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Depending on how you look at things, this may be a bargain or a liability! It was registered in March '81, in metallic silver. Engine is seized solid, has not been run since '89. Fuel in tank has DEFINITELY gone off, smells like paint. Bodywork is sound, though, as has been stored in a barn .
The previous owner reckons it was running before it was laid up 8 years ago, (has 53k on the clock). I can only imagine it seized up due to lack of use. If so, I may be able to free it up this weekend after removing the cylinder and pouring duckoil into the cylinders. Camshaft is free, as I have removed the belt and rotated it to and fro.
No need to remove the cylinder head, a good dose of oil down through the plugs (with plugs removed!!!) and allowed to seap will help. Don't worry about the belt being off as the WR engine is not an interference engine.
What do you plan to do with her?
I would be interested...
This is definitely not as good as I first thought. Problems so far are:
MECHANICAL
Engine won't turn
Rear differential seal leaking (o/s)
Differential lock cable rusted through (Rear)
Steering rack gaiter perished
Brake lines corroded (Not leaking, but unlikely to pass MOT)
Track rod end boot perished (n/s)
Suspect clutch slave cylinder defective. (Managed to forced pedal down, but it won't return)
Exhaust rear box rotten (Has burst open at seam)
Caliper seized (o/s/r)
BODYWORK
At first glance, all seams ok, but have just discovered some major corrosion.
Rear arches have seperated from wheel tubs
Fuel tank has corrosion along lower seam - can't tell if it leaks, as there is hardly any fuel in it.
Small rust patch at bottom of front screen (o/s)
Corrosion around boot hinge (on bodywork)
Little rust on trailing edge of sunroof, seal completely weathered.
ELECTRICAL
Front wipers very slow in operation
Electric window not working (o/s)
All 4 headlamps corroded internally
As far as projects go, if done properly, it could cost more than the car is worth. Most of the highlighted problems sound worse than they really are, apart from the rear arches. Not a bodywork man myself, all depends if there is enough sound metal to weld onto without adding new panels. Rest of bodwork is quite sound. No point removing the cylinder head as Corey said. Right now I'm going to store it in my carport till I decide if it is worth tackling. Haven't got time to tackle the major bits at the mo.
The main issue is the bodywork, the rear boot hinge is no great surprise, Audi primered everything up, assembled the boot hinges to the body and then painted them!!!
The base of the screen rust will mean the drain holes under the screen will be blocked and potentially let water run down onto the ecu or fuse box (depending on which side). Which will mean a glass out job.
Mechanically no real problem accept the rear calipers are now made from unobtainium however you can replace with the later items and this does give the benefit of a better handbrake.
Have fun with the slave cylinder though it is possible to replace incitu
If the steering gaiters are gone
Who gives a sod what it is worth, it is worth saving!
I suppose it is worth saving, just not keen on starting now, got cars in my garage and don't fancy doing all that work in the open, too damn cold! Will wait till it gets warmer.
RHD, but it has been converted from LHD I suspect - several parts in the engine bay don't add up, like the clutch fluid reservoir is shared with the brake system.
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