incorporated an M14 x 1.5 thread for a catch can return into the puck design. Once they are back from anodizing I think everyone will be pleased.
Who wanted black in the above list?
Group Buy Interest - Billet Crankcase Breather - 054 103 129
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Typically Dual inlet into the catch can and from the top of the catch can it goes either to atmosphere via a filter or back into the intake stream pre turbocharger but post MAF (so the inlet boot).Leave a comment:
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So if I were to add a billet breather, it would tee into the valve cover line and then into the catch can?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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Head breathing only is how my strokers are too. Seems good enough.
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After looking at my stroker block, it would appear my builder didn't include a block breather (except a baffled AN-10 outlet on the valve cover).
Would this instance put me over the edge, from a "nice to have" basis to a "need to have" basis while running >20psi?Leave a comment:
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Again if you are in Netherlands , contact HenkjanThese will be $145 USD + shipping / 95 GBP
If you are in England , I would prefer if you paid Brian directly
Everywhere else you can paypal me directly.
If you want the AN-12 to 1.25" Barb fitting , they are $19 USD and come in various colours (black , red , blue or silver)
if you want an AN-12 to AN-12 male union ORB for a catch can they are $8 or can be had @ any local fitting place.
Shipping to Europe will be $67 USD
Shipping everywhere else , just send over the payment and once I have your address from Paypal ill send over a request for the shipping.
If you want to reserve your spot , "Click here to send it via paypal. The more we have the better it is for anodizing etc.
if you are in the UK contact Brian Tonks.Leave a comment:
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Was asked this via PM so I am going to post here for all as to the changes that were made since inception:
- the block plate will still be tappered and will still have an o-ring allthough again I think epoxy would be a better choice. Expecting your 25 year old block to be as new would be a bit optimisticKey features will include:
- Tapered back plate w/o-ring to allow for proper sealing once it is installed in the block
- T6061 Aluminum construction for that Bling factor
-Anodized in Clear / Black / Red or Gold
- AN-16 female tap to those who want to run a catch can can use an AN-16 male union and run a line to your catch can or if you want to use your OEM line , an AN-16 to barb fitting is available.
- 8AN plug included for a catch can return.
- Laser cut baffling plate on the back side to aid in crankcase baffling.
- Still T6061
- Not sure on Red anodized but will see once we get there
- Changed to AN-12 for more common sizes
- The catch can oil return is M14 x 1.5 not 8-AN so if you want 8-AN you will get an M14 x 1.5 to 8-AN male union
- No laser cutting of a baffling plate. I have CNC'ed it into the plate that gets wedged to the engine block.
HTHLeave a comment:
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send over an email : iabed@iabedindustries.comLast edited by Wizard-of-OD; 15 July 2016, 08:37.Leave a comment:
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Hi issam could I have another pleaseUPDATE : JULY 5TH 2016:
Ignoring Martin for now , this is Revision 4 of the base and REV01 of the puck.
On the CNC tonight is Revision 5 of the base and REV02 of the puck.
I tried to make a base specific to certain codes but that proved to be pointless so what we have done is add a 0.005" step so basically you give the base a decent dead blow until it stops. I would almost recommend epoxy of some sort considering the OEM is a tan can and basically deforms to the block. Of course if you are satisfied with your hammering abilities then you won't need epoxy.
It goes without saying that I am humbly sorry for the insane wait time on this but anyone who has ever purchased a machine part from me will know that I don't ship garbage. Id rather you be pissed @ the wait time than be pissed at the product.
The puck itself is seeing a revision as we are stepping down to an AN-12 . AN-12 has more common sizes available and even has an AN-12 to 1.25" barb (in stock).
The Meziere unit has the same size hex on it as the AN-16's on the AN-12's which means we wont have to make any changes to that operation (which is good).
I will have return to AN-16's (or use them) depending on what Meziere says.
I will also be making the arrow more pronounced so as to ensure what direction is up
Without further explanation here is the pictures of what it looks likes. You can get a decent amount of steel wool in there to help with the catch can.
This is with a slight tap with the rubber hammer:

The puck installed which has an o-ring on the puck face that meets the block plate . (can use alot of steel wool in there)

With the fitting installed:

and one more picture for good measure:

As of right now this is the list:
I have 50 being made over the course of the next 2 days. Whoever asked or wanted an additional 1 , now is the time as I won't be making more of these for a LONG time.
Leave a comment:
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UPDATE : JULY 5TH 2016:
Ignoring Martin for now , this is Revision 4 of the base and REV01 of the puck.
On the CNC tonight is Revision 5 of the base and REV02 of the puck.
I tried to make a base specific to certain codes but that proved to be pointless so what we have done is add a 0.005" step so basically you give the base a decent dead blow until it stops. I would almost recommend epoxy of some sort considering the OEM is a tan can and basically deforms to the block. Of course if you are satisfied with your hammering abilities then you won't need epoxy.
It goes without saying that I am humbly sorry for the insane wait time on this but anyone who has ever purchased a machine part from me will know that I don't ship garbage. Id rather you be pissed @ the wait time than be pissed at the product.
The puck itself is seeing a revision as we are stepping down to an AN-12 . AN-12 has more common sizes available and even has an AN-12 to 1.25" barb (in stock).
The Meziere unit has the same size hex on it as the AN-16's on the AN-12's which means we wont have to make any changes to that operation (which is good).
I will have return to AN-16's (or use them) depending on what Meziere says.
I will also be making the arrow more pronounced so as to ensure what direction is up
Without further explanation here is the pictures of what it looks likes. You can get a decent amount of steel wool in there to help with the catch can.
This is with a slight tap with the rubber hammer:

The puck installed which has an o-ring on the puck face that meets the block plate . (can use alot of steel wool in there)

With the fitting installed:

and one more picture for good measure:

As of right now this is the list:
I have 50 being made over the course of the next 2 days. Whoever asked or wanted an additional 1 , now is the time as I won't be making more of these for a LONG time.- Wizard-of-OD - PAID
- Wizard-of-OD - PAID
- Wizard-of-OD - PAID
- Daniel Terre - PAID
- JSOL - PAID
- Jelle.. - PAID
- EFI EXPRESS - PAID
- EFI EXPRESS - PAID
- EFI EXPRESS - PAID
- EFI EXPRESS - PAID
- EFI EXPRESS - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Henkjan - PAID
- Jukkis - PAID
- Tonks4x4 - PAID
- Tonks4x4 - PAID
- Tonks4x4 - PAID
- Tonks4x4 - PAID
- Tonks4x4 - PAID
- fbatwork - PAID
- fbatwork - PAID
- Cypres83 - PAID
- orignalS60 - PAID
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