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If all 16 studs remain after removing the manifold i won't attempt to change the studs.
If they snap with the 25nm torque of the refitting for sure they would have snapped trying to remove them.
btdt with the 30+ 7a heads that have passed through me and spink.
i used the original studs on mine. manifold has been off replaced witgh tubes twice and taken off/on a couple of extra times. no issues.
if they are going, its gonna be straight away for me.
the shorter studs usually have a bit of the manifold in the way. the tubes do but if you put the nut on straight away before the mainfold is seated ie off the head a little it enables the normal studs to be used with the tubes. usually its you cant get the nut on off with the manifold fully in position. not 100% if this is the case on the rs2 mani though
Turbo back from Turboexchange in Durban South Africa.
It looks like a new turbo, it required a new backplate and a bush/trust repair kit other than that the turbo they said is perfect.
When I dropped off the turbo I gave them two turbine shafts both from an RS2 and asked them to pick which one to use. The tech pointed out that although they are effectivly the same turbine wheel they have a small differance.
The older turbine blade has a thin edge at the center of the wheel, the newer blade is a bit thicker.
He said the thiner blade runs at a slower rpm for the same exhaust gas flow, he said he estimated the differance to be about 10% less RPM than the thicker blade design.
He basically said the newer thicker blade design increases RPM wheel speed!!!! its a revised/newer turbine wheel.
Don't forget the turbo to manifold gasket, and the oil and water feed gaskets, They are
sold separately. It is not easy to get to all the manifold studs. You will need a good socket set with a wobbly and a bent spanner as shown above. Good luck
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