Originally posted by Bowie69
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ABY Steering Rack Removal Guide
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Used a "glidehammer" or what its called and hammer and swearing. A lot of swearing, and cigarettes.. and violence. A lot of .. violence.
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Correct, you must remove the bolt entirely to have a chance of removing -its a secondary safety thing... if I comes off you are likely to have a crash....
That said, the shaft was firmly locked on even without the bolt!
Lever bars, punches and a hammer, and plenty of lube.Last edited by Bowie69; 7 November 2021, 12:03.
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That spline is a nightmare, mine was stuck fast.
Then, I think if I remember right, the bolt sits in a groove in the shaft so even when it’s loose it doesn’t come off. That had me going.. I did mine with engine in place too, not the sort of job you want to do twice!
I think this was when I chopped a hole in the battery tray to get to the rack and made up my mind to relocate the battery under the rear seat.
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Gosh, when I did mine earlier this year it was VERY hard to get out even with gearbox remov e d.
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So got it out in the end, was struggling so hard to get a part off (red circle). Even after the bolt/nut was loose and out it still was sitting hard.
Removed it, pushed the sealing inside the cabin and then could just wiggle the whole unit out. What a mess
And this is with everything out of the car
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Nightmare on a RHD 3B, I seem to remember that was the point I decided my battery was going under the back seat..
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When I did a rack on my rhd, it has to be lifted upwards into the engine bay. it doesn't fit out through the track rod hole.
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Bumping an old thread, anyone done this on LHD car?
How do you get it out at all? I cant get it out from the "footwell" and out from the wheel arch. Its no space in either place lol.
Not sure how to "wiggle it out" from part 24 in picture above.
I have everything else out atm
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I'll try to do step by step for you. I take it it is RHD?
Step 1
Turn steering to access Bolts (5) and nuts (10) remove with extension bar and spanner.
Step 2 Undo Nuts (11) and remove retainer (20)
Step 3 Remove Allan bolts (25)
Step 4 Remove two nuts that holds the rack to item (2)
Step 5 Remove Drivers under dash cover.
Step 6 Remove pinch bolt from bottom of drivers steering column
Step 7 Spread the clamp carfully a little and release the rack (this bit is easier said than done when your squashed in the footwell.
Step 8 Remove the banjo's (15) catch the copper washers
Step 9 Wiggle the rack out of it's current location.
HTH
If I have missed anything someone will be along to point it out.
In honesty it took 2 of us nearly 3 hours start to finishAttached Files
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Yes I have done it. and without removing too much stuff too.
You will need two people to seperate the rack from the column and the same to refit.
Not a nice job but can deff be done without the engine out.
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Originally posted by mouse View PostThe manual in my first post says the same. . (the part about the wheel well anyway)
Of course I work on ur-quattros primarily, and they're getting old. So I've invested in a set of sockets - I forget the name, but it's something like "Grip-all") that can be hammered on to reluctant or rounded bolts. They're not the branded "Grip-Tite" ones, but the principle is the same.
I've used one on 10V inlet manifold screws as well.
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Originally posted by Phil Payne View PostI've done it on an ur-quattro 20V. I seem to remember it was fairly simple - comes out through the right wheel well.Attached Files
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