how to do it. I didn't take too much notice of what he was showing me as it all looked very straight forward, didn't realize there was some special way of doing it

Did you push the lock cylinder inwards as you turned the key? if the rams are shot, you may have to give it an assist.

[Shyam]

5. Yes, I am struggling to get boot lid open with my key. It's actually very frustrating. The guy who sold me the car opened it in front of my eyes and showed me how to do it. I didn't take too much notice of what he was showing me as it all looked very straight forward, didn't realize there was some special way of doing it

Did you push the lock cylinder inwards as you turned the key? if the rams are shot, you may have to give it an assist.

Yes I pushing tried inwanrds and turning the key. I haven't tried pulling outwards and turning the key(without key slipping out), gonna give that a shot later. Can you confirm how the locked position looks, is the keyhole vertical placed or horizontal?

[Grillage]

Here's the Bentley's rundown of the top testing procedure. It's intense:

[Bowie69]

Oil pressure gauge could be connected incorrectly at the sender on the engine, this makes it go full scale.

[Shyam]

Here's the Bentley's rundown of the top testing procedure. It's intense:

Grillage, great stuff. Might need to get myself a code reader. Any recommendations?
I'm still waiting to try your method in taking roof down the manual way but the weather here has been a joke. Raining everyday.

Oil pressure gauge could be connected incorrectly at the sender on the engine, this makes it go full scale.

Bowie, that makes sense. Gave it a couple of taps with a soft hammer yesterday to see if it would do anything. It didn't, might need to source one but I've been told it's a ******* to change.