A web version with photos will appear tonight or tomorrow with some luck.
First of all, this job is pretty straight-forward as far as S2 maintenance goes, but there is limited access to some clips and you can reckon on skinning a few knuckles when wrestling some hoses on and off the car. The job is easier if you remove the bumper and intercooler, but this is mandatory on the air conditioning equipped cars because of the ludicrous positioning of the compressor which blocks access to some clips.
What follows is an exhaustive description of the task which makes it appear a lot more complex than reality, but I figured this approach would be appreciated by those who don’t have much experience in dismantling an S2.
Tools required are as follows –
10mm spanner or socket
13mm spanner or socket
Torx-headed sockets or wrenches
Cross-headed screwdrivers
Flat-headed screwdrivers
6mm & 7mm sockets can speed up clip removal
Allen key (6 or 7mm from memory) or hex socket (for intercooler bracket)
A second pair of hands is recommended if you need to remove the front bumper, but it can be done alone if you are careful and know the tricks. Reckon on two to four hours for this depending on your experience, luck (with anything seized) and how much time you spend cleaning, photographing or checking other things along the way.
As a key to some of the abbreviations used in the descriptions below, please refer to this list in the first instance:
A/C = Air conditioning
IC = Intercooler
IM = Inlet Manifold
MAF = Mass Air Flow (meter)
PP = Pressure Pipe
TBV = Throttle Bypass Valve (aka DV = Diverter Valve)
WGFV = Wastegate Frequency Valve
1. Jack up the car and secure it safely on axle stands – you will need to get access underneath the car for this job.
2. Remove the front undertray as follows:
- Remove 10mm nuts (one each side) securing the undertray to each inner wing
- Unlock retaining pins to each inner wing with a stubby flat screwdriver
- Unlock three retaining screws on rearmost edge of undertray
- Prise out the hefty clip at the front of the undertray where it connects to the bumper. Do this carefully with a suitably blunt but rigid instrument as its quite a strongly sprung clip.
3. If the car is not equipped with air conditioning (A/C) then you can probably skip to step #5, but you may find it easier to complete steps #3 and #4 to improve access even further on a non air conditioned S2. If A/C equipped, remove the front bumper as follows:
- Remove TORX headed bolts (one each side) securing bumper to the inner wing
- Remove the screws securing indicators to the bumper and disconnect wiring
- Remove the screws securing the foglamps to the bumper. These can be very rusty (due to poor material choice by Herr Audi) so be careful not to destroy them or have a plan to replace them afterwards. Disconnect wiring for the foglamps and set them to one side safely with the indicators.
- Remove 13mm bolts (two each side) for the bumper bracket that are exposed after removal of the foglamps
- It feels like the bumper wants to fall off now but it is now necessary to remove the hose into the T-piece for the headlamp washer jets.
- Removal of the bumper is much easier with two pairs of hands, teasing it carefully past the inner wing guard on each side, so seek the help of a friend, spouse, child or neighbour if you fear of doing any damage to the bumper by removing it yourself !
4. If A/C equipped, then remove the intercooler (IC) as follows:
- Remove hose entering the IC on right side of car (UK drivers side)
- Remove allen-headed bolt on left side of IC
- Remove two 13mm bolts holding IC to front cross-member. These have captive nuts behind the bracket which can break free if you are unlucky (like me) and cause much delay - access to them is frustrating and limited. Be careful and use WD40 to help free them first if in any doubt.
5. Remove the three 13mm bolts that secure the pressure pipe (PP) to the exhaust side of the cylinder head.
6. Remove the idle switch damper on the throttle body – note these are quite soft Torx headed screws that can be easily damaged if roughly handled. Set the damper and its screws safely to one side.
7. Remove the three hose clips on the hose which connects the pressure pipe to the throttle body. One of these connects to a link pipe into the idle stabiliser valve which needs a good wiggle to release it.
8. At the other end of the pressure pipe, remove the clip securing the hose from the intercooler.
9. Separate the pressure pipe (PP) from the hoses at each end, taking note that you will have to carefully clean any gluey sealant at the throttle body end which may have been used in the factory. Note you may find the inside of the PP to be a little oily – this is a sad but normal side-effect of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system fitted to the S2 engine. If you want to keep your shiny new Samco hoses clean on the inside, then fit an air/oil separator and breather system which does not permit oil vapour (and blow by gasses) to enter the intact tract. There will be an entire chapter of the website dedicated to that little subject.
10. Remove the remaining clip and the angled hose which connects the IC to the PP.
11. Remove the right (UK drivers) side headlamp as follows. Special care should be taken if doing this with the bumper still attached (with non A/C equipped cars) so that it is not scratched when removing the headlight unit:
- Remove two upper x-headed screws
- Remove the little x-headed screw which secures the ‘hockey stick’ trim below the lamp and pop it out from the outer edge – carefully.
- Remove the two x-headed screws underneath the lamp which are exposed when the trim piece is removed.
- Unplug the two wiring connectors (and any HID wires if applicable) and leave the lamp safely to one side.
12. Remove the upper and lower plastic flaps behind the missing headlamp to expose the plumbing and hoses clips for the TBV and WGFV.
13. Remove all clips for MAF hose connections – noting the fitment of everything in case of any doubt. These clips will separate the following items from the hose attached to the MAF:
- Breather hose to cylinder head / crankcase vent
- TBV
- WGFV
14. Undo the remaining clips on the MAF hose where it connects to the turbo inlet and MAF to remove this hose.
15. Remove the remaining clip for the hose connecting the TBV to the turbo outlet hose. There is no need to disconnect the narrow guage (4mm ID) control hose to the TBV unless it is frayed or you are replacing the TBV.
16. Remove the last clip which secures the output hose from the turbo. Before removing this hose, be sure to take note of how this hose links over a metal hook on the chassis up towards the TBV. This one piece factory hose is replaced by a two-piece hose from Samco.
17. Using the original turbo outlet hose as a guideline (on the bench), loosely align the two Samco hoses with the supplied 25mm alloy hose coupler and clips so that you have the correct orientation. Don’t fully tighten this until you have it all lined up in the car. Just make sure the hose clips are in a position to be accessible when fitted.
18. Refitting is essentially the reversal of removal with these notes and tips to keep in mind:
- Don’t rush and double check all fixings. One forgotten clip could result in a hose blowing off which will have you nursing the car home with severe breathing difficulties
- Locate the clips onto the hoses in a suitable position before fitting and orient the clips for easiest access when fitted to the car
- Do NOT fully tighten any clips until absolutely sure the hose is securely sited
- On A/C equipped cars do not be tempted to refit the IC or bumper until the very end
- Carefully check all 4mm and 8mm control hoses around the TBV and WGFV for damage – replace anything that appears frayed.
- It is normal to have a bit of juggling with the positioning of the pressure pipe (PP) onto its brackets as the Samco hoses are stiffer than factory ones. Get that nicely snugged down before clamping up the hose clips on the PP. With patience it fits up a treat.
- There is a bit of movement in the standard S2 airbox so a little positioning is needed to nicely mount the turbo inlet hose onto the MAF.
Good luck & Enjoy !
Cheers,
Paul
First of all, this job is pretty straight-forward as far as S2 maintenance goes, but there is limited access to some clips and you can reckon on skinning a few knuckles when wrestling some hoses on and off the car. The job is easier if you remove the bumper and intercooler, but this is mandatory on the air conditioning equipped cars because of the ludicrous positioning of the compressor which blocks access to some clips.
What follows is an exhaustive description of the task which makes it appear a lot more complex than reality, but I figured this approach would be appreciated by those who don’t have much experience in dismantling an S2.
Tools required are as follows –
10mm spanner or socket
13mm spanner or socket
Torx-headed sockets or wrenches
Cross-headed screwdrivers
Flat-headed screwdrivers
6mm & 7mm sockets can speed up clip removal
Allen key (6 or 7mm from memory) or hex socket (for intercooler bracket)
A second pair of hands is recommended if you need to remove the front bumper, but it can be done alone if you are careful and know the tricks. Reckon on two to four hours for this depending on your experience, luck (with anything seized) and how much time you spend cleaning, photographing or checking other things along the way.
As a key to some of the abbreviations used in the descriptions below, please refer to this list in the first instance:
A/C = Air conditioning
IC = Intercooler
IM = Inlet Manifold
MAF = Mass Air Flow (meter)
PP = Pressure Pipe
TBV = Throttle Bypass Valve (aka DV = Diverter Valve)
WGFV = Wastegate Frequency Valve
1. Jack up the car and secure it safely on axle stands – you will need to get access underneath the car for this job.
2. Remove the front undertray as follows:
- Remove 10mm nuts (one each side) securing the undertray to each inner wing
- Unlock retaining pins to each inner wing with a stubby flat screwdriver
- Unlock three retaining screws on rearmost edge of undertray
- Prise out the hefty clip at the front of the undertray where it connects to the bumper. Do this carefully with a suitably blunt but rigid instrument as its quite a strongly sprung clip.
3. If the car is not equipped with air conditioning (A/C) then you can probably skip to step #5, but you may find it easier to complete steps #3 and #4 to improve access even further on a non air conditioned S2. If A/C equipped, remove the front bumper as follows:
- Remove TORX headed bolts (one each side) securing bumper to the inner wing
- Remove the screws securing indicators to the bumper and disconnect wiring
- Remove the screws securing the foglamps to the bumper. These can be very rusty (due to poor material choice by Herr Audi) so be careful not to destroy them or have a plan to replace them afterwards. Disconnect wiring for the foglamps and set them to one side safely with the indicators.
- Remove 13mm bolts (two each side) for the bumper bracket that are exposed after removal of the foglamps
- It feels like the bumper wants to fall off now but it is now necessary to remove the hose into the T-piece for the headlamp washer jets.
- Removal of the bumper is much easier with two pairs of hands, teasing it carefully past the inner wing guard on each side, so seek the help of a friend, spouse, child or neighbour if you fear of doing any damage to the bumper by removing it yourself !
4. If A/C equipped, then remove the intercooler (IC) as follows:
- Remove hose entering the IC on right side of car (UK drivers side)
- Remove allen-headed bolt on left side of IC
- Remove two 13mm bolts holding IC to front cross-member. These have captive nuts behind the bracket which can break free if you are unlucky (like me) and cause much delay - access to them is frustrating and limited. Be careful and use WD40 to help free them first if in any doubt.
5. Remove the three 13mm bolts that secure the pressure pipe (PP) to the exhaust side of the cylinder head.
6. Remove the idle switch damper on the throttle body – note these are quite soft Torx headed screws that can be easily damaged if roughly handled. Set the damper and its screws safely to one side.
7. Remove the three hose clips on the hose which connects the pressure pipe to the throttle body. One of these connects to a link pipe into the idle stabiliser valve which needs a good wiggle to release it.
8. At the other end of the pressure pipe, remove the clip securing the hose from the intercooler.
9. Separate the pressure pipe (PP) from the hoses at each end, taking note that you will have to carefully clean any gluey sealant at the throttle body end which may have been used in the factory. Note you may find the inside of the PP to be a little oily – this is a sad but normal side-effect of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system fitted to the S2 engine. If you want to keep your shiny new Samco hoses clean on the inside, then fit an air/oil separator and breather system which does not permit oil vapour (and blow by gasses) to enter the intact tract. There will be an entire chapter of the website dedicated to that little subject.
10. Remove the remaining clip and the angled hose which connects the IC to the PP.
11. Remove the right (UK drivers) side headlamp as follows. Special care should be taken if doing this with the bumper still attached (with non A/C equipped cars) so that it is not scratched when removing the headlight unit:
- Remove two upper x-headed screws
- Remove the little x-headed screw which secures the ‘hockey stick’ trim below the lamp and pop it out from the outer edge – carefully.
- Remove the two x-headed screws underneath the lamp which are exposed when the trim piece is removed.
- Unplug the two wiring connectors (and any HID wires if applicable) and leave the lamp safely to one side.
12. Remove the upper and lower plastic flaps behind the missing headlamp to expose the plumbing and hoses clips for the TBV and WGFV.
13. Remove all clips for MAF hose connections – noting the fitment of everything in case of any doubt. These clips will separate the following items from the hose attached to the MAF:
- Breather hose to cylinder head / crankcase vent
- TBV
- WGFV
14. Undo the remaining clips on the MAF hose where it connects to the turbo inlet and MAF to remove this hose.
15. Remove the remaining clip for the hose connecting the TBV to the turbo outlet hose. There is no need to disconnect the narrow guage (4mm ID) control hose to the TBV unless it is frayed or you are replacing the TBV.
16. Remove the last clip which secures the output hose from the turbo. Before removing this hose, be sure to take note of how this hose links over a metal hook on the chassis up towards the TBV. This one piece factory hose is replaced by a two-piece hose from Samco.
17. Using the original turbo outlet hose as a guideline (on the bench), loosely align the two Samco hoses with the supplied 25mm alloy hose coupler and clips so that you have the correct orientation. Don’t fully tighten this until you have it all lined up in the car. Just make sure the hose clips are in a position to be accessible when fitted.
18. Refitting is essentially the reversal of removal with these notes and tips to keep in mind:
- Don’t rush and double check all fixings. One forgotten clip could result in a hose blowing off which will have you nursing the car home with severe breathing difficulties
- Locate the clips onto the hoses in a suitable position before fitting and orient the clips for easiest access when fitted to the car
- Do NOT fully tighten any clips until absolutely sure the hose is securely sited
- On A/C equipped cars do not be tempted to refit the IC or bumper until the very end
- Carefully check all 4mm and 8mm control hoses around the TBV and WGFV for damage – replace anything that appears frayed.
- It is normal to have a bit of juggling with the positioning of the pressure pipe (PP) onto its brackets as the Samco hoses are stiffer than factory ones. Get that nicely snugged down before clamping up the hose clips on the PP. With patience it fits up a treat.
- There is a bit of movement in the standard S2 airbox so a little positioning is needed to nicely mount the turbo inlet hose onto the MAF.
Good luck & Enjoy !
Cheers,
Paul
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