Group Buy Interest - Billet Crankcase Breather - 054 103 129

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  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    incorporated an M14 x 1.5 thread for a catch can return into the puck design. Once they are back from anodizing I think everyone will be pleased.
    Who wanted black in the above list?

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  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Originally posted by PRY4SNO
    So if I were to add a billet breather, it would tee into the valve cover line and then into the catch can?
    Typically Dual inlet into the catch can and from the top of the catch can it goes either to atmosphere via a filter or back into the intake stream pre turbocharger but post MAF (so the inlet boot).

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  • PRY4SNO
    replied
    So if I were to add a billet breather, it would tee into the valve cover line and then into the catch can?

    Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

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  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Originally posted by diesel des
    Head breathing only is how my strokers are too. Seems good enough.
    Never seen a high performance motor with JUST cylinder head breathing. They have always had crankcase and valve cover.

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Originally posted by PRY4SNO
    After looking at my stroker block, it would appear my builder didn't include a block breather (except a baffled AN-10 outlet on the valve cover).

    Would this instance put me over the edge, from a "nice to have" basis to a "need to have" basis while running >20psi?
    Head breathing only is how my strokers are too. Seems good enough.

    Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

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  • PRY4SNO
    replied
    After looking at my stroker block, it would appear my builder didn't include a block breather (except a baffled AN-10 outlet on the valve cover).

    Would this instance put me over the edge, from a "nice to have" basis to a "need to have" basis while running >20psi?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Originally posted by Wizard-of-OD
    These will be $145 USD + shipping / 95 GBP
    If you are in England , I would prefer if you paid Brian directly
    Everywhere else you can paypal me directly.

    If you want the AN-12 to 1.25" Barb fitting , they are $19 USD and come in various colours (black , red , blue or silver)
    if you want an AN-12 to AN-12 male union ORB for a catch can they are $8 or can be had @ any local fitting place.

    Shipping to Europe will be $67 USD
    Shipping everywhere else , just send over the payment and once I have your address from Paypal ill send over a request for the shipping.

    If you want to reserve your spot , "Click here to send it via paypal. The more we have the better it is for anodizing etc.
    Again if you are in Netherlands , contact Henkjan
    if you are in the UK contact Brian Tonks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Was asked this via PM so I am going to post here for all as to the changes that were made since inception:
    Originally posted by Wizard-of-OD
    Key features will include:
    - Tapered back plate w/o-ring to allow for proper sealing once it is installed in the block
    - T6061 Aluminum construction for that Bling factor
    -Anodized in Clear / Black / Red or Gold
    - AN-16 female tap to those who want to run a catch can can use an AN-16 male union and run a line to your catch can or if you want to use your OEM line , an AN-16 to barb fitting is available.
    - 8AN plug included for a catch can return.
    - Laser cut baffling plate on the back side to aid in crankcase baffling.
    - the block plate will still be tappered and will still have an o-ring allthough again I think epoxy would be a better choice. Expecting your 25 year old block to be as new would be a bit optimistic
    - Still T6061
    - Not sure on Red anodized but will see once we get there
    - Changed to AN-12 for more common sizes
    - The catch can oil return is M14 x 1.5 not 8-AN so if you want 8-AN you will get an M14 x 1.5 to 8-AN male union
    - No laser cutting of a baffling plate. I have CNC'ed it into the plate that gets wedged to the engine block.
    HTH

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  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Originally posted by JuizeR
    How to order?
    send over an email : iabed@iabedindustries.com
    Last edited by Wizard-of-OD; 15 July 2016, 08:37.

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  • JuizeR
    replied
    How to order?

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  • mac2226
    replied
    Originally posted by Wizard-of-OD
    UPDATE : JULY 5TH 2016:

    Ignoring Martin for now , this is Revision 4 of the base and REV01 of the puck.
    On the CNC tonight is Revision 5 of the base and REV02 of the puck.

    I tried to make a base specific to certain codes but that proved to be pointless so what we have done is add a 0.005" step so basically you give the base a decent dead blow until it stops. I would almost recommend epoxy of some sort considering the OEM is a tan can and basically deforms to the block. Of course if you are satisfied with your hammering abilities then you won't need epoxy.

    It goes without saying that I am humbly sorry for the insane wait time on this but anyone who has ever purchased a machine part from me will know that I don't ship garbage. Id rather you be pissed @ the wait time than be pissed at the product.

    The puck itself is seeing a revision as we are stepping down to an AN-12 . AN-12 has more common sizes available and even has an AN-12 to 1.25" barb (in stock).
    The Meziere unit has the same size hex on it as the AN-16's on the AN-12's which means we wont have to make any changes to that operation (which is good).


    I will have return to AN-16's (or use them) depending on what Meziere says.

    I will also be making the arrow more pronounced so as to ensure what direction is up

    Without further explanation here is the pictures of what it looks likes. You can get a decent amount of steel wool in there to help with the catch can.

    This is with a slight tap with the rubber hammer:


    The puck installed which has an o-ring on the puck face that meets the block plate . (can use alot of steel wool in there)


    With the fitting installed:


    and one more picture for good measure:


    As of right now this is the list:


    I have 50 being made over the course of the next 2 days. Whoever asked or wanted an additional 1 , now is the time as I won't be making more of these for a LONG time.
    Hi issam could I have another please

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  • ringbearer
    replied
    Well done sir!

    Leave a comment:


  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    UPDATE : JULY 5TH 2016:

    Ignoring Martin for now , this is Revision 4 of the base and REV01 of the puck.
    On the CNC tonight is Revision 5 of the base and REV02 of the puck.

    I tried to make a base specific to certain codes but that proved to be pointless so what we have done is add a 0.005" step so basically you give the base a decent dead blow until it stops. I would almost recommend epoxy of some sort considering the OEM is a tan can and basically deforms to the block. Of course if you are satisfied with your hammering abilities then you won't need epoxy.

    It goes without saying that I am humbly sorry for the insane wait time on this but anyone who has ever purchased a machine part from me will know that I don't ship garbage. Id rather you be pissed @ the wait time than be pissed at the product.

    The puck itself is seeing a revision as we are stepping down to an AN-12 . AN-12 has more common sizes available and even has an AN-12 to 1.25" barb (in stock).
    The Meziere unit has the same size hex on it as the AN-16's on the AN-12's which means we wont have to make any changes to that operation (which is good).


    I will have return to AN-16's (or use them) depending on what Meziere says.

    I will also be making the arrow more pronounced so as to ensure what direction is up

    Without further explanation here is the pictures of what it looks likes. You can get a decent amount of steel wool in there to help with the catch can.

    This is with a slight tap with the rubber hammer:


    The puck installed which has an o-ring on the puck face that meets the block plate . (can use alot of steel wool in there)


    With the fitting installed:


    and one more picture for good measure:


    As of right now this is the list:
    Originally posted by Wizard-of-OD
    1. Wizard-of-OD - PAID
    2. Wizard-of-OD - PAID
    3. Wizard-of-OD - PAID
    4. Daniel Terre - PAID
    5. JSOL - PAID
    6. Jelle.. - PAID
    7. EFI EXPRESS - PAID
    8. EFI EXPRESS - PAID
    9. EFI EXPRESS - PAID
    10. EFI EXPRESS - PAID
    11. EFI EXPRESS - PAID
    12. Henkjan - PAID
    13. Henkjan - PAID
    14. Henkjan - PAID
    15. Henkjan - PAID
    16. Henkjan - PAID
    17. Henkjan - PAID
    18. Jukkis - PAID
    19. Tonks4x4 - PAID
    20. Tonks4x4 - PAID
    21. Tonks4x4 - PAID
    22. Tonks4x4 - PAID
    23. Tonks4x4 - PAID
    24. fbatwork - PAID
    25. fbatwork - PAID
    26. Cypres83 - PAID
    27. orignalS60 - PAID
    I have 50 being made over the course of the next 2 days. Whoever asked or wanted an additional 1 , now is the time as I won't be making more of these for a LONG time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wizard-of-OD
    replied
    Originally posted by martinjs
    I haven't ordered one.
    So I am guessing you are waiting ?

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  • martinjs
    replied
    I haven't ordered one.

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