RS2 Conversion - What to replace?

[RustyNut]

Hi All,

Just about to have the Sedan converted to RS2 spec and need to make sure i'm covering all the right bases whilst the engine is out. Question is, what parts should I replace and what should I leave? The engine has done just over 70k miles, has no known issues, the clutch is strong, has had a replacement ps pump fitted (the bay is suffering from the usual ps pump seal failure I.e fluid in most places and covered in general road crud..) and will have the block, Inlet Manifold, cam and coil covers cleaned and refreshed.

The parts I have got so far are:

RS2 turbo - OEM Refurbished
Wagner Evo Em
RS2 Injectors
RS2 Inlet Manifold
3" Downpipe - The GB one
Full set of Black Samco Boost and Water hoses
Full Gasket set.
Cam Position Sensor

The parts I still need:

Fuel Pump - 044 Bosch
Exhaust
Head studs - Need these quick if anyone has a set.

The parts i'm not sure if I should replace:

Water pump
Oil pump
Sensors - (I've got a CPS to fit)
Seals - Which ones?

Would appreciate any input on this bearing in mind i won't be doing any bottom end work or balancing.

The intention is to basically get the engine bay looking spot on and clean and to release a bit of the engine's potential with a standard RS2 upgrade without going mental and keeping as much OEM'ness as I can.

Cheers

Russ

[Rusty]

Front and rear crank seals, upgrade the pressure plate to be safe, do the water pump, lower pulley with a billet one, cambelt, tensioner, crank bolt, clutch release bearing too. Could go single mass flywheel too, it's a nice retrograde...

Injectors, seats and crank sensor are all here for you.

Unless you're planning on going mad, head bolts should be fine with rs2 spec and can always be swapped out at a later date.

[Rusty]

Cam sensor is the only one that needs changing when you e got access, needs the cam pulley removing though, so get a spare woodruf key and bolt, they're cheap enough from Audi. All the other sensors can be changed in situ IIRC

[UrS4boy]

Cylinder Head Bolt PN and Tightening Procedure

..Unless you're planning on going mad, head bolts should be fine with rs2 spec and can always be swapped out at a later date.

And by that you mean, new head bolts since they are stretch bolts and it is unwise to reuse them. PN 034103385C, twelve (12) required. (Item 11):

[RustyNut]

Nice one chaps. Appreciate the input and that diagram will be printed and used for sure! I'll add those bits to the list and check for prices and availability on Monday. Andy, any idea (even roughly) what each of the parts you suggested will cost? Would like to go single mass but need to keep the spend under control. I've only got a week to source the parts too (she goes in next Saturday). Also, where would I get a billet lower pulley from? Not seen this mentioned as an upgrade part tbh so never even considered it to be an important replacement part or upgrade? I take it the OEM studs are cheaper than ARP's? Would prefer to go ARP now but the GB hasn't kicked off yet and no one has stock of them in this country so will have to go for the OEM ones for now..

[irishs2]

The victor head bolts should be more cost effective than audi bolts , especially if you are going to be replacing them later on.
I will post the part number from my set in the morning.

[LHD_Kid]

I have a spare billet lower pulley (new and never fitted), but deffo can't get it to you for today!

If it's something you can fit a little later in the build, please let me know.

Chris



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[Error404]

Febi make the head bolts too

[irishs2]

VICTOR REINZ 14-32049-01
Head bolts.

About 1/3 the price of the audi dealer headbolts. @ approx 50 euro for the set

[RustyNut]

VICTOR REINZ 14-32049-01
Head bolts.

About 1/3 the price of the audi dealer headbolts. @ approx 50 euro for the set

Where did you get them from? The car doesn't go in until next Saturday so got a week to source. Is the PN on the box for a full set of the correct bolts?

[RustyNut]

I have a spare billet lower pulley (new and never fitted), but deffo can't get it to you for today!

If it's something you can fit a little later in the build, please let me know.

Chris



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Hi Chris,

Car doesn't go in until next Saturday. If it's for sale can you PM me the details. Cheers

[irishs2]

Where did you get them from? The car doesn't go in until next Saturday so got a week to source. Is the PN on the box for a full set of the correct bolts?

Yep full set of bolts. I got them from my engine rebuilder, I would think most motor factors can get victor reinz stuff, like gasket sets etc.

[Rusty]

And where did I say reuse the old ones, Dave

Russ, I have a billet crank pulley here, so get LHD's and I'll have it in exchange. I have a lightened SM FW on the way, clutch is 350-550 euros for a SRE, needs new dowels and bellhousing bolts and the FW needs to be balanced to your old DM FW but it'll transform the car.

Change the engine mounts too.

[LHD_Kid]

Russ, I have a billet crank pulley here, so get LHD's and I'll have it in exchange.

Hi mate,

Was yours one made by VolcanoRS? If so, quality is good and the same as mine

It's the time that is the issue, so if he can use yours and mine replaces yours.. job's a good'un

PM on it's way to Rustynut...

Chris

[Rusty]

The very same.

Russ, I also have a cam wodruff key and bolt that you can have on exchange.

I'm looking at buying a clutch from Germany, so we might be able to combine postage.

Clutch release bearing is about £40.

Front and rear seals aare about £30 total, check out the Victor Reinz part number thread.

New FW bolts are required, they're about £20.

If you go SM FW, you'll need a new needle bearing for the FW centre, they're about £30.

The SM conversion thread has all the bolt and dowel part numbers, or find someone breaking a normal 5 pot and get them to take them off.

You may also want to replace the water pipe that runs along the side of the block on the IM side, as these rust. If yours is in OK condition, then I'll have it off you and you can get a shiny new one that you can polish or somit